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floats....which one to use


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We've seen a lot of traffic here on this forum lately about fishing plastics and which floats work with what. Lets try to simplify this a bit for everyone.

Floats are like the baits we use....everyone has a pet. I have used a million different floats over the years. Some work well when fished one way and yet another might shine when fished in a completely different way. There are no solid answers....we all butter our bread in different ways.

I happen to find favor in the Thill mini-stealth float as many of you know. I think this is the best float for fishing panfish with plastics that was ever developed. I have fished with some of the Gapen products and now limit the use of those to when the grandkids are fishing and are using bait. The trimmable foam floats, Wave busters, found here at FM's tackle City are another good bait float in my opinion. The generic float market will even offer up some great tools if you look hard enough. But Thill, in my opinion, makes a mess of good floats to cover every kind of fishing application imaginable.

As we get into the float arena, lots of things need to be covered. In dealing with panfish, it is the up-ward hit that becomes an issue. Hits of this nature are very tough to detect if the float doesn't possess the ability to transmit that information visually to you. And this can be achieved in only a couple of solid ways....a float that "relaxes" or lies over on it's side or the float that allows itself to rise up in the water. Those stick shaped floats from Thill with a narrow balsa body come to mind here here as do those with the "bulb" shaped float very low to the water with the sticksitting quite high. The latter float requires the angler to "balance" it with split shot and this is one reason I simply have not used it much. I want my line/ lure presentation as light and unfettered as possible.

The foam trimmable floats mentioned along with the narrow bodied balsa floats from thill are the second best option if fishing the mini-stealth is hard for you to get accustomed to. The trimmable foam can be cut down for balance. The balsa floats come in several size options and are easily recognized by the need for two of the rubberbands to secure the float to the line. (A little note here now, those who think that the stick balsa floats will lay over if just one band is used will soon meet with frustration as that flopping body on the cast will wind you up in an ugly fashion!) The foam float is more a slip float but seems to work moderately ok with jigs down to the 1/32 range and provide free line passage.

When rigged properly, these stick floats will simply become much taller at an up ward hit than when it is at rest and has the weight of the jig under it. This "lift" is fairly recognizable if the water is not rough. And indeed, if the hit from underneath provides enough lift, these too will lay down on the surface.

There are other floats out there that will serve this same purpose, but they are not near so sensitive as these being mentioned and sensitivity matters here. I make no denial here, that I do carry a number of this style of floats in the box along with my favored mini-stealth. Sometimes they do have their place.

My justification for pushing the mini-stealth is simple. Where an upward hitting fish might only cause a rise of a 1/4 inch, the mini-stealth WILL fall right over. If the other floats mentioned need to rise an inch to do that and you cannot see that 1/4 inch of lift, you are going to miss that fish unless it hooks itself on the bait ejection.

There are countless float makers and countless styles of floats to choose from. The ythree that I have mentioned to extent here only reflect those floats which I personally use for my crappie and panfish fishing with the mini-stealth being far and away the favored float. Will others work for you? You have to make that decision. But when deciding which one to use, stop and give some serious thought towards what any float will do for you if the hits are coming from underneath and continue up. That up ward hit is by far and away the most difficult hurdle to cross in the hit-detection department and is the single reason why many people are simply not fishing artificials like hair, maribou and plastic successfully.

The choice of float is but one component towards being a successful panfisherman. Rods, reels, lines all become key elements in catching these fish. But that float on a properly balanced rig will tell you more than anything will. If you let.

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As usual Tom...Great Post!

But I have a question, say your using these mini floats and you have a stub grub on a 1/64 or 1/32oz jig, how are you able to get any casting distance? I like to stay away from the fish. Last weekend I tried a small Thill float w 1/64 jig and plastic on 4lbs test, with a 9 1/2 ft steelhead/crappie rod and in a wind gust I could maybe get it 10feet. Is this normal when downsizing? Thanks Tom

And for those who are wondering about using a steedhead rod for crappies. Yup, it works great! I have 2-10 1/2 and a 9 1/2 footer. You get longer casts, more line take upon the hook set if in windy conditions. The are other advantages, but one of my favorite thing about that long rod is watching the big bend when you hook up! grin.gif

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I've often considered getting my 10'6" out for the same purpose. I guess that your question about the light jigs and small float and casting distance are points to look at. That long rod has a lot of flex taking place in it to drive that small offering out, even with 4 pound line. In the wind, much of the energy in the rod that you get is lost due to drag.

