wild violets

[MNmikew]

I've been fighting these for years and they're taking over my lawn. Trimec does seem to hurt them a bit but never enough. I read about a chemical that is made just for these little buggers but I cant remember what it was or what brand used it. I belive it was chlor-something. Anyone have any luck eradicating these lil demons?

[Steve Foss]

Hm, I've had good luck against violets with Trimec. I haven't heard of a chemical that specifically targets them. Maybe Powerstroke is familiar with that. Otherwise, a question for your state extension service Web site may be in order. They know everything, or they know how to find the answer for everything.

[Powerstroke]

I'm doing some research on this in some of my literature that I've gained through the years. I'll get back to this tonight.

[Steve Foss]

Here is what the U of M Extension service Web site has to say about controlling violets:

"The meadow violet is difficult to suppress, but an herbicide containing triclopyr can reduce populations in a lawn. Triclopyr is absorbed by leaves and roots and is readily translocated throughout the plant. Because triclopyr is a broad leaf herbicide, it cannot be sprayed or allowed to drift onto plants other than lawns. This herbicide is labeled for turf grass use; when applied according to label specifications it should not affect an established lawn.

The best time to spray herbicides on perennial weeds is September through early October when plants are storing carbohydrates for winter and the following spring. No significant response may be seen in fall, but results should be apparent in spring. Do not apply herbicide when rain is expected within 24 hours, or preferably 48 hours. Read the label and caution information before applying any herbicide.

A healthy lawn is the strongest defense against weeds. Maintaining a regime of proper mowing, watering, and fertilization will enable any gardener to combat weeds in a lawn. Contact the Yard and Garden Line or your local county Extension Office for information on lawn maintenance and fertilization. You can also visit Extension's HSOforum, then click onto Horticulture and Gardening. Extension's URL is: http://www.extension.umn.edu "

MNmikew: I'd be willing to be that, if you've got a big population of violets, you'll have to apply this every fall for a few years running to take the starch out of your population.

I have also found that mowing the lawn to leave the grass taller rather than shorter helps keep weeds from coming back once the lawn is healthy and full. Most common lawn weeds, though not violets, thrive in the sun, and a thick tall-mowed lawn (say, 2 1/2 inches tall when mowed) will help block sunloving weeds from getting established. Of course, most like their lawns with that short manicured look, which means they have more watering and weed killing to do.

[Powerstroke]

Trimec is a good product and another one I found is named "Confront". They are both reecommended for violets.

To be more techincal you can look for any products containing 2,4-D AND triclopyr (needs both in same product) or Clopyralid AND triclopyr. These are both combo mixtures of two chemicals that together produce great results.

The extension info was good in suggesting applying in the fall for best results. The second best time to apply is in the spring while the plant is flowering. At this time the plant is soaking in sunlight and nutrients to replenish itself from the rigors of spring in producing new leaves and flowers.

As a recommendation, I would apply 2 times in the fall at 14 day intervals. If you don't have a pump can i would get one and make sure its got a nozzle for a fan pattern with a fine mist spray. The smaller the droplets the more contact you make with the plant leaf. If you buy concentrate, don't be tempted to mix it extra strong. This will kill parts of the plant without giving the chemical time to work through the entire plant. Follow label instructions for best results.

None of these treatments matter if your lawn is more suitesd to weeds than turf. You need to be doing proper watering, and mowing your lawn tall. stfcatfish suggested 2.5" as tall. Since you live in Blaine, I would suggest keeping it 2.75-3". The height of the grass will shade the ground keeping it cooler and slows evaporation. Also, bluegrass style lawns do much better with longer grass. Your area as you probably know is very sandy naturally and needs lots of watering.

You can have a "manicured" lawn without it looking like a putting green. If thats what you want then you need different species of grass that can handle short mowings.

I won't lie, violets are probably the hardest thing to get rid of next to creeping charlie, but i've killed both before. The key is proper cultural practices combined with chemical treatments.

[MNmikew]

Thanks Catfish, Pwrstroke! Thats just the info I needed. Now I just need to find some of this triclopyr stuff. I usually try to hit them hard in the fall with trimec. I can vouch for how hard they are to kill. My yard is almost 3/4 acre so I have a lot of em. Once they go dormant in the fall my lawn looks pretty dang good. I bought an ATV mounted sprayer this year, it will get a workout this fall you can bet on that!