Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Kdrill/pistol Bit Flighting Question.


Hawg

Recommended Posts

Why does K drill have the unusual flighting and pistol bit the traditional style? I used a K drill and wasn't impressed (please don't bad mouth me I just didn't like it) because it seemed to bind and had to be continually lifted to clear the flighting. Being an Ion owner I'm also impressed with the Eskimo shaver blades. Incredible durability, smoothness, and they stay sharp for me unlike lazers. Anybody know the science behind flighting and if the Pistol bit would clean holes better. It's too early to get owners opinions on the pistol bit because the only guys that have them are the ones that get paid or free product to say great things about them.

Also-Eskimo HSOforum says 8 inch is a full 8-may or may not be the case.

Edited by Hawg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, the K-Drill does seem to bind and bog down needing frequent clearing. I use Mora Strikemaster, and Eskimo bits. Buddies use ION all work well with better ice shaving dispersing. I did some research on auger flights looking for an alternative to build an auger. Acquired some grain auger flights 7” pitch. Note the design has 5/6 flight, no gap when stacked. (Labeled Grain in pic). I included pics of the K-Drill, Pistol, Nils & Mora Hand Strikemaster. K-drill & Pistol use poly flights with Hex shaft. Other 2 are welded steel to smaller steel shaft. Also note the K-drill has 6 flights with a gap between every 5/6th turn where Pistol has 3 flights & Nils 4 to achieve total lift distance. Also note the dia. Of the K-drill is much larger than the others reducing feed depth, (amount of room between shaft and pitch dia.). The Mora has 5.625 pitch height about same for Nils, looks like Pistol has close to 7” pitch with polished surface and K-Drill closer to 4.4”. The pitch on the Grain is also 7”. I believe the smaller pitch distance, open gaps between flights an smaller feed depth is creating the binding on the K-Drill

20181124_073931.png.2cda5f00bf67a61abe379c3698dc1e4b.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing a little more checking I didn't notice till yesterday the Pistol does't have a centering tip, which made a TON of difference in the ease of use on my newer ION.  I would have thought Eskimo would have learned a lesson and put a tip on it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, papadarv said:

I agree, the K-Drill does seem to bind and bog down needing frequent clearing. I use Mora Strikemaster, and Eskimo bits. Buddies use ION all work well with better ice shaving dispersing. I did some research on auger flights looking for an alternative to build an auger. Acquired some grain auger flights 7” pitch. Note the design has 5/6 flight, no gap when stacked. (Labeled Grain in pic). I included pics of the K-Drill, Pistol, Nils & Mora Hand Strikemaster. K-drill & Pistol use poly flights with Hex shaft. Other 2 are welded steel to smaller steel shaft. Also note the K-drill has 6 flights with a gap between every 5/6th turn where Pistol has 3 flights & Nils 4 to achieve total lift distance. Also note the dia. Of the K-drill is much larger than the others reducing feed depth, (amount of room between shaft and pitch dia.). The Mora has 5.625 pitch height about same for Nils, looks like Pistol has close to 7” pitch with polished surface and K-Drill closer to 4.4”. The pitch on the Grain is also 7”. I believe the smaller pitch distance, open gaps between flights an smaller feed depth is creating the binding on the K-Drill

20181124_073931.png.2cda5f00bf67a61abe379c3698dc1e4b.png

 

I think your examples are right on. The K-Drill chews up a lot of ice fast but the flights don't pull it up the hole well like the others and it just makes a nice slushy in the hole. That's why they suggest to keep pulling it up during drilling is to clear the chips out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Hawg said:

Doing a little more checking I didn't notice till yesterday the Pistol does't have a centering tip, which made a TON of difference in the ease of use on my newer ION.  I would have thought Eskimo would have learned a lesson and put a tip on it. 

 

My thoughts exactly. Still tempted to try to put some sort of center point on my Ion, but afraid it will mess up the blade design. These things can be a bear inside a wheel house on rough ice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rickwalley said:

Papadarv,

the pic of the Mora auger blades doesn’t look like what I’m used to?  It almost looks like there is some sort of centering bit and also some half circle areas of the blades are removed?

 

I think on another post he said that he added the point and did work on the blades. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Leech, correct. I modified my 8" Mora Strikemaster blades per pic. I had a single centered point like the one on my 10" Eskimo. Didn't work well. Found a design that solves add on center point challange. The point of the center point is off set 1/4". I put this point on 3 bits. All work.great.

20181124_143004.thumb.jpg.6bfff79b125ece72efff1bb46c549d97.jpg

 

Edited by papadarv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Yeah it was a beatdown
    • Your kid needs to stay with him!👍
    • My kid was eating in Beverly Hills and ran into this guy. Talked to him a bit and wished him luck in the game tonight.     
    • 🤔as a recovering machinist!🤣🤣that must make me a recovering welder!
    • As a recovering machinist, I can appreciate that.  If the spec is 0.001 - 0.0015, then clearly the correct measurement is 0.00125, duh…
    • I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought. Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
    • Congrats on the motor!  I think you’ll like it.   I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers.  160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.   Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor.  Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
    • I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius) says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
    • You're very lucky a troop of Sea Monkey's didn't carry you away.   
    • Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe.  I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho.  Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.