Let me start by saying that I have no skills when it comes to tools or working on anything mechanical. It always takes me twice as long to fix something compared to a normal person…but I like to do things myself so I give it a try. So please keep that in mind when you read the following:
I am planning a trip to Lake Vermillion next week…so I thought this would be a good time to check the bearings/hubs on my boat trailer. This trailer is new to me…just bought it this past spring. The previous owner didn’t use it much…just basically to put the boat in at the start of the season and to pull it out at the end of the season.
I took both hubs off and replaced one set of bearings due to a little evidence of water/rust. I noticed both hubs were basically filled with grease. When I replaced the bearings in the one hub, I packed the bearing really well with grease and throw some back into the hub…but not nearly as much as I had found when I first removed it. Is that good enough? Both tires spin freely with no play or noise.
Also, I noticed that the castle nut was not secured with a normal “cotter pin” but with a rather thick straight pin. Both pins were destroyed during the removal process. I replaced them with cotter pins that seem to have done the trick. When I pumped up the zerk (sp?) with the grease gun, I noticed the grease came out of the cotter pin hole…..and this made me curious of how and where the grease had gone before when the pin hole was filled with the thick straight pin. Does this sound right?
Last question! I bought some Bearing Buddies to replace the old covers..which were just hard plastic caps with a rubber plug. Do I need to remove the zerk from the shaft before placing the Bearing Buddies or do the just fit right over the top….or is that even possible?
I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought.
Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just
buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
Congrats on the motor! I think you’ll like it.
I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers. 160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.
Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor. Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to
get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius)
says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe. I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho. Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
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cliffy
Let me start by saying that I have no skills when it comes to tools or working on anything mechanical. It always takes me twice as long to fix something compared to a normal person…but I like to do things myself so I give it a try. So please keep that in mind when you read the following:
I am planning a trip to Lake Vermillion next week…so I thought this would be a good time to check the bearings/hubs on my boat trailer. This trailer is new to me…just bought it this past spring. The previous owner didn’t use it much…just basically to put the boat in at the start of the season and to pull it out at the end of the season.
I took both hubs off and replaced one set of bearings due to a little evidence of water/rust. I noticed both hubs were basically filled with grease. When I replaced the bearings in the one hub, I packed the bearing really well with grease and throw some back into the hub…but not nearly as much as I had found when I first removed it. Is that good enough? Both tires spin freely with no play or noise.
Also, I noticed that the castle nut was not secured with a normal “cotter pin” but with a rather thick straight pin. Both pins were destroyed during the removal process. I replaced them with cotter pins that seem to have done the trick. When I pumped up the zerk (sp?) with the grease gun, I noticed the grease came out of the cotter pin hole…..and this made me curious of how and where the grease had gone before when the pin hole was filled with the thick straight pin. Does this sound right?
Last question! I bought some Bearing Buddies to replace the old covers..which were just hard plastic caps with a rubber plug. Do I need to remove the zerk from the shaft before placing the Bearing Buddies or do the just fit right over the top….or is that even possible?
Thanks for your help.
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