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snow shoes


bucketmouth64

Question

Any snow shoers out there? I am interested in trying this out, but need help in deciphering all the different types of snow shoes out in the market. What style of binding should I look for? What material of shoe should I look at? I don't want to break the bank in buying a pair since this would be my first time. I've seen a lot on sale from the old fashion shoe, aluminum tubular shoes, and I've been told about an i-beam type of shoe that the military uses. Any info. good or bad would be appreciated. What are the best boots to use with these?

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The best all-around sport/utility shoes on the market, IMO, are the aluminum shoes with the solid neoprene decks. Several different brands out there, and they all come with the pivoting binding/boot mounts integral to the snowshoes and have toe cleats built in for traction on crust/slopes.

I'm old school. Still using the rawhide/ash Michigan style, with the Bob Maki bindings, but if I was buying new right now I'd get a pair of the aluminum/neoprenes from Atlas, Sherpa or one of the other top companies. The new style are more efficient at flotation, so they tend to run smaller per body weight than the old styles.

I'd actually suggest you rent a pair first and try them out. Should be able to find a rental outlet somewhere in the TC that offers snowshoes. You should also get a pair of ski poles. For those starting out, there is a balance learning curve, and ski poles will help you out of many tricky situations until you learn how not to get into tricky situations on snowshoes. grin

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I have put a few miles on snowshoes. I had a pair of aluminum tube ones that broke after a couple of years. If you are breaking the trail go bigger than the rated weight. nothing worse than trying to lift the shoe up through a bunch of snow every step. as for bindings make sure your foot and pivot- you can lift your heal off the shoe- most new ones do. The ones i use now are the militry surplus with aftermarket bindings. the military are very good for powder. if you get on ice or steep slopes the ones with cleats will be better. on my aluminum tube shoes i actually had to grind down the cleats because they were a little too agressive and would cause me to trip once in a while.

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I have used both styles extensively. I have a beautiful pair of World War2 shoes (1944) that I have put many miles on. If I were going to pick them apart I would say the drawback of wooden shoes is durability. If I am out in the woods I have to be extra careful when going over logs and other obstacles. They are not by any means fragile but they do have their limits. Also going up and down steeper grades can bring on unexpected slips and slides. It makes for some good times. My bindings are the old school raw hide. So I need to pay attention and give certain care to them. Also the shoes themselves need to be varnished from time to time.

I also have a couple of pairs of the new school shoes. I have the Atlas and Tubbs. In the woods I can run circles around guys on the standard issue ash shoes. I can hop over logs, jump over windfalls and never give much thought to bending them. When going up and down hills you have no fear of tumbling or even spilling a drink (just saying). And I love the new binding that jus ratchet on. They are fast, comfortable, and very dependable.

Each type has their place. If you are ever in Forest Lake You can certainly give mine a try before you buy. I think the greatest part of snowshoeing is that it’s another way to get off the couch and enjoy the Minnesota winters. It’s simple to do, no special technique, or need of lessons. It’s a safe and healthy sport as long as you stay off snowmobile trails!

WS

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