replacing stator in Skidoo

[Bigbartguy]

hi folks

The shop just told me that my 98 Skidoo Formula Z's stator is bad, which is what I expected. I have the shop manual and the troubleshooting guide led me to the same conclusion, but I wanted to be sure before I spent $300 on a new one.

Theyre asking 300-350 for labor to replace, plus the $300 part cost (ouch!). I'm wondering if anyone here as done this before?

The manual describes how to replace and it looks doable by a layman, but certainly not easy. Just wondering if anyone here as done this? Would you do it again or just pay the money?

[Bigbartguy]

I think I just answered my own question. I took a closer look at the manual. I had to do some of this same work on my jetski last winter and it was a complete p-i-t-a, with the motor sitting on a workbench. No way am I trying that with the motor still in my sled and I'm not up for yanking a motor again this year.

I'm paying them

[Macgyver55]

Its really not that bad of a job. (if you have a warm place to do it) Once the muffler is off, its a clear shot at the recoil (4 bolts) then remove the flywheel nut. Use a puller to pop the flywheel loose and there it is.

But, if you are unsure, or dont have the right tools, let them do it and spend your time riding it instead of working on it.

[Bigbartguy]

I had a very tough time yanking the flywheel nut on my jetski. I heated it up, couldnt get it off, again and again. I think I finally REALLY heated it up with a propane torch (like 15 min or so) and was finally able to break it free with me dangling from a 6ft breaker bar. But that was with a rag stuffed in a cylinder to keep the motor from turning. Not quite sure how I'd keep the motor from turning in this instance, since the head would still be on it? any thoughts McGuyv?

Is timing one of these very difficult? the instructions sound like a bear.

I have all of the tools and a heated garage, thanks to the jetski motor replacemnt last year. Geez, now you've got me actually thinking about going for it...

[CalderPointCabin]

this is not a hard job. i could do this job for you in less than a couple of hours. is this a 583 motor or a 670?

remove the pipe, canister then recoil.

then you need to stop the crankshaft from turning. i use a soft cotton rope and slide it into the mag side spark plug hole with the piston about 2 inches down from tdc. the flywheel nut obviously needs to turn counter clockwise to come off. there's no need for heat if you have the correct size socket, driver and have the crank locked from turning.

make sure you mount the new stader in the exact same mounting location as the old one. use a dab of blue locktite on the mounting bolts. use some blue locktite on the flywheel nut and torque to atleast 70 foot lbs when re assembling. install the recoil, exhaust and your good to go.