2 Cycle Oil.....

[BrdHunter01]

So I would like to know the real difference between the expensive oil and the cheap stuff? What is the "real" difference?

BTW: I don't want answers like: "I've used ____ oil for years, never had a problem"

I would like to know to "actual" difference, Ex: make-up, manufactoring/refining, ect. I would like real facts please.....

Thanks

[BobT]

I think the only way you'll get that answer is to obtain the manufacturer's "recipes" so-to-speak. They all claim to be the best so who will you turn to for the "real" answer?

[walleyewild]

Brdhunter,

I can tell you that cheap oil caused a catostrophic engine failure on an evenrude 85hp motor when I was young, caused me to miss half the summer of water skiing.

The mechanic attrbuted the motor blowup to poor burn of the bulk 2-cycle oil my dad was buying.

I have used premium oil in both of my boats and plan to switch the new motor to synthetic as soon as the break in is over.

THe Oil Man might be able to help you out, he is a site sponsor.

WW

[Phred52]

I'd 2nd asking the 'Oilman'. He sells Amsoil and he knows his product AND the competition! I'm sure he'll be able to answer your question. I'd presume you're talking premix oils, correct? Or do you have an oil injection system? I run both, on synthetic. But again, The Oilman should chime in here, he's the pro.

[BrdHunter01]

WW, How long ago was that? It seems now most brands have practically the same stuff....

I would like to know about premix and oil injection.... As I use both....

[tomfromblaine]

ya could always google it

[theoilman]

First of all, all are a combination of base lubricant plus additive packages, and both vary greatly between brands of lubricants.

With conventional petroleum lubes the base stock are a petroleum oil, fractionally distilled from crude oil. The crude oil has impurities in it - the cheap oils you buy have more impurities because they take shortcuts and leave too many of the bad things in. All petroleum based lubes will leave carbon behind which builds up in the cylinder.

Many of the newer 2-cycle oils are a blend of petroleum and synthetic, which are better than the cheap oils.

There are two or three base stocks to build a synthetic from, with a large difference in costs to make them. I do not have a list of which oil uses which to make it, and I doubt if you can find out much about most of them.

AMSOIL 2-cycle oils use di-ester base stocks (in both 2-cycle marine lubes) - made from chemically combining an alcohol with a fatty acid, both agricultural byproducts. By doing this you get an ashless oil that burns away clean and leaves no carbon behind.

The additives, I have no technical info to break any of them down. But there is a lot of difference between brands. The cheap ones will have lesser quality. Period!

Specific - Saber Outboard is for pre-mix outboards only. It is close brother to AMSOIL Saber Professional which many here on the forums use in their air-cooled 2-cycle augers. AMSOIL burns clean, leaves no carbon behind, smokeless or nearly smokeless, at least 65% less pollution than petroleum based lubes. It will reduce wear to make your engine last longer. Saber Outboard can be used as lean as 100-1 mix ratios.

AMSOIL HP Injector is designed for all 2-stroke injected outboards, carbureted, efi, dfi, and ... . HP Injector can be used as a pre-mix at 50-1.

(Complete technical info and 'buy here' are available at these links.)

[walleyewild]

WW, How long ago was that?

It was back in the early 70's, I don't quite remember when it happened I do remember that the pistons were quite damaged, pieces broken off...

Wasn't too much fun as I remember, and cost dad quite a bit of money to get repaired at the time.