Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

Brake Issues


UMDSportsman

Question

I know some of you guys know a lot more about vehicles than i do and i have a question for you. I have a 1995 Ford F-150 180K miles. It has disc brakes in the front and drums in the back. When it is slippery out and i step on the brakes the fronts will lock up but i dont think the rear ever grab that well. It does not have ABS and i do know how to brake without it. I was wondering if there is a way to adjust the brakes so they are more even? Is it just worn tires(see below)? If it can be adjusted can i do it myself or do i have to take it in? Is it just because disc brakes grab better than drums?

Other misc background info: I know that the parking brake cables are rusty, but i know/pretty sure those are independent of the regular brakes. My tires are on their last winter, they should be changed soon, but they are not bald yet. Last time i rotated tires all the brakes looked good. I have changed the pads in front, but never messed with the drums in the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

I think you adjust the rear brakes the easy way by using the e-brake. On that model, the rear brake shoes are the e-brake as well. Short of manually going under and adjusting, I thought you might be able to adjust (if everything is free), by driving in rev. and hitting the e-brake in a parking lot.

Airjer or 4wondering might have an easier way, but most likely you will have to crawl under and adjust with (cringe) screw driver or a e-brake adjustment bar. Stuff could be stiff back their and you might need to brake down, clean, adjust or replace parts.

Good luck

P.S.

Activating the e-brake could cause it to seize and lock up, if it has not been used for some time.

Also, how often do you burn threw a set of front brake pads (mileage). If you are getting 20,000 to 30,000 miles on a set, the brakes are doing what they need to do. Some times I have seen the rears last a very long time. Plus, the portioning valve directs a large portion of pressure to the front and less to the rears. They might not lock up, unless from a high rate of speed. Plus if the front tires are thinner then the rears, they will skid first on ice.

Good luck..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If your self adjusters are working backing up and braking should adjust the rear brakes up bit. If that fails to work there is a way to adjust the rear brakes. On the rear drums there should be a little rubber plug that you pull our and inside there will be a little wheel that you can take a screw driver and turn that will adjust your rear brakes. You have to be very careful of over adjusting the brakes doing that, so I wouldn't do that unless backing up doesn't activate the self adjusters.

Your rear brakes never grab as hard as the front brake...keeps you going in a straight line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I don't know if your vehicle is so equipped, but many pickups are equipped with a load sensing proortioning valve that will cause more braking in the rear as more weight is applied. I've seen several that the linkage has either worn or rusted off, leaving the brakes opperating at what ever level they were at when the valve quit working. I'd check that out too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I am not going to use the e-brake, i am pretty sure it will lock up if i do. i did know about the reverse and locking up the brakes, will have to try that again if i can find a clear spot in a parking lot. Won't happen in the lot i park in on campus, they never clear it out.

Macgyver- where would i find the load sensing proportioning valve if it is equipped?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

 Quote:
where would i find the load sensing proportioning valve if it is equipped?

They vary, but generally the valve would be mounted on the frame above the differential and there should be a linkage that attaches to the differential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

These guys are right, the rear brakes are made to adjust while backing up and hitting the brakes, but unless they have been taken apart and cleaned and lubed regularly, they wont work if you drive the truck in MN. As for adjusting, there is a rubber plug in the back of the rear drum backing plate pull that out and adjust the wheel. But before doing that I sugguest removing the drums and inspecting the shoes. If you adjust the brakes and the material is gone, you will need drums very soon. If the shoes are ok, adjust the brakes up when the rear tires are off the ground, and adjust so the wheel has a slight drag while spinning the rear wheels by hand.

Macgyver is correct the proportioning valve should be above the rear diff on the body of the truck, it should have a lever atached to the diff. But check the rear brakes and adjust them before messing with the valve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

The back up trick will likely not work. It doesn't take long for the adjusters to stop turning. They should turn when done manually. After you adjust them you should notice a higher pedal and quicker brake response when applying the brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks for all the help guys. I've had more important issues with my truck come up and i think i will wait until i go home to mess with my brakes. I don't like working in a parking lot unless i have to. At home i should have all the tools i need incase something goes wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.