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Wheel House ?s


DRH1175

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I am 6'2" and from spending many nights in a 6.5' and only one in a 8'.. Bigger is better! a little more streching room. Maybe someone will correct me on this but I believe the 8' has less twisting in the rear when you set it up for a toy hauler. Something to due with strapping surface on the rear walls.

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I agree bigger is better and it isnt if any harder to get off the Ice I had a 7 x 21 wheel house everyone said it was huge till they fished in it. now im building another 7x20 wheel house the only way to do it is to upgrade every couple of years kinda like women.

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I think I like the 8' idea since It will be my camper for awhile as well. How hard are the long ones like 18 - 20 footers to get on and off the ice? Not much of an issue down the road as most campers are this long. How about hydraulics? and double axles any advantages here?

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i agree bigger is better also but heavier as well. More gas get it... You need to consider a few more things.

1.How far do you plan to travel? If you are wealthy than not an issue.

2. Do you ever have company or take a lot of STUFF along?

3. Do you enjoy early ice?

That being said good luck.

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when you build your frame make your house sit real high I even put taller tires on mine. As far as the access. When I launch my 20 footer I always have fished the lake ahead of time so I know the access once had a real steep one drifted huge in front of the way out took half a day but that was the worst. once mine is launched I usually drive my park avneue out to it saves a ton on gas. as far as hydraulics and to axels I think waste of time my leef springs came from f.f. work great so Why change it and make it more compicated. this is my opinion thou

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I would go 8' wide before 6'5" the extra width seems to make a bigger difference in room in the house.I have run a Hyd wheel system for 3 years and no problems yet with axles bending or the Hyd not working.If you are going to have a house 16 foot or longer I would think about runnig Tandem axles. MY 2cents

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8' All the way! I had a 6.5 x 14 and got 9 mpg with a F-150. I now Have a 8 x 20 plus a 3 foot V and get 8, so yeah it takes a little more, but not that much. Mine is a double axl, and the double really takes a lot of the weight off your hitch. Of course you still need tongue weight, but it does not squat your vehicle. Makes a huge difference inside with room!! I now also switch to a heavier sidewall tire, less tire squat and sway.

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One thing to consider is that with the 8' models the Wheels are on the inside and covered...so this takes a lot of room, and usually narrows the center to around 4'...and then you can't see clearly from front to back, holes around corners etc...

They can be built to close to 7' on the outside which gives enough room inside for sleeping for most...or run the bunks lengthwise, which is better for fishing out of the holes on the opposite side...not stepping in them when the rattle wheel goes off in your sleep... blush

With the 8' and the wheels inside, it is harder to to steal the wheels, and maybe the trailor when let down...

An Extreme V-Front will improve Mileage and you can tuck a Potty in there...

Ideal for me: 7' with Wheels Outside, Extreme V, Aluminum Frames, Drop Tongue, Maintenance Free, Extreme Insulation, Small Oven with Cooktop, Solar and Wind Charging for Batteries, Water Tank up High for Running Water, Thermostatically Controlled Outside Vent into Cooler, Fold up Bunks, Wide Back Door(s), Side Door Behind V, Door into V from Inside for Potty...etc..

Vent in V... blush

Holes Placed Exactly Right... laugh

As usual whatever route you go won't allow for All the Benefits of Both... frown

Hope this helps...confuse things... laugh

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I agree with Moby on the V front and the hole placement. I would like to build an 8' wide. I draw up plans probably every other week of floor plans for fish houses (doesn't help with ice fishing fever). But hole placement is key! Me and my dad did not do a lot of pre planning when we built our first wheelhouse. The holes are too far apart so that you have to completely turn around to fish 2 holes. Also got the holes too close to the wall/corners which makes it very difficult to drill your holes straight. Also didn't make our v-front sharp enough unless your pickup has a topper that makes a huge difference. Just my .02 Also keep in mind bunk placement when you are placing your holes.

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If you go 8' wide I built stove and counter top over one tire and the other side I put a small bench to sit on and on the ends of house I put my bunks one on each end.Put furnace and batteries under one of the bunks House is 8'by 16' with 7 holes.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
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    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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