Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
backtroller1

fiberglass boat / roller trailer

5 posts in this topic

My brother inlaw is looking at a fiberglass runabout, with a roller trailer under it. I think that a bunk style trailer would still be best. Can anyone tell me if I am incorrect on that thinking. I always thought that the roller trailer can damage the hull of a fiberglass boat. Any and ALL input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are correct in the assumption. Bunks are best for a glass boat. They support the hull evenly and make it a dream to load and unload. Rollers are great for aluminum boats, but not glass. If he is serious about looking at the boat, he should probably have the hull looked at by a professional just to make sure there isn't any damage.

The one point that could be made, if the boat was owned by a person living on the lake and it only spends the winters on the trailer it might be different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is the exact case, the seller lives on the lake and it was only on the trailer in the winter months, however, my brother in law would be transporting to different waters. Can a roller trailer be redone and put bunks on instead?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is nothing wrong with roller trailer that is properly setup to match a glass boat. If you look at a bunk trailer consider how many places the bunk meets a mount. It is at those points that were the majority of weight is being supported.

Now if this trailer is a mismatch and just something used to pull the boat out of the water with and store the boat on during the winter then you might need to replace the trailer or reconfigure or adjust the rollers.

Having said all that, the shape and steps(best area for support)or location of on some glass hulls are best supported with a bunk trailer. On the other hand I had a 25' glass boat where a roller trailer was the best trailer because of the shape of the hull.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 92 Warrior with a Shorelander style roller trailer and it works very well. Amazingly easy to get on the trailer and the hull is fine.

Bunk trailers for glass boats is a bit of a generalization. Depends on the situation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • The resharpening doesn't kill my vibe towards the K-drill over the Nils. Babying things aren't part of the average consumers mindset. Durability is what they want.    I'm still on the hunt for an electric version that will suit my newly adapted way of fishing. If I can drill 20 holes in a day I'll be as happy as a fat kid at a cake eating contest. 
    • Oh go back to the Hey eyeguy BBQ post and bug BigDave!
    • Because your usual response is to demand whether I support this of that from some politician or what you claim is "my party", to try to deflect and obfuscicate.   Nobody can make you do anything here, but if you are prescribing policy it seems like you should be able to defend it with facts.
    • You must buy it.... I know you don't catch them!!!
    • I'll have to wait till I find a fresh road kill!! A plug your pie hole ding dong!
    • Hey don't get me involved in your frivolous hokus pokus!
    • Fun fact, CO alarms actually won't go off until 70 ppm is reach over 60 minutes. I believe this stems from Chicago FD responding to too many false CO calls. Law was passed to increase the level of exposure to lower emergency calls. Sofia's law is challenging this on boats and trying to mandate low level CO detectors be installed...I believe the incident happened at much less.That said MN is the first state to require CO detectors on boats with cabins.   Get a CO detector that displays an actual reading or better yet, find a low level CO monitor.   CO has a half life of around 4 hours...meaning if u get exposed with a level of say 20, going outside a few minutes won't help much espically if you go back into your infected fishouse....after 4 hrs of fresh air you'll be down to 10...hence the importance of the CO monitor and not just thinking going outside once an hour is doing much good if u have a leak.   That story made headlines but there was another bad CO incident that happened that same week regarding an ice fisherman...who also did not have a CO detector.
    • Nils extensions go on the bottom of the auger and have the helical.  You remove the blade and put the extension on.  They are made for all models of Nils.   Yes of coarse I've used a Milwaukee Fuel with an 8" Nils and posted video.  Less torque, faster,  but most importantly better battery life using the Nils.   . Yes they weigh a pound or two more then the KDrill because they aren't made from plastic.    If this comes down to blades well let's go there then. Kdrill has free sharpening but takes 3 weeks.   Did you know the material taken off that type blade and mount means less bite and therefore can never cut like new.  That is also why it is up to thier discretion if your blade can be sharpened.   A Nils head is blade and mount and can be adjusted after sharpening to cut as new.   So a nick that would ruin the KDrill blades can be removed from the Nils and still cut like it was intended to. I recently repaired a Nils blade that was used to dig post holes. My point is a Nils should serve its owner for a very long time. In 10 years I've dulled one Nils blade and that was from drilling into some buried trash left on the ice.      
  • Our Sponsors