Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Mounting Photos


Recommended Posts

I am entering a photo contest for the first time and the rules are that "All photographs must be mounted on matte board or foam board no larger than 1/4” thick (not poster board) and without frames". Any help on how I should do this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can make a matted, mounted, ready-to-frame print package with mat and foam. You cut the mat to fit in a commercial frame. So if you will want to put it in an 11x14 frame, cut the outer dimensions of the mat to 10 7/8 by 13 7/8. Then cut the inside to size to fit your image. Or you can just buy ready-cut mats from big box stores or photo shops.

You actually hang the print to the mat with a long piece of tape. Don't tape around the sides and bottom, because as things shrink and swell it'll buckle the print and create waves in it.

Once that's done, you cut a piece of foam board the same size as the outer dimensions of the mat. Then take spray adhesive designed for photos and spray the outer couple inches of the foam board, where it will adhere to the mat. Then put the two together and press.

In order to keep things clean and pure, it's best to wear light cotton gloves while doing all this. If you don't, you should at least be sure to wash your hands thoroughly to avoid getting skin oils and dirt on the print or mat. If you mark up the mat a bit by accident, a good pencil eraser should clean it up OK. You also want a perfectly clean working surface, because nothing seems to pick up dirt or animal hair or grit more than the mounting or framing processes.

You sure don't really have to mount them in a size that makes them ready to frame, but if you're making an enlargement and it's a standard size (not a funky crop) and you're going to the trouble of mounting it in the first place, you might as well mount it ready to drop into a frame later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks,

I will get to work on it. By the way, I love your photos, I really like the flowers and the Little Indian Sioux River shot. Great stuff. I just started shooting digital and I recently bought a Cannon Digital Rebel. The camera is great and I still have a lot to learn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roy,

Steve is right on--you need to mount your photo directly to the foam board. If you go to Blick's or Michaels you will get the foamboard for a whopping $2.00 a sheet (3ft by 4ft). The spray you need is called *photo mount. It will not harm your photo. You simply spray a light coating on the foam board and then place the photo right on top of the sprayed board. The trick to it is to turn the pic ove and rub it out. To do this you need a very soft, and very clean, cotton cloth. Once you place the photo on to the board, then start at one corner immediately with the cotton cloth and press down squeegeing out the air pockets and pressing the photo down to the board. Then go from the middle out, unitl the photo is firmly down against the board. Make sure that the glue does not extend past the edge of the photo or it will get on your cloth and then you'll rub the glue across the top of photo. This isn't hard--just make sure that the foam board is cut to the exact size of the print before spraying and applying the print. I have been selling my prints for years and have used this exact technique for every mounted and matted print I have ever sold. I am in the process of doing 26 of them this week, as I have a huge portrait order.

It's not that difficult of a process, but it will definitely give you a very professional looking entry if done properly. Good luck with your contest, and please, post some photos. I'd love to see the one your entering in the competition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just noticed you are in Woodbury--If you have any problems with this, you can give me a call at 952-466-DUCK

I'd be happy to walk you through the process. If your not opposed to the drive to cologne (about 45 minutes) I would help you do it as I have all of that here, including the mat cutter which you'll need for smooth sharp edges on the foamboard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom, I'm with you on almost everything you said. However, a mat cutter isn't needed to make sharp edges on foam board. A very sharp blade from a carpet knife does the job when used carefully with the help of a straight edge. We have a mat cutter, which my wife uses with great dexterity, but I cut the foam board backing and do all the assembly, and I've never used a mat cutter to get those edges. Certainly, care must be taken, because it's easy to tear the foam board if the blade is a little dull or the cutter moves too quickly. Good thing is, foam board is so cheap that a little trial and error is no big deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big Roy,

Give "hemlock" a shout over on the Canadian side.

He is a master and has all the answers to your framing needs.

Hemlock and his fine staff have a awesome frame shop up in Kenora Ont.

He is a very helpful young man and he will guide you in the right direction.

Holaey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.