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how to winter roses?


iffy

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You can do these two tips if you'd like.

Trim them back, and then dig a trench along side the back, and bury the entire plant in the ground. Then next spring pull it back out.

The other, is they make "cones" out of styrofoam that you can put over your plant, and fill it up with leaves, peat moss, etc. The goal isn't to keep the plant from freezing, but rather to keep it from temp. flucuations in the spring, which may cause the rose to start to green too early (60 degree days in Feb/March) and then be damaged by freezing temps.

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I've tried both methods suggested by LwnmwnMan2, and I've found that his first option has been more successful. The cones (IMO) are hit and miss..some of my plants did well, while others (the next one) died using the same application. Roses can be tricky up here in MN...

Good luck!

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We did a study when I was in school on over wintering roses...

The only reliable way to over winter them is to do the 'tip' method. As LM2man replied, you will be burying them. Rose cones are less than 50% reliable depending on the severity of the winter. We had from 10% survival to 60% one winter (lots of snow) in which the cones were totally covered by snow drifts. Doing nothing had less than 10% survival.

No winter protection (other than some snow) are needed for hardy roses (rose shrubs). The methods we are talking are for Hybrid roses and tea roses, etc.

Good Luck!

Ken

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Thanks to all of you for your insight and tips. I will trim them back and bury them. Its another chore, but beats buying new roses. In the past I used the cones or pails, and I figured there had to be a better way. Most of them are 3 ft or so high. Would you say to trim them back to 8" or so?

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It's a tough call in Minnesota. I've tried both methods and usually end up with about a 50% survival rate. After many years of replacing bushes, I've switched to the more wild varieties and they survive without any covering. Good luck.

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Hey Steve: Wanna buy a backhoe?? Just kidding. I am going to cut mine back to 8-10" although by looking at the U of M info it seems they bury the complete plant. Then I am going to set a bale of straw on each in lieu of the 18" of leaves they suggest. Hope it works. At 20 bucks or so a pop it gets old replanting every year.

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I decided to try the minnesota tip method on raspberries that I didn't think were hardy enough for n.e. mn. It worked out well last year. I will probably do it again this year, but it does make for a considerable chore in both fall and spring.

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