Remember, you have to match the tackle. The long rod would work good for pitching or dabbling from a distance. Casting requires that the rod load up and you can't do it with nothing there....ie the 1/64 jig. You would be much better off with a very light action rod of say, 6'6". Line will matter a lot with a 1/64 jig....maybe drop down to two pound. The shorter rod puts the weight much closer to the handle allowing for more load to develope. The lighter line will have less drag.

The longest of my crappie rods is 6'6". I have no problem casting a 1/32 head on 4 pound with a #2 mini above everything and can cast easily with the float set at five feet. Of course the shorter the distance from bait to float the greater the casting distance you can achieve. But if you are trying to get back that distance by using a rod of great length you will have to have shoulders like Hercules to load that animal.

Think about this too.....the wind affects the entire length of that long rod with additional drag meaning you have to work harder to gain momentum at the lure to carry it any distance. At the same time, the line going thru the extra guides over that length creates it's own drag and is ALSO affected by the wind resistance even though it flows thru guides. The only way I could see fishing a rod longer than what I use now would be if the wind were at my back all of the time. How often does that work out?

So you know here too, I don't fish a 1/64 anything except thru the ice. First off they behave badly as you have found out and secondly there is not enough hook gap on those small jigs to use them effectively with the plastics I use. I do carry a few 1/48 minnow heads that I use for vertical presentations when fishing demands it, but that is usually during extreme cold front situations. And they are used only to give a slower drop rate. I still have to tip the hook's point well out to allow for the plastics.

Don't get me wrong here...If you like the extra length and can deliver well with it, go for it. But for the average , mainstream type of fisherman even a rod of 7 and a half feet would be frustrating with a bit of a breeze to work against. Length equates to fine tuning and most fishermen simply won't take the necessary time to do it.

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Thanks Tom for the quick answer!

Say one other thing, What size jig head are you using for your stub grub? On the other threads they are shown with 1/64 and 1/32. I don't like fishing that light, but I like the looks of those baits. As far as my 10 1/2's I haven't really found a problem casting it,even with some wind. I only use it for bobber fishin' I maybe use a little bigger float w/a shot above the jig, but in the spring I haven't found it to really matter a whole lot where I fish. But I understand the need to match your gear and I guess in a way I do match what I use. All I ever use to use was shorter rods, and had good luck, but now I guess I enjoy using the long rods. And I love the looks I get. shocked.gif

Thanks again, and have a good opener!

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If I can piggy back off the topic and diverge a little:

Regarding long rods, what about the bream poles? Seem like a good way to reach out with very light stuff. Anyone ever tried them?

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Cyber....I cast most all of my own jigs and make the ones up for the stub grubs in 1/32 with a #4 hook insted of the recommended no.6. For that matter, I put the oversize hook (at least by one size) in all of my jigs.

You have a good opener as well!

Deeky.... those humongo bream rods are a southern addiction. They use them extensively for the "spider rigging", but are also used widely for dabbling in wood and weeds from a distance where a vertical drop is required. That extra length allows a person to fish his/her way into the wood from the outside without disturbing the natives. I have never found the need for them here, but I have seen people using them- some successfully, some with dire results. They would work great from shore in a few places I fish in that fashion. As for casting? I see a nightmare in the making. lol

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I can't get away from casting bubbles.

They cast very well, are visible at decent distances, and have sensitive strike detection.

They swim to the side easy, float up with the "hittin' up" Crappies, and go down easy with little resistance.

They come in a few different colors as well, so those that have a preference in "contrast", you can have you're pick.

They also come in clear, if spooking the fish is an issue.

I have also used them as leaders for fishing with poppers. Works great!

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