Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Musky_Madness

97 F150 Creaking and Groaning

Recommended Posts

I have a 97 F150 and now the front end starts to creak on the front passenger side. I noticed when hitting bumps and it will make a creak sound when the weight shifts. I went to that corner of the truck and push up and down on it and it creaks everytime. Is this a matter of lubrication or something much more serious?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have to say, possible sway bar link broken or bushing split. Could be control arm bushing also.

I would look down in the area and locate thesway bar, inspect bushing and see if link is broken. If not grab link and twist to see if it makes noise.

This would be where I would start and then go from their.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have either ball joints or tie rod ends in you near future. We get about one of these or the expedition/explorer a day with the same noise. The ball joints/tie rod ends are not greasable from the factory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it only does it when bouncing (up and down over bumps) I would say sway bar bushings. If it does it bouncing and turn the wheel back and forth probably balljoints, there was also a problem with the pitman arms sqeaking on these.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:
I noticed when hitting bumps and it will make a creak sound when the weight shifts.

The above is what got me thinking sway bar area.

But, how ever Airjer brings up a good point also. I have seen dry socket B-joints cause a creak when driving and while stopped and pushing down on hood.

I think we are all in the ball park though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would guess pitmen arm or a tie rod end, you can just grab the linkage and twist it if it squeaks as you are twisting it then it is the part you are twisting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went to the local Ford dealer today and while they changed my oil, I had them take a gander at it. They said they put a lot of grease in and also noticed the sway bar was bent and that might be causing it. I was hoping it was just grease points, but after driving home it was still making noise occasionally when the weight would shift from side to side so I'm thinking it's the sway bar that's the problem. Nice call shackbash! To remedy my problem, do I have it replaced? What is the price of something like that? Is this the start of something bigger (added a lot of grease). The rep said that was pretty unusual. I bought the truck used last summer with 112k on it and it now has 117k so have hardly used it. I tow a boat mainly in the summer/fall and only when it's snowy/nasty out in the winter. Not my cruise around vehicle with gas at $4. Thanks for all your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Around $250-$300 installed. That could be high, but expect this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Either you could live with the noise or replace the sway bar. It will not lead to anything major. If it is in tack, you could go awhile with it the way it is. It will have to be replaced to cure the noise.

Good luck dude and thanks for reporting back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would like to know what they put alot of grease into. The only thing from the factor with zerks is the idler arm. Anything else would have been replaced.

Bent sway bar? Are the links still good? Make sure the sway bar is bent. Sway bar bushings aren't that bad to do, 4 bolts, slide the 2 brackets off, remove the 2 bushings and reverse the procedure installing the new bushings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Greasing the bushing is a common practice. If they get rusty, they can cure squeak’s by greasing them. They told him the bar is bent and I supposed tried to quit the noise for him. Most likely if the sway bar is replaced, new bushings should be installed. If they are split, they should be replaced anyways.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again guys. I guess I'll have to look into a little further if it's the sway bar or the sway bar links. If it's the links it's a lot cheaper from browsing the web.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did some poking around this evening and noticed that on the driver's side of the sway bar there is a little post that comes through the sway bar and is capped on the top. On the passenger side, the little post comes up to the sway bar, but there is no cap holding it firm on there. When I pulled on the frame up and down, the groan would come as the post with plastic around it would come as the sway bar would rub against it at the opening of the hole through the sway bar. This looks like an easy fix as that little post has a nut on the bottom and can be pulled out. Anyone know/have a similar problem or any tips....I could take some pictures too tomorrow and post them on here for you to look at as well. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, sounds like you are looking at a link. Never hurts to do both sides like fishingtech said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • We the People 1911   I am thinking this will be my next gun.
    • I have a question for all of you AV wizards out there. In my house I have 4 or 5  flat screen TV's connected directly to Mediacon cable. No cable box. The only problem to this is my channels are digital channels so Fox 9 is actually on 9.9 and ESPN is on 66.5, etc.  I just recently acquired an older flat screen tv for my garage from a friend who didn't want it anymore. It is about 10 years old.  When I hook it up to cable and try to run the auto programming feature it doesn't find anything.  Could that TV just be too old to do what I am asking? I can get a cable box from Mediacom but I'm trying to avoid that. Any ideas?
    • I understand that the block heater doesn't warm the truck. It does warm the block which in turn heats the antifreeze which circulates through the heater core. The quicker the antifreeze heats up, the quicker the heater in the cab is blowing warm air. I am simply trying to cut down on idling time in the driveway. During the week the only time it's driven is quick trips when the wife is not home. Her vehicle is what's driven most of the time.  My my main concern was leaving the pickup plugged in all the time and causing some other sort of issues with the engine. 
    • How hard has he been running this 400 HP rig? Might be as simple as a plug wire or might require a compression test. 
    • Get the choke adjusted that should take care of the cold start issue. A weak fuel pump usually starts to show up at high RPMs.   If left to idle the fuel pump fills the carb bowl, as you accelerate the weak pump can't keep up and the engine bogs and bucks.  A bad fuel filter will do the same thing and is often overlooked. You probably have 2 filters,  one on the gas line and one inside the inlet of the carb.  Replace them, don't clean them.   A  fuel pump pressure test would be the next thing to do.   If your getting the bog throughout the power band then I'd suspect something electrical but it could show up just at higher RPMs or load as well.  Condition of plug wires, dist cap, rotor, pickup coil, and vacuum advance.  1st check all the vacuum lines for cracks and loose connections.  Something that old is bound to have bad lines.  While your at it clean the PCV vavle.  Google HEI distributor to test the pickup coil and ohm values.   Check the linkage to vacuum advance.  You can do a visual on the cap and rotor but its hard to find a hairline crack.   Keep us updated.  
    • I was seeing the same things on the lakes in Roseville/Shoreview. I assumed that with the cold temps over night the ice was growing and expanding causing a few of those cracks to show up.  Maybe some of the light snow helped push the ice down enough to let a little water seep through.
    • Tried wiring the choke open at operating temp and took for a drive. Still misses at appx 45 mph. Always seem to miss about 90% of the time at that speed although sometimes at around 30mph. Next question,,, fuel pump maybe or possibly the EGR VALVE. Dont have a way to test the fuel pump but thinking with the way its hard to start I was thinking possibly low fuel pressure. 
    • Bald Eagle skimmed over on Saturday.  Today after the relatively light snow there are many areas where the cracks look like water came up through and discolored the ice.  At least that what I think happened. Since there was only an inch or so of snow I am surprised that it pushed the ice down and let water come up.  Anyone else have an explanation?
    • I am assuming it was either an Ion, SM Lithium, or drill setup... If it is, no need for a slush copter. I put my slush bucket over the hole... drill... then reverse. In 12" of ice I can do 6 holes with one dump of the bucket. Every 6" beyond that takes another dumping of the bucket.
    • I have the parts on order to get the unit set up for the ice.  I ended up buying a marcum lithium shuttle for my LX7 and then plan to mount the Helix on the shuttle that came with my LX7.  I am hoping to find walk-able ice in my area this weekend and hopefully the parts show up before then so i can give it a go.  I have the pre-chirp model of the helix so with a little luck i can get them to cooperate.
  • Our Sponsors