Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

99 Grand Prix - alternator


Recommended Posts

Kids car had check engine light blink three times. Now she said that the lights dim imtermittently while driving at speed. Charger only went up to 2 amps so the battery doesn't seem drawn down. Any way to tell if it's the alternator short of removing and testing it? I'm DIYer with a volt/ohm meter but not much more to diagnose auto electrical problems. 99 Grend Prix with about 160K and a rebuilt engine.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

put your meter on dc volts start the engine put the red lead on positive cable at battery black on neg at the battery. read the meter it should be showing around 13 volts or so if you turn lights on it should go up. if it is below 12.7 i would say you have a bad alt. you could also take it to a parts store and they can check the whole system for free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I would do........

As stated, put voltmeter on dc and check battery while running. If not at least 13 or so volts it's not getting a charge. If below 13 volts I'd check what I call the primary wire attaching to the alternator. With the motor running it should show voltage (12 vdc). This means (In my non-ASE tech language) the field in the alternator is excited.

If you have voltage to the primary wire, and less than 13 volts on the battery, good chance the alternator is weak or dead. Don't know if it's a good idea on newer motors, but on the old school stuff I used to remove the positive cable from the battery while the car is running. If the car stayed running I knew the alternator was good. IF the car died the alternator was kaput. Once again, I don't know if this is a good thing to do on the more electronic controlled motors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be tough if it's an intermittent.

If you have not checked all connections on starter, alternator, battery, any auxilary battery feeds/fuse blocks, that's where I'd start. Given it was worthy of mention the engine has been rebuilt, I think there's at least an average chance of a loose connection somewere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as noted above, check the ground cable from battery to frame, the alt should be case grounded. DO NOT remove the positive cable while the engine is running. You will cause all sorts of issues with the computer. You could do this years ago on non computer engines but not any longer. Is the battery low in the am? you might let it sit overnight and prior to starting the engine, touch the alt to see if it warm. Could be a leaky diode but the battery would be low or dead in the am.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup...that can do it too. Last alternator I had bearings go out on went pretty quick. Noticed an occasional squeak but didn't think much about it. Next thing I knew, the volt gauge went nuts and when I looked under the hood, sparks were flying out of the alternator!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.