If you are still hand cranking your boat lift & are worried about how hard it is to install an aftermarket electronic boat lift motor, let me put your fears to rest. First, I did my research on which boat lift motor to purchase. I called around & asked questions. The technical support for EXTREME MAX & what you get for the price for the Lift Boss motor; they were the best. I really like the water proof design of the motor case. The motor does not just sit out in the elements. They have a 2 year replacement warranty. Plus, they are local in the Lino Lakes/ Hugo MN area! You deal with people when you call! If there is a warranty issue, they fix it there on site. They do not need to send it out. They know their products inside & out. They answered all my questions fast. You can get the motor in an AC (120V) or DC (12/24 volt). You can choose just a key-turn, wireless (comes with key backups) & a cable model. Since my dock sections are a total of 150 feet long, I choose the DC model & I liked the fact of wireless as well. The only difference between the 12 volt & 24 volt system is you need a jumper wire, (2) batteries hangers & (2) batteries. The only difference in performance would be the speed of the lift. If you buy the solar charger, you need to buy a 12 volt or a 24 volt system. They only work with one or two batteries so you need to make your decision at first, not upgrade to the 24 volt system later. I would have maybe preferred the cable option instead, but I bought the LED canopy