Catalpa Tree Trimming?

[311Hemi]

I have a large Catalpa tree in the back yard and one of the limbs is hanging over the neighbors yard and he asked if I minded him trimming the limb off. I don't mind if he does, I just want to make sure we do it properly because I like the tree. It's probably 4-6" in diameter. Ideally I would like to just trim it back at the truck, but wanted to see if any of you have experience on this. Also, is there a better time to trim than others.

Also, I would like to trim/prune a large mature maple in my front yard, can I do that now? I would not be doing more than 1/3 of the tree.

[Steve Foss]

Now is a pretty good time to trim deciduous trees because they still have almost all the growing season ahead of them to start healing over the cuts.

On the Catalpa, or any branch, I like to trim those size back to the trunk, since branches cut half way down look stubby and dumb to me. Easiest way is to cut about a foot out from the trunk first. First make an under cut 1/4 way through the branch. Then cut from above until the branch breaks off and falls. The do the same set of cuts in the same order right where the branch meets the trunk, but out an inch or so. The undercut keeps bark from tearing along the branch/trunk, which usually happens if you just make a top cut to trim. If you get right up flush with the trunk on your final cut(s), it's harder for the tree to heal the cut. That's why it's best to leave an inch or so of branch out from the trunk.

On the maple, I'm going to assume you are selectively pruning individual branches rather than taking off the whole top 1/3 of the tree. Now is a good time for selective pruning because the leaves have just come out and it's easier to see which branches are alive, which are dead, which are dying or otherwise weak, and so forth. Are you pruning to get rid of dead wood, or are you also taking branches away that grow across each other? A mature maple, even a healthy one, often has both dead/weak branches and cross-growth to remedy.

[Powerstroke]

Now is a great time to trim either of those trees. Not much to worry about with them.

[311Hemi]

Thanks guys! Trimming is done, now hopefully my wifes hostas make it with the additional sunlight they are getting!

[PEATMOSS]

Hostas actually do much better in the shade.

[311Hemi]

Yep, I was aware of that going into this. How's that saying go....It’s easier to ask forgiveness than to get permission?

She's fine with moving them if need be. We will see how they do. The yard looks much better now!!

[Steve Foss]

I have hostas that get full sun all morning until about 1 p.m. and then are completely shaded the rest of the day and they do wonderfully. I also have some in dappled light under deciduous trees doing really well, too. And the traditional full shade hosta garden as well.

Two places I avoid planting them are full, all-day sun locations and beds that are shaded all morning and get full sun in the hot afternoons and evenings of summer.

The ones that get morning full sun emerge sooner in spring because the soil warms there faster, but they also do require more water. Hemi's hosta, even if they are getting a LOT of new sun, probably would do OK because they are already established. Some wood chip or shredded wood bark mulch will help them, too, by retaining moisture and keeping the ground cooler in the hot summer.

Yeah, I'm a hosta fan.

[BoxMN]

A side note, but can you even kill a Catulpa tree without cutting it off at the base? Those things are tough. A wind storm knocked one over at our place, and just for heck of it, I left it sit there in dirt - it sprouted and started to grow from the pieceon ground and also where the branch (big) bent over from the main trunk. Tough trees for sure.

[Powerstroke]

Knocking a tree over will not kill it, unless there is a complete separation between trunk and roots. Even then, most trees will sprout from the base unless they are ground out.