fertilizer question

[Rip_Some_Lip]

I received the U of M analysis for the soil sample from my garden today. The results were: a fine soil texture, a PH of 7.1, organic matter of 6.3%, Phosphorus 72 ppm, and potassium of 300+. The only nutrient application recommended was 0.15 lbs/100 sq. ft. of Nitrogen. It also said a ratio of 33-0-0.

My question is if I can get a fertilizer with just nitrogen? And if so, how should I apply it? I have a garden that is approx. 550 sq. ft. in size. I assume I should till it in. I plan on tilling in some sand in the garden because it is pretty clayey and most of it is new and just got tilled up this year.

[LwnmwnMan2]

You should be able to go to a local feed mill in your area and get something close to that.

You don't have to have exactly 33-0-0, but a 30-0-10 would suffice. The numbers are a guideline, not an exact.

Also, the fertilizer will work its way into the soil, no different than if you were to fertilize grass.

If you wanted, you could throw it in when you plant the seed too (what my father does) but personally I would just spread it over the top once you're done planting.

[Powerstroke]

Yes you can buy straight Nitrogen, but usually its all fast-acting nitrogen. I would look for something that has a mix of slow-release in it. Less chance of burning and it will last longer. Not a bad sample. Many folks would love soil like that.

[BobT]

You should be able to go to a local feed mill in your area and get something close to that.

You don't have to have exactly 33-0-0, but a 30-0-10 would suffice. The numbers are a guideline, not an exact.

Also, the fertilizer will work its way into the soil, no different than if you were to fertilize grass.

If you wanted, you could throw it in when you plant the seed too (what my father does) but personally I would just spread it over the top once you're done planting.

With the little bit of farming experience I have, I have found that when spreading nitrogen, you don't really want to leave it on the surface any more than necessary as it will evaporate. Granular form may be less prone but I usually try to spread my fertilizer before I go over my fields the second time so the fertilizer is mixed with the soil.

Just a thought.

[LwnmwnMan2]

You're right Bob. Liquid you would want to get into the soil, granular it could go both ways.

[Rip_Some_Lip]

Thanks for the info guys. I work for a city and I talked with our horticulurist(sp?) and he said I should probably till in a little compost to get the organic number up a little too. he also said I wouldnt go wrong with a little potash also like a 33-0-10. Thanks again.

[Dotch]

From a guy who looks at literally 1000's of these soil test results per year, those are nice levels. Any farmer would be glad to have them. lawnmowingman is right about using a mix of slow release N for fertilizing especially the grass. Spreading a product such as urea (46-0-0) on top and not working it in does increase the potential for loss, especially when applying to a moist soil surface, the temp & humidity is high, and there's a lot of plant residue. Generally if it rains a 1/2" or more within a day or two after application, no incorporation needed. As far as the organic matter level, at 6.3% that's on the high end of what we typically see for a mineral soil in MN. Adding compost won't hurt anything though and may improve the tilth since as you say it has a fair amount of clay in it. Congrats and have fun with your project!

[BobT]

When I lived on the Iron Range I tilled an area for a garden. Anyone that has tried this will quickly learn that the soil up there is anything but good for gardening. Too much clay to deal with and it is difficult to work with. One thing I did to improve the soil was gather up a bunch of the leaves in the fall and place a layer on the garden over winter. The following spring I tilled the leaves in. That year it didn't help much but the following year I had some of the nicest soil I could imagine to work with.

Food for thought, no pun intended.