Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

planting pine trees/mulch


eyemaster

Recommended Posts

I am planting pine trees and I have been told that putting mulch around them is beneficial. Has anyone ever put the grass clippings from the lawn around them? Would this be a good or bad idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a neighbor at my last place that would spray weed killer around the base of his evergreens to keep the weeds and grass away and put his lawn clippings under them thru the summer. They seemed to grow very well. I'm always a little gun shy spraying weed killer around trees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some things we do when moving or planting trees on our golf course. We weed-eat the area down to the bare ground, place a weed barrier around them and mulch them with about 3-4 inch of it a foot or so past the drip line and water it in heavy. The mulch helps retain moisture and acts as a weed barrier by itself. Most herbicides will tell you not to use any around newly planted trees. Do not put the mulch against the truck of the tree or use anything kind of wrap or tube on the trunk. Make sure you put the root ball slightly above or level with the grade. There is no need for fertilizing them at all. They will survive on thier own carbs and vitamin B. How are you getting these trees? Container or balled and burlapped?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some things we do when moving or planting trees on our golf course. We weed-eat the area down to the bare ground, place a weed barrier around them and mulch them with about 3-4 inch of it a foot or so past the drip line and water it in heavy. The mulch helps retain moisture and acts as a weed barrier by itself. Most herbicides will tell you not to use any around newly planted trees. Do not put the mulch against the truck of the tree or use anything kind of wrap or tube on the trunk. Make sure you put the root ball slightly above or level with the grade. There is no need for fertilizing them at all. They will survive on thier own carbs and vitamin B. How are you getting these trees? Container or balled and burlapped?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am getting them in planters, I am not planning on putting any weed killer down, but was thinking that if I put my grass clippings around them it would help them. It sounds like there is one person that has used grass clippings in the past. My question is would it be better to use mulch or grass clippings? or maybe both?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont over mulch your trees. I with a small local landscaping company last spring on a few projects. The crew foreman kept telling me the trees needed 1-2 FEET of mulch. Doing this will smoother the shallow roots that need to breath.

Mulch is good for trees. More than 6-8" of mulch is harmful and will cause root damage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mulch & grass clippings? Personally, I would go with a mulch for asthetics. When you p[ull thos out of the containers take a close look at the root ball to make sure the roots have not, or started to gridle. If so, simply take a razor knive and score the girdling roots. I usually take my hand a rub the outter surface of the root ball to loosen them up alittle. Another thing I do is cut the bottom off the container before I put it in the hole on soil that has been loosened. Then I cut the container upwards about a 1/3 in 3 places and put in the back fill, then cut pull up the container, back fill, pull up, back fill til it's in the ground with good root system contact with the back fill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of curiosity, what happens if the root ball ends up below ground level. Planted some roses last year and after the soil settled, the root balls ended up an inch or two below the rest of the ground level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mulch & grass clippings? Personally, I would go with a mulch for asthetics. When you p[ull thos out of the containers take a close look at the root ball to make sure the roots have not, or started to gridle. If so, simply take a razor knive and score the girdling roots. I usually take my hand a rub the outter surface of the root ball to loosen them up alittle. Another thing I do is cut the bottom off the container before I put it in the hole on soil that has been loosened. Then I cut the container upwards about a 1/3 in 3 places and put in the back fill, then cut pull up the container, back fill, pull up, back fill til it's in the ground with good root system contact with the back fill.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should always plant new trees on solid ground an inch or two of loose soil wont hurt but any more the tree ball will settle over time and the newly sprouted roots maybe damaged running a chance of setting the tree back in growth or worst yet kill it. I have seen it happen many times over the years

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.