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Changing a track(my thoughts on new track with photos)


Hwood

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You need to pull the the driver to remove the track. The way to remove the driver is to pull chain case cover and remove the chain and lower sprocket. Next pull the snap ring off that keeps the bearing in the lower bore. Under the driven clutch is another bearing that you have remove then push the driver towards the chain case and the lower case bearing will push out. Then you can pull the driver back toward the clutch side and remove it. Becareful to not ruin the seals on case.

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You need to pull the the driver to remove the track. The only way to remove the driver is to pull chain case and cover remove the chain and lower sprocket. Next pull the snap ring off that keeps the bearing in the lower bore. Under the driven clutch is another bearing that you have remove then push the driver towards the chain case and the lower case bearing will push out. Then you can pull the driver back toward the clutch side ad remove it. Becareful to not ruin the seals on case.

X2

Not a hard job, just be sure to take your time so you can remember how to put it all back together, or better yet find a diagram on the internet.

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Thats what I thought, been there. I am thinking the guy I talked to got this sled mixed up with another.

Learned the hard way a few years ago on remembering where things go in a chain case, mostly the shims. The bottle of gogo juice that came with to the garage did not help much. Well that night was fine, putting it back together next day....not so good.

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Thanks for the replies guys. Track is on. The job went better than the last track I did a few years ago. (Not so many shims and spacers) Lower gear needed to come off in chain case and the bearing on speedo side and things moved right along. Worst part was getting the suspension bolts holes to tunnel to line back up. This is my first new track, should I expect some stretch and need to take up some slack after a bit?

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Finnaly got a chance to take it out at for a few minutes. Put a camoplast cobra track on. As you can see it would not have taken much to be considered an upgrade. (Thats how I got the sled). I have looked for a long time to get the best of all worlds in a track. I figured I will start with this and add studs if I felt I needed them and more important when I got the cash. For now I am thrilled with what it does in the powder has a nice ride on hard pack but does not hookup so great on the trail. The lugs are rather soft and dont bite so well and without studs I can see myself wearing it down due to spin. I had kind of expected this and was torn between the cobra, the ripsaw and the iceripper but was told I would be happier with the powder performace with the cobra, and I had read elsewhere the ripsaw will trench more in powder but no perform better on the trail. Saw a used iceripper the other day with a lot the aluminum showing for the core of the studs. I question how well they will hold up. This was at a sled salvage place and I have no idea the whos and what behind the track. Anyhow I know others out there, as I did, have a hard time picking a track. Home this helps someone.

The tailstand pic. is from a stop in powder, the sled stands up higher yet but the timing of my darling wife and the camera was not there. I called this shot good enough. Now if I could just get in those ditches I would be ow so happy. When the time comes what size studs should I shoot for. Track is just a hair under 1 3/8. I thought I heard 1/8 taller than track but with such soft lugs could I play it safe and go 1 3/8 studs?

4347994592_66a476d0d8_o.jpg

4347977268_e82e70193f_o.jpg

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Very good choice on the Cobra...I have 3000 miles on my Cobra and it looks like it was just put on. No torn lugs and not much wear. I have an 1 1/2" ripsaw on my other sled and that track is not even close to the Cobra off trail. It does hook up better on the trail though, but the Cobra is definitely the track I would buy again.

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