Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Mykal

Correct setup for a "t" fitting between main motor and kicker

Recommended Posts

Need a little expert advice. I have a 3/8" main fuel line on a 07 Lund Pro V that that runs into a primer bulb about a foot from where the gas line is connected to the boat. Another foot to a brass "t". The straight line runs to my Optimax and the "t" line runs directly to my 9.9 kicker. My question is should I install a primer bulb between the "t" and my kicker? Also should I move the other primer bulb to the main motor on the back side of the the "t" closest to the main motor? The "t" was put in at a dealership but every once in a while it seems that my kicker wants to stall when in gear at idle speed, like it's gas starved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I understand is that with the kicker line behind the primer bulb like you have it, the main motor can suck air via the kicker creating a lean condition. Each line should have it's own primer bulb and the kicker line should be T'd before the primer bulb for the main motor. On my boat I also have a shut off valve on the kicker line to make sure tha main motor is getting fuel directly from the tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Black Bay has it right. The best set-up is to have each fuel line run directly to the tank, each with it's own primer bulb. If that's not an option, a T or a switch / cut-off between the tank and each motor's primer bulb is the way to go.

Also, it sounds like your primer bulb is closer to the tank than to the motor? Usually the primer bulb is closer to the motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is how mine is set up. One line from the tank, "T" then a primer for both motors. The primer bulb will stop back flow in the lines. Works great so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys! That makes sense. Running the kicker direct to tank is not an option right now. I have a spot for it but it is not tapped yet.

It just didn't seem right but I didn't question it as I said it was rigged at a dealer. I already bought the stuff I need to make the changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my opinion you should really have a t with a valve instead of a straight T. Without the straight T the main motor will draw the fuel from the kicker motor's fuel line and has the potential to pull air from the kicker in some situations.

A T Valve with a between the valve and the fuel tank pickup primer would take care of your situation.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the future, have your dealer install a water/fuel separater then simply hook both lines to that. This not only splves your problem, but it's also very good for your motors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Sorry but $200 seems pretty high for that thing to me. Thousands of less expensive alternatives.
    • Looks like a great project.  A DYI froth pak for $500 or so will do 12 sq ft at 1" thick.  Most home improvement stores carry these.  
    • I got a set of FXR FLoating bibs on clearance from the place in Rush City that goes along with my jacket I bought last year. It is really warm and lite.
    • Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Driving Fog Light Off Road Lights Boat Lights driving lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pj75zbQ34AMAQ
    • Last weekend I switched out my ramp door for a bay window.  I'd like to spray foam it, but I'm sure I won't be able to find anyone willing to do it professionally in my area, at least not at a reasonable price.  Last winter I had to drive an hour and a half to get the rest of it spray foamed for about $2000.  One company told me they wouldn't fire up their equipment for less than 1800. For this small of an area I'm thinking I would be just fine with the foam boards @ 2-3/4" thick with the furring.  Otherwise, does anyone know how well those Menards Froth Packs work?  $360 still seems kind of spendy to spray foam that little area myself.  
    • That's awesome. I gave mine a test last night and they weren't bright enough. I might have to order some bright lights from Amazon. 
    • Looking good! I also wanted reverse lights. I used some of the really bright light bars from Amazon on mine.  
    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
  • Our Sponsors