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recent build


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cid_510-1.jpgcid_626.jpg

tried something different this time I injected some chartruese plastic worm dye into my epoxy and added some small red flake and applied over white thread

turned out pretty cool and didn't seem to affect hardening time or gloss at all

different having charteuese rod finish I need to get a digital camera again and stop wrecking them while outdoors sorry for crudeness of the cell picture but the glitter and dye pops in the sunlight

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WELL AS FAR AS THE ACTION THERE IS ANOTHER TUBLUAR BLANK UNDER IT SIMILAR TO A TELESCOPIC ROD ECEPT GLUED THERE FOR THATS WHY SUCH A LONG WINDING CHECK

I LIKE A SOFT TIP WITH A GOOD BACK BONE FOR PANFISH DOESENTY SEEM TO HINGE THE BLANK BUT BENDS WITH IT ONLY STIFFER

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Just wondering, I was talking to a guy who designed rods for a living at one time. He said a lot of these custom rods would use very little in the way of epoxy and the smallest guides allowable to reduce the effect on the action as much as possible.

I remember a I was using a TB rod at the time and said, "this rod would rock with some snake guides like a fly rod has." He said the double foot would distort the action terribly. Makes sense I guess.

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The portion closest to your hand is where weight affects the rod the least. Not that it doesn't affect it all, but the tip is where you really want to keep things to a minimum. Close to the tip the extra weight affects the weight, which in turn affects the speed and sensitivity of the rod.

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That is what I have been taught. The lighter the better and windings will affect the blank action. But, if it works the way you want it and it is different than the rest, all the better.

Has anyone tried using dry jig finish on a blank?. I was thinking florescent would be nice on an ice rod tip especially at night with a tip-up rig. Could cover it with epoxy for durability.

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