I thought I would share this with you all as some might be interested.
A couple of weeks ago I was baking a pizza for movie night when I heard a loud BRRAZZP from the electric range. I checked things out and there was no ongoing fire, smoke, or other obvious problem, so I finished the pizza and we watched the movie. After that the oven was slow to heat up so I tore things down and found that the hidden oven element had shorted and zippered.
I ordered a new element for about $50 online, installed it, and did an operational check on the circuit. There should have been 240VAC across the element with the oven on, but the meter showed zero. The next place to look was the control relay on the power board. I did a visual check of the power board and saw nothing obvious, so I pulled the board from its mounting and found that the trace that provided power to the control relay had blown when the heater element went, and the heat had damaged an adjacent trace.
I checked the online parts site and the new power board is a $200 part, so I decided to repair what I had. I did an operational check on the relay contacts and they seemed to be working fine, so I rebuilt the blown and damaged traces using sheet copper.
After the repair I did another operational test and it showed power to and through the relay and the correct 240VAC drop across the heater. The tests showed things were working normally so I did a cycle test on the oven and it preheated in the normal amount of time. For about an hour’s time and some thinking, I saved over $200 on parts and likely twice that if I had called the repair tech.
I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought.
Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just
buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
Congrats on the motor! I think you’ll like it.
I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers. 160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.
Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor. Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to
get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius)
says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe. I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho. Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
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I thought I would share this with you all as some might be interested.
A couple of weeks ago I was baking a pizza for movie night when I heard a loud BRRAZZP from the electric range. I checked things out and there was no ongoing fire, smoke, or other obvious problem, so I finished the pizza and we watched the movie. After that the oven was slow to heat up so I tore things down and found that the hidden oven element had shorted and zippered.
I ordered a new element for about $50 online, installed it, and did an operational check on the circuit. There should have been 240VAC across the element with the oven on, but the meter showed zero. The next place to look was the control relay on the power board. I did a visual check of the power board and saw nothing obvious, so I pulled the board from its mounting and found that the trace that provided power to the control relay had blown when the heater element went, and the heat had damaged an adjacent trace.
I checked the online parts site and the new power board is a $200 part, so I decided to repair what I had. I did an operational check on the relay contacts and they seemed to be working fine, so I rebuilt the blown and damaged traces using sheet copper.
After the repair I did another operational test and it showed power to and through the relay and the correct 240VAC drop across the heater. The tests showed things were working normally so I did a cycle test on the oven and it preheated in the normal amount of time. For about an hour’s time and some thinking, I saved over $200 on parts and likely twice that if I had called the repair tech.
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