Jump to content

  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

wood for boat

gbc

By gbc
in Open Water

 Share

Recommended Posts

gbc Explorer

gbc

Posted
Posted

I know this has probably been asked a thousand times, but what's one more time then right

I have a 87 mirrocraft that I gutted down to the aluminum. The boards were rotten and the carpet was moldy. So now I am going to replace all the floor decking and build some side rod lockers and other amenities.

From my research I have found people are saying use anything from OSB, CDX, Marine, treated etc...

I would rather not spend $100 a sheet on marine grade needing 4 of them if I don't have to. Treated won't work as the boat is aluminum.

I've head AB solid core douglas fir, but have yet to find a place in MN that sells it.

BUT

I just found fir online so I would have to pay $75 shipping, but they have Douglas fir for the following prices per 4 x 8 sheet. I think I can get away with 1-2 for the main flooring, but I'm thinking I should use 5/8 or 3/4 for the bow deck, what do you think?

1/2", 5-ply $55.00

5/8", 7-ply $64.00

3/4", 7-ply $73.00

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JakeJ_Mn Collaborator

JakeJ_Mn

Posted
Posted

Marine plywood is the best, but I have used regular plywood and sealed it with an epoxy coating before putting carpeting on or leaving it plain. MinnWax latex Clear coat works good. I have also used the white Stay Cool latex sealer for trailer roofs under carpeting and plain.

All of our pick-nick tables have the white Stay Cool and they look good.

Whatever you choose just seal with 2 good coats and it should work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hydro Mentor

hydro

Posted
Posted

Use exterior grade plywood from the home store.

Marine grade plywood uses the exact same materials and process to manufacture with the exception that interior ply specifications are tighter. The glue is the same, waterproof in both cases. For the interior of a fishing boat there is no reason to spend the money of special grades of plywood.

Form the APA (APA – The Engineered Wood Association) HSOforum:

"What is Marine-grade plywood?

Marine-grade plywood is a specially designed panel made entirely of Douglas-fir or Western Larch. The grade of all plies of veneer is B or better, which means it may have knots, but no knotholes. The panels are sanded on both faces, and are also available with Medium Density Overlay (MDO) or High Density Overlay (HDO) faces. The maximum core-gap size permitted is 1/8 inch. Its exposure durability rating is EXTERIOR and the glue used is a fully waterproof structural adhesive. It is considered a “premium” panel grade for use in situations where these characteristics are required, i.e., for boat hulls and other marine applications where bending is involved.

Marine-grade plywood is available in 4x8-foot sheets of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4-inch thickness. Sheets up to 5x12 feet are also available. Available grades are A-A, A-B, B-B (face-back), MDO and HDO.

Marine-grade plywood is not treated with any chemicals to enhance its resistance to decay. If decay is a concern, it should be pressure-preservative treated to an appropriate standard.

The detailed description of veneer grades and Marine-grade plywood is contained in Voluntary Product Standard PS 1-95: Construction And Industrial Plywood."

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gbc Explorer

gbc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi i have used cdx plywood and had no problems with it i noticed you said treated wont work with aluminum i didnt know this does it cause a chemical reaction. other wise cdx worked great for me

From my understanding the chemicals used to treat the wood react with aluminum and over time will start to eat away at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gbc Explorer

gbc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, for those of you who used CDX, have you had it in your boat for a long time? I would be happy to get 5+ years out of it and then it will probably be time to upgrade anyway.

Hydro, is exterior grade plywood the same as CDX or are there different types of exterior grade plywood?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hydro Mentor

hydro

Posted
Posted

No, "CDX" is not the same as "exterior grade". "CDX" is a common term used to refer to C-D Exposure 1 plywood. The C and D refer to the veneer grades of each face and the "Exposure" rating is meant for use not directly expoxed to water contact. Usually, the face veneers are not sanded and they have the peeler finish. It is really meant as sheathing for construction where it will be covered over by subsequent layers of building materials.

"Exterior Grade" plywood is designed for outdoor use with direct exposure to water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gbc Explorer

gbc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lowes can get you 1/2" 4'X8' Marine grade plywood for $55-$60 a sheet.

Wow, I will def. check on that. The lumber yard I called here in Eagan wanted $99. I gotta get going on this thing or I won't be ready until it's time to ice fish

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jwmiller33 Grand Master

jwmiller33

Posted
Posted

i just recently did a boat project and needed 3 sheets of plywood. 2 needed to be 1/2 inch and one needed to be 3/4.

i know a guy at a lumberyard who got me a great deal, basically at cost. the 1/2 inch was $41 and the 3/4 was $60. Not bad

I would recommend going with the marine plywood. Do the job right the first time you do it. If your going to spend $75 a sheet for non marine plywood, u mine as well fork out the $25 extra and get marine. That's what I would do anyways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hydro Mentor

hydro

Posted
Posted

PT Barnum would have had a field day on this site.

You guys keep pounding the marine plywood idea, just because it says "Marine" in the name? I guess it's your money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
hydro Mentor

hydro

Posted
Posted

If you can get the marine grade material for less, then go for it. My point remains, however, in that there is no valid reason to select the marine grade material for this application.

The ultimate failure mode of either exterior grade or marine grade plywood wil be decay from prolonged water contact. In that case the treated plywood would probably outlast either material, even considering possible corrosion issues with the aluminum contact where it is mounted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept