This has probably been asked before, but I haven't found a specific answer yet. Other than the gas orifice, is there any other part of the heater/cooker assembly to check if I am having a flow issue? Can the valve assembly be taken apart or cleaned in some fashion? Can I shoot carb cleaner into it for example?
I have an ancient Mr Heater, cooker version. I run a 20lb tank with hose (no filter.) Had it for 15 years or more. Unit has worked great all these years, but I have noticed that this year it doesn't seem to be putting out quite as much heat on high as it used to. Started researching posts and have learned that I should be running a filter due to various contaminants in the propane/hose system. But the damage may have already been done.
I am assuming that there may be a restriction/contamination someplace. I have disassembled the heater and cleaned the gas orifice with no change in operation. Still seems to be running less than full output. Is there a way to dismantle or clean the valve/knob assembly? If I am able to clean/repair it I will add the filter to prevent future issues. (And yes, I turn off the tank first and let the system burn itself out after each use, in case that matters.) Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
Question
B@ssmaster
I posted this in the ice fishing forum as well.
This has probably been asked before, but I haven't found a specific answer yet. Other than the gas orifice, is there any other part of the heater/cooker assembly to check if I am having a flow issue? Can the valve assembly be taken apart or cleaned in some fashion? Can I shoot carb cleaner into it for example?
I have an ancient Mr Heater, cooker version. I run a 20lb tank with hose (no filter.) Had it for 15 years or more. Unit has worked great all these years, but I have noticed that this year it doesn't seem to be putting out quite as much heat on high as it used to. Started researching posts and have learned that I should be running a filter due to various contaminants in the propane/hose system. But the damage may have already been done.
I am assuming that there may be a restriction/contamination someplace. I have disassembled the heater and cleaned the gas orifice with no change in operation. Still seems to be running less than full output. Is there a way to dismantle or clean the valve/knob assembly? If I am able to clean/repair it I will add the filter to prevent future issues. (And yes, I turn off the tank first and let the system burn itself out after each use, in case that matters.) Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
B@ssmaster
Link to comment
Share on other sites
1 answer to this question
Recommended Posts