Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

towing lights problem


kooba

Question

Need some help. I have a F-150 and am having touble getting my trailer lights to work. Heres the problem. I have the male connecter that shows the lights right off of the truck. When the headlights are off on the truck everything works,even when I hook up the trailer. When I turn my headlights on, only the running lights work and no blinkers or break lights. What could be the problem? I checked fuses under the hood and back wire hookups to the female end and everything seems to be ok. Any ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

make sure that you have a good ground fron the truck frame to the trailer frame, i had a similar problem with my suburban, it might not have a good ground and it will work funny, you can use anything to test it before buying anything jumper cables or any wire just make sure you have a good ground, then if thats the problem make it permanent hope this works for ya

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Kooba, does this happen with or without the trailer hooked up? If it only happens with the trailer hooked up then I would agree that there is likely a ground issue with the trailer. Do the vehicles brake lights and turn signals still work when the trailer ones don't?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

This happens when the trailer lights are not hooked up to the truck. I have the connector that lights up when the blinker,brakes,taillights are on. Everything works great untill I turn the headlights on the truck. Then only the tail lights work but no blinkers,brakes. What could be the problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Is this a factory trailer wiring or aftermarket? Do the brake lights and the turn signals still work on the truck with the headlights on? What year ford? Is this a four way connector?

If the lights on the truck work but the lights on the connector don't work and it has an aftermarket wiring setup I would suspect the aftermarket wiring.

If the above is true and it has a factory trailer package than knowing the year would help.

Sorry for all the questions but the more info we get the easier it will be to narrow down the possibilities

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

The first thing I would do if you have the "inline T connector" is to remove it and plug the factory harness plugs back together and see what happens. I've run into these before that are corroded internally but look fine otherwise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Blinkers and tail lights still work on truck with lights on but not down on trailer tow. Not sure if it is factory or aftermarket, I bought it used. The ford is a 2000. The connector is a 7 round to a 4 flat. Wires are all hooked up correctly. When I first found the problem, I noticed under the hood their was no left turn fuse and also one of the fuses was blown for the tow package under the hood. Put new one in. I'm thinking its the ground, what can I do to fix the ground on the truck?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Now I'm kind of thinking your adapter has gone bad. Of course I forgot the diagram at work but I do have something for you to try. This will at least tell us if the 7 way is supplying what it should.

With a test light connected to a good ground and the running lights turned on and the four way flashers also turned on check for power at the tail lamp, right turn/stop, and left turn/stop pins of the 7 way connector. If all of these are functioning correctly then I would check the ground of the 7 way by carefully placing one end of the test light on the tail lamp pin and the other end on the ground pin, the test light should light up. If it doesn't or is dimmer than when you tested the other pins then I would suspect the ground is bad on the 7 pin connector. If it lights up then I would suspect a bad 7 to 4 adapter.

Hope this helps!

7waytrailerjl1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.