Let me start by saying that I have no skills when it comes to tools or working on anything mechanical. It always takes me twice as long to fix something compared to a normal person…but I like to do things myself so I give it a try. So please keep that in mind when you read the following:
I am planning a trip to Lake Vermillion next week…so I thought this would be a good time to check the bearings/hubs on my boat trailer. This trailer is new to me…just bought it this past spring. The previous owner didn’t use it much…just basically to put the boat in at the start of the season and to pull it out at the end of the season.
I took both hubs off and replaced one set of bearings due to a little evidence of water/rust. I noticed both hubs were basically filled with grease. When I replaced the bearings in the one hub, I packed the bearing really well with grease and throw some back into the hub…but not nearly as much as I had found when I first removed it. Is that good enough? Both tires spin freely with no play or noise.
Also, I noticed that the castle nut was not secured with a normal “cotter pin” but with a rather thick straight pin. Both pins were destroyed during the removal process. I replaced them with cotter pins that seem to have done the trick. When I pumped up the zerk (sp?) with the grease gun, I noticed the grease came out of the cotter pin hole…..and this made me curious of how and where the grease had gone before when the pin hole was filled with the thick straight pin. Does this sound right?
Last question! I bought some Bearing Buddies to replace the old covers..which were just hard plastic caps with a rubber plug. Do I need to remove the zerk from the shaft before placing the Bearing Buddies or do the just fit right over the top….or is that even possible?
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
Question
cliffy
Let me start by saying that I have no skills when it comes to tools or working on anything mechanical. It always takes me twice as long to fix something compared to a normal person…but I like to do things myself so I give it a try. So please keep that in mind when you read the following:
I am planning a trip to Lake Vermillion next week…so I thought this would be a good time to check the bearings/hubs on my boat trailer. This trailer is new to me…just bought it this past spring. The previous owner didn’t use it much…just basically to put the boat in at the start of the season and to pull it out at the end of the season.
I took both hubs off and replaced one set of bearings due to a little evidence of water/rust. I noticed both hubs were basically filled with grease. When I replaced the bearings in the one hub, I packed the bearing really well with grease and throw some back into the hub…but not nearly as much as I had found when I first removed it. Is that good enough? Both tires spin freely with no play or noise.
Also, I noticed that the castle nut was not secured with a normal “cotter pin” but with a rather thick straight pin. Both pins were destroyed during the removal process. I replaced them with cotter pins that seem to have done the trick. When I pumped up the zerk (sp?) with the grease gun, I noticed the grease came out of the cotter pin hole…..and this made me curious of how and where the grease had gone before when the pin hole was filled with the thick straight pin. Does this sound right?
Last question! I bought some Bearing Buddies to replace the old covers..which were just hard plastic caps with a rubber plug. Do I need to remove the zerk from the shaft before placing the Bearing Buddies or do the just fit right over the top….or is that even possible?
Thanks for your help.
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