Test

[DMN]

I saved for web from PS to see how that works

DMN

[Steve Foss]

Good stuff, DMN. I use the save-for-Web feature all the time.

Couple dust specks on the sensor most easily seen in the second image that are easy to clone out.

I especially like that third image, which gives the impression the eagle is about on your level.

[DMN]

Thanks Stfcatfish, what do you look for to see the dust specs, I also put some more of these in a new post, do you I cropped to much on the third one.

DMN

[Steve Foss]

DMN, it just takes some practice to get used to what they look like. Dust specks show up as small circles darker than the subject. In your blue sky, they are darker circles, one behind and one in front of the bird. Easily cloned out in post processing software.

Since you asked, I think your crop on the third one is just right. If you look closely at the third image there appears to be a dust blotch (slightly darker and just in front of the bill). It's bigger than those in the second image, which makes sense if the third is a crop.

That's not a critique, by the way, just pointing out something typical of digital photography and easy to fix.

These are very good bird-in-flight images.

[DMN]

Steve, Thanks for helping me see these, I am new to this and am still learning. I have the 20D and may set it for sensor cleaning sometime. I think from looking at other shots that day I also have some spots on my lens, do you just use microfiber cloth to clean the lens end or should you use some solution.

Dan

[Steve Foss]

Dan, in cleaning a lens the less pressure you bear down on the glass the better. I remove dust with canned air. When there are spots, I take a wad of toilet paper, soak it, squeeze out most of the water and swirl it gently on the lens glass. Then I take a soft cotton cloth and gently dry it and then blow off any residual dust/filaments with the canned air. I doubt that's the "approved" way, but it's worked for me over the last several years with no scuffs/sratches to my lens glass. I never like to rub a cloth over a dry lens because it's too easy to get a piece of grit trapped in the cloth and scratch the glass as you rub.

The senor can be cleaned in a few ways. You can use a little air bulb that you squeeze to blow it off, but I've only ever used the wet method, which involves a Pec pad wrapped around a small spatula the same size as the sensor. You put a couple drops of fluid on the pad and swipe it across the sensor and it actually picks up any dust and removes it, whereas blowing dust with the bulb only moves the dust around inside the camera body. Also it's worth noting that you're not touching the sensor itself but a thin clear film placed over it. And it's this sensor cover that requires basically all digital shots to be sharpened, by the way. The wet method I use is the Copper Hill method, and enough materials to last you years only cost about $30 or $35. You can find them online easily enough.

Couple tips on keeping dust off your sensor include turning the camera off when changing lenses and not changing lenses in a dusty environment. Even if you never change lenses you'll eventually get dust in there. You turn the camera off because that deactivates the sensor, which when on holds a static charge that attracts dust. And of course you try to avoid lens changes in dusty areas so the dust doesn't just fall right in there.

I probably swipe the sensors on my 30Ds and XT once a month.

[JR777]

I agree with steve on using the copper hill method. It's more of a sure way to get it clean.

[DMN]

Thanks guys,really appreciate the advice.

I have had the camera about 1 1/2 years (about 2000 shots) and not cleaned the sensor yet, but do as you say on changing lens.

I might take it in the first time and see if I can watch, I am so afraid I will mess something up, kind of funny though, I don't worry much about taking an engine apart and putting it back together.

I have not sharpened these shots as I seem to get halos or the picture gets a little fuzzy, I have to study sharpening more to get the settings correct.

DMN

[Steve Foss]

Dan, the first time I swipe-cleaned my sensor my heart was in my throat.

It's a simple process. The kit comes with directions that makes it a snap. If you can set the points on a distributor with a depth gauge, you have enough manual dexterity to swipe the sensor.

[Steve Foss]

Dan, which program are you using to do your sharpening?

I use Photoshop CS2. When sharpening, I set my radius at .7 and my threshhold at 0, and then sharpen anywhere from 70 to 200 percent, depending on what the pic needs.

The small radius means I can sharpen the image a lot if necessary without getting halos. But you'll want to experiment. Some images are better with a different radius and sharpening percentage and threshhold. These are my default settings, however, and they work for me almost all the time.

I also do a lot of lassoing and sharpening the subject individually. When doing that, I'll lasso just inside the edge of the subject before sharpening, which eliminates the possibility of sharpening halos. I also don't like to sharpen backgrounds, since I like a soft background most of the time.

[Dbl]

DMN, unless things are different for your shop many places won't clean while you wait. In fact down in the cities they send the camera out and it will be gone for about a week or two.

I've demonstrated the Copperhill Method to at least 10 folks and not one of them felt uncomfortable after seeing how its done. The info on the web on using this method is very step by step and extremely easy to follow.

Remember you are not actually cleaning the sensor itself, there is a plastic sheet over the sensor that protects the sensor, that is what you are actually cleaning. It is rare to hear of someone doing damage to the sensor but it has happened.

In the end you will have to decide what is most comfortable for you. Good luck

[DMN]

Steve I use Elements 5, I will play around with settings nere yours,and lassoing,I may have used too much strength. I also have tried unsharp mask at 20,50,0 and this is where I thought the subject looked a little soft.

Thanks

Dan

[Steve Foss]

Hey Dan, just to be sure we're on the same page, when I say sharpening I'm using unsharp mask.

Your Photoshop Elements 5 will perform these tasks with essentially the same results as my Photoshop CS2, I believe.

[DMN]

Steve and DBL

I may order the kit and give it a try, we don't really have a shop around here anyhow, I would have to go to Fargo. Surely don't want to send it away. I had to do that with my 70-300 lens, when that was the only one I had and you would not believe all the opportunities I would see while it was gone.

Thanks

DMN

[Steve Foss]

If you have any questions after looking at the kit directions, just ask.

[DMN]

Steve

With you on the unsharp mask.

DMN

[Dbl]

 Originally Posted By: DMN

I also have tried unsharp mask at 20,50,0 and this is where I thought the subject looked a little soft.

Thanks

Dan

That unsharp mask setting of 20,50,0 is generally used for contrast enhancement not for sharpening. That might account for the softness. My general purpose sharpening settings are 85,1,4 which are gentle enough that it can actually be used twice with excellent results.

If I have an image that is a bit soft I will use a stronger value of 65,4,3. That can do wonders for an image that might get tossed. Even better and I'm not sure if Elements has this is to use Smart Sharpen. And if you want the best sharpening with out color shifts (which is what causes haloing) then sharpen in Lab mode. I actually run an action to accomplish this one.

Keep in mind that Unsharp mask can also increase noise with incorrect settings. One way to avoid the problem is to set a non-zero value of threshold in the Unsharp Mask.

There are literally books written on sharpening and tons of info on the web.

[Steve Foss]

Good perspective, Dan. I like smart sharpen in some situations myself.

When in doubt, experimentation is the key. Make a copy of your original image and it's all erasable after that.

[DMN]

Thanks guys, now I have some excelent starting settings and I need to spend some time trying them out and see if I can get the hang of some of this.

Thanks again for all the time and help I have recieved. I watch this forum a whole lot more than I post as there are is always a lot of info here.

DMN