Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Trolling for Muskies??


Recommended Posts

i completely agree there are some spots that cannot be trolled, and others that can be but not as effectively as casting. there are also spots that can be trolled but not casted, and spots that can be casted, but not as effectively as trolling.

i fish a couple spots on a river near me with depths of 40'+, in which the fish seem to hold on or near bottom. there is no effective way to fish these structures other than trolling or vertical jigging. i have yet to find a lure that will cast to the depth needed in that situation. or take the mud flats on mille lacs. casting, your lure will barely get in the zone before your lure is back to the boat. can catch them casting out there, but trolling is a more effective tactic for getting lures to the right depth and keeping them there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always start on the windblown shore especially if the wind has been blowing the same direction for a couple of days. Everything tends to get pushed to that side. First the plankton, then the baitfish which follow the plankton and finally the predators following the baitfish. If fishing midlake humps I start on the wind blown side but will check the backside. Just like wingdam fishing on rivers. Last point, a shift in wind direction doesn't mean the fish immediately move so when hitting the lake pay attention to the wind direction for the last three days prior. Don't rely on that days wind direction to determine what the windblown shore is. Took me awhile to figure that one out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

Just to throw in a reminder. With the spread of Eurasian Watermilfoil at the pace in which it is going, in 20 years it will be imposable to troll.

Save a Troller. Check your boat at the landing.


I disagree with this statement. What about the edge that the milfoil creates? Minnetonka is one huge weed line. I would agree that on some small lakes the milfoil might not leave much room to troll but it certainly will not end trolling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm right there with you markkstanley with every word you said.

The one thing on the wind blowen side of the lake I look for is the fingers of deeper water that point into the bays and shoreline that the waves are hitting. The water under the surface is going the other way and is pushed down making rip tides that cut these channals (fingers). Try to think of it like a water fall. The finger is where the water is moving fastest and at the tips of the humps between the fingers the slowest. Somewere on the hump the water flow parts. This can be a true honey hole for large Bass. Not all humps are the same. Find the right one and you cracked the code. Just off these humps and closer the the points you will find the Pike and such.

After the wind dies down for awile the fish tend to scatter untill the wind blow again. The wind doesn't have to blow very hard to set this up but the 2-3 day thing is a must.

When casters (which I'm one of) say trolling is the lazy way to fish I allways have to smile. When I'm trolling the windy side of a lake with a 20mph side wind blowing and I'm trying to hit a 10yd square area 50yd ahead with a lure that is 70-100' behind the boat. Well casting that protected bay on the othes side of the lake with all the other fishermen sure does look like the eazy life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My best advise is not to become a one dimensional fisherman.

Casting and trolling both have their time and place. I have pictures of over a dozen muskies caught trolling that go from 38-45lbs... I can't think of one of those that could have been reached casting... Probably have another dozen or so past 50 that couldn't have been caught any other way then casting...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh yes, I do my share of casting. Pound the weeds.

I'm from the Large Mouth Bass part of the state. The last 3 state record lg Bass came from Lakes less then 20 miles from my home.

In this area the weeds take quite a pounding and the 10-20 foot range is left mostly undisturberd. When I locate fish I do cast, cast, cast.

What I try to get through is lake maps do not tell you the whole story. To get the finer points you have to get out there and put it under the boat. Look at it with your depth finder and fish it. Sounds like trolling to me. Use you GPS and map the area. Mark the areas were you catch fish casting and trolling with waypoint. Build up a image of the area from the weeds to the deep water. Keep track of wind, Moon and cold fronts.

Don't just work the weed line. Don't just work the docks. don't just troll with crank-baits.

To say one is better then the other is like saying a 2 wood is better then a 9 iron. I wouldn't go to play gulf and only play the greens. Hey you can't get the ball in the hole without the greens but it is only a small part of the game.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.