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Is my new Yamaha outboard the wrong size


JScott

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I just got my new Lund Explorer 17 Sport w/Yamaha 115. When I took it out for the first couple of times and started speeding up, I noticed water rolling into the splash well at various trim levels and a huge rooster tail on each side of the motor parallel with the transom. The rooster tail forms a "V" about 5 feet into the air right off the back of the boat on each side. I do not feel this is from the transducer.

I've never seen this on any boats I've owned or been on before so I looked more closely at the motor in the garage. I found that with the motor all the way down, the cavitation plate is 6 inches below the level of the lowest part of the hull such that the wider part of the neck of the shaft is fully in contact with oncoming water under the boat. It seems to me it is pushing too much water and maybe they put a 25" motor on my boat when Lund says it has a 20" transom.

Can I tell by the serial number or something which motor I've got? I called the dealer and he said its right, but I don't have a lot of confidence in him after the fiasco trying to buy the boat, and he's not exactly the best listener I've ever met. (that's another story).

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The fact that they did away with model years is just part of the problem in this case. The second motor they put on my boat was clearly used. It leaks hydraulic fluid from the tilt/trim area and has excessive grime up underneath the motor when tilted full up. Also, other bolt holes other than the ones used for my boat show evidence of paint missing from washers so I know it was mounted on at least two other boats. Finally, the skeg has been scraped hard against something (not tar) so I think its been ridden hard on a demo boat or something. I just can't believe I didn't notice all that when I checked it over out in the lot that day. Its a lot easier to see it when you get it home in the garage and someone isn't looking over your shoulder. I just didn't expect that kind of dishonesty from a well known dealer.

Furthermore, I called them today and guess what?? The new motor will be in "NEXT WEEK". I think this is going to take a while.

There are a lot of people following this story and it could definitely happen to anyone... So, I just want people to know what to look for when you think you are buying a new motor.

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Sadly, My brother and I went through some pretty terrible headaches when we purchased the new boat a few years back, some of the ol timers on here may even remember the 18ft lund with 150 suzuki on it story. Well after the 3 months of being in and out of the shop that 1st summer, the motor has run spectacular, and everything else on the boat has functioned flawlessly.

We did almost have to go to small claims court for $300 they made us pay the 2nd trip in for labor, which they claimed Suzuki would then remburse us the $300. Caught them trying to double dip from Suzuki. the dealer had directly billed Suzuki the $300 labor and recieved the check from them as they did the $300 from my brother. They were pretty dumb thinking they'd get away with that one. Probably one of the reasons that place got shut down. There still are a few good dealers out there though.

Hopefully once your troubles get solved, you'll have the 2 years we've had without a single incident. Good luck and keep us informed!

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Yes, of course.

We are preparing to start the production of model year 2010 machines starting in June (2009). Model year 2010 build will continue through May 2010. Then, in June 2010, the model year will roll to 2011.

My concern would not be so much with warranty because you get your time from the retail date, but with things like product improvements and resale value of a "new" 2007 built engine vs a "new" 2009 built engine.

I, for one, sure the heck wouldn't pay as much for a new carryover 2007 car as I would for a new 2009/2010 car. Yet, it almost sounds like some are saying new is new and that sort of thing doesn't matter. Sounds more like Yamaha and maybe others are trying to mask the model year thing so as to try to avoid or minimize discounting carryover engines.

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thats what it sounds like to me.

They or the dealer dont have to discount for previous model year like the car dealers do at the end of the season.

Kinda like Home Depot now selling 8oz paint samples which they are making money on instead of giving out those free paint sample cards. They are making money on the sample and it isn't costing them money to give the free sample cards. It's all how you market it.

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My concern would not be so much with warranty because you get your time from the retail date, but with things like product improvements and resale value of a "new" 2007 built engine vs a "new" 2009 built engine.

My concerns as well. What changes to the engine can they make before a new "model number" is required. I know something had to have changed between 2007 and 2009, and I want the latest and greatest if I am paying for it.

Skidoo 600HO snowmobile engines in 2003 didn't have PTO seal retainers, they finally saw the need for them (too many seals popping out and taking down engines) and started putting them on the engines in 2005. I wonder if a change similar to this on an outboard would require a new model number by the manufacturer or not. If not, I would not want the older model even though it's basically the same engine.

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My concern would not be so much with warranty because you get your time from the retail date, but with things like product improvements and resale value of a "new" 2007 built engine vs a "new" 2009 built engine.

Manufacturers are saying that they're not making improvements year-to-year anymore. Keeping in mind we're talking about an outboard motor...IMO, there's not much they can change year-in and year-out. A carb two-stroke motor has been around for a long time...they're pretty simple motors. There's not much else they can change unless they want to go to EFI or 4-stroke. What you consider as an "improvement" to an EFI or 4-stroke motor is up to you.

As for "resale" value of a used motor, not new. Which one has a better value? A 2007 pick-up with 24,000 miles on it or a 2008 pick-up with 48,000 miles on it (everything else being equal)? When the models are the same, newer (aka "latest and greatest") doesn't always mean better...just ask the guy that fried his E-tec.

JJohnson, have you considered filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau? Selling a used motor like it was new should never happen.

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Well, I finally have some news to report. I got the third motor installed on my new Lund the other day. As per my agreement/demand with the dealer, I went into the shop and watched them unpack the motor from the crate and over the next two hours, hung around while they pulled the used motor off and put the new one on.

I finally got out on the river tonight and got three hours on the new motor breaking it in and. . . so far it seems fine. Good thing I had lots of practice breaking in motor #1 way back in early May. I REALLY like this rig a lot. It all came down to the wire since I am leaving for Rainy on Sunday and have been wanting to bring my new boat.

It is with out a doubt the worst buying experience I've ever had, and hopefully this will be the end of it.

Time to catch some walleyes!

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As for "resale" value of a used motor, not new. Which one has a better value? A 2007 pick-up with 24,000 miles on it or a 2008 pick-up with 48,000 miles on it (everything else being equal)?

Just getting back on this...

That's not really the situation here. In this case they're both supposed to be "new" and operation will be the same amount of time since we're looking at the hypothetical situation of either one being on the same boat for the same amount of use.

So, the question really is, what is worth more down the road? A 2007 with "x" hours on it or a 2008 (or 2009) with the same number of hours on it?

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