Changing tie rods for 2003 Dodge 2500 4x4?

[311Hemi]

Just curious if I need any special tools to change tie rod ends on my 2003 Dodge 2500 4x4. Specifically I know I need to change the one end that attaches to the pitman arm, and a couple others that I see are loose and contributing to my loose steering.

I have not change these before and I'm just not sure if I need a puller or if they just pop out (like the pitman arm one)? I know I can change the tie rods ends with the connecting sleeves.......but what about the two on the left side of the image below that are on the R.H. Connecting Rod? Does the whole rod get replaced or all these rods if I need all new ones?

[Jeremy airjer W]

Yes, you will get a whole arm.

Remove the nut on the end whack the knuckle where the tie rod goes through with a big hammer. 2-3 good whacks and the tie rod should fall out of the knuckle.

[Scott K]

Just remember if you do it yourself you will need to do an alignment afterwards or you will wear your tires out quick! The parts are fairly easy to do by yourself.

[311Hemi]

Yes, you will get a whole arm.

Remove the nut on the end whack the knuckle where the tie rod goes through with a big hammer. 2-3 good whacks and the tie rod should fall out of the knuckle.

Thanks!

When you say you will get a whole arm...is that referring to a whole new connecting rod? I would not be getting a new pitman arm. Just want to make sure I understand what your saying.

This is part of a large front end rebuild....but I think I have the other part covered. 4 ball joints and a hub/bearing assembly. Not looking forward to this job!

[Jeremy airjer W]

everything except the adjusting sleeve and the pitman arm tie rod end.

[Valv]

311hemi, if you want we can do the ball joints together, I have mine to change too, 2003 ram 3500

I guarantee you they are NOT fun.

[311Hemi]

Valv, have you done them before and do you have a press for them?

I have read many times this is not a fun job but it looks fairly strait forward. It might not be a bad idea to do them togeather if you think we could do them both in a day and you wanted to help a ball joint rookie! I'm fairly mechanically inclined....so that should not be an issue.

I guess the only thing is I also need to have the passenger side U-joint replaced and I was going to take the axle somewhere to do that. Never done U-joints myself.....again mainly because I never tried.

[Valv]

Well sorry for posting that, I just found out I have to leave monday right away and load a boat sunday, so my ball joint will have to wait.

They are actually a pain, most problem is getting the hub/bering assembly out without separating it which makes it junk and it cost $ 325 new. You will need a tool, usually the parts store will loan one if you buy the joints. One of the best brands are Moog greasable units, then Spicer sealed. As I said I can do this together but it will have to be after next weekend, I am going to FL and will be back next sunday. Call me at 612 756 0149 we'll talk.

[311Hemi]

I'll call ya in the next day or two. I am in no hurry but need to do it in the next few weeks.

A little trick I heard for getting the hub assembly off is to back the bolts out a little bit and then stick a socket extension in between the bolt and the metal piece behind it (ball joint possibly?), and use the power steering to push them out little by little. I have a write up of it so this was the cliff note version, but you don't ruin the hub assembly doing it this way. It does require two people though.

I am looking into the moog ones as many people have recommended them. There's an online store that seems to have pretty good prices on a lot of this stuff....so I will be pricing everything out soon.

[311Hemi]

(note from admin,please read forum policy before posting again,thank-you.)

[Valv]

I tried the power steering trick on my 2001 and did not work.

You have to be really careful not to separate the hub/bearing unit, they are tough though.

I just found out I have to replace the ones on my wife's Trailblazer too..... We should buy a wholesale lot of ball joints and find others that need the work done. Then get a wholesale supply of "brewsky" and invite Airjer to coach us in case we need help

I'll go first, I don't know how many "barley pop" he can take... . We should also bring in 4wanderingeyes to help coaching, but I know we have to watch him closely with the refreshments

Shoot, we can start the 1st FM ball joint event !!!

[Scott K]

Valv if I had the spare time this weekend I would stop over and give you a hand with some of those brewskies and coaching , if you dont have it done in a couple weeks maybe I could be convinced to go your way!

[311Hemi]

I just decided that I am replacing both wheel bearing.....so if I can save the one good one that will be fine If I am doing most of the front end I might as well do it all. I think I will be ordering today.

There is also a discount code for an extra 5% off from rockauto. These guys had the best prices I could find, by a significant amount.

So my new front end will be running me $930, plus tools and/beer!!

[minneman]

311, curious, how many miles on your 03? and do you think the 315's accelerated this problem?

[311Hemi]

Truck has 113k on it. I purchased it with 82k and had the BFG's on it ever since that day. It's certainly possible the bigger tires put more strain on it.....but I think it's more just normal maintenance that I have put off since I purchased it so I am now just rebuilding all at once. I don't know that any of the front end parts were replaced before I bought the truck....but I am guessing not.

[311Hemi]

Valv, I am gonna try this one on my own and will probably start tomorrow. I need the truck up and running mid next week because I leave for Canada next weekend. Thanks for the offer though!

[311Hemi]

Well.....that job was a PITA!!!

I got one side done (bearing/ball joints/u-joint) this weekend and got all the tie rods replaced. They didn't send me the second bearing/hub assembly so I may hold off as I don't think the drivers side bearing or ball joints are bad.

I was able to press the old bearing/hub assembly off using the steering method. Took a little bit but little by little the bolts pushed it out. I did break one socket extension in the process.