Apple Trees

[Fins-n-feathers]

I am looking to get an apple tree for the yard where it would be out in the open. I live in Duluth, and I would like the apples to be on the sweet side for fresh eating and also to be good for pies. I might get two trees, so I need a couple different varieties. Any suggestions as to what kinds of trees I should get?

[hotrod1]

If i'm not mistaken, i believe you need a couple different varieties of apple trees to produce apples.

I have a Honeycrisp and a Sweetsixteen...they were planted about 3-4 years ago and only got about 4 or 5 apples per tree last year.

[KEN W]

Is Duluth in zone 3 or 4?

[fishermatt]

The area around Lake Superior shows as zone 4, but inland from the lake is all zone 3.

Has anyone has success growing Honeycrisp in zone 3? I planted 3 of them and they all croaked the first winter. The other variety I planted (can't think of the name) made it Ok.

[Dotch]

I don't have trees in that zone, but here are some suggestions & zone maps from the U of M:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1111.html

http://fruit.cfans.umn.edu/garden/applespears.htm

Get into zones 3a & 3b and it appears it separates the men from the boys significantly. I'm in zone 4a. We have a Haralson (good for cooking and I like baking pies, good for eating if you like tart apples), a Fireside (good eating apple, big though and will clean you out if you eat a whole one) and a Honeycrisp (newbie last year so no production yet).

[Fins-n-feathers]

Do the apples that bloom at different times of the year still have flowers at the same time to pollenate each other?

[Mcfin]

I have a Mackentosh(pie apple) and a Honey Crisp(eating apple). They produce well and I am pretty sure they will do well in Duluth.They also bloom at the same time.

[KEN W]

I use to live right along the ND/Man border and is definetly in zone 3.I had a Haralson,Red Baron,Sweet 16 and Honeycrisp.All produced apples for a number of years.

Since retireing and moving to the Fargo area which is zone 4A I now have a Zestar,Honey Crisp,Prairie Magic,and Honeygold.All have survived 2 winters here.They are just leafing out and 2 will have blossoms this year.I went with those 4 because they will ripen at a 1 week interval starting with Zestar the first week of Sept.Ending with Honeygold in early Oct.All 4 are classified as sweet apples.

[Dotch]

Added a SnowSweet today so will see how that goes. Looking at some pears too but will start another thread for that. Keep this up and we won't have any lawn left.

[zzammon]

I have two unknown variety and 1 fireside. They rippen about 3 weeks apart but blossom at the same time and pollonate each other.

[Pooh]

not sure of the type of apple tree i have, but seems to only produce every other year. it is more of an eating apple than a pie apple i can tell u that. not trying to steal anyones topic herem but why only every other year?

[no bait nate]

my folks had about 75 trees we cared for growing up and my favorites were Harelsons hands down. my mom always said there were for pies and such but i liked the tart flavor for eating. Honeycrisp are great for eating right off the tree also.

[Borch]

My favorite is the Honeygold followed closely by Fireside and Haroldson Apples. The Honeygolds are thin skinned, crisp and very sweet. Almost like candy. Downside is that they don't store well. I believe they are rated for zones 3-6.

[zzammon]

Pooh, My three trees produce a billion apples every other year too. I have heard that this starts to happen with older trees. I know mine are reaching 30 years of age. Any truth to this?

[Dotch]

We've seen it to some degree here but when we've had good rainfall early season and less later season, the apples thin themselves and it isn't as noticeable. I've heard others say this too and was curious as to why. This info may offer some explanation. Solving it sounds like a pain, even on 15 - 20 yr. old trees, to say nothing of 30 year old trees. From the U's Commercial Fruit Site:

"Both apple and pear trees will set abundant crops of fruit if conditions are good during bloom. Some of the fruitlets will drop in mid-June, but the tree may be left with more fruit than is optimal for fruit quality development. Heavy crops can also result in limb breakage, especially in younger trees. In addition, heavy crops can cause a phenomenon known as biennial bearing, in which a heavy crop is followed the next year by little or no crop. Fruit thinning can minimize biennial bearing.

Thin the crop within the first month after bloom occurs, when the fruits are still marble-sized (Figure 3). Aim for one fruit per cluster, or for truly optimal fruit quality, about eight inches between fruits on any branch. Leave more fruit on the outer portion of the tree and less in the shaded center, where it will not get good sunlight. Although it may be difficult to make yourself remove fruit, the quality of the apples or pears you will harvest in the fall will be greatly improved by thinning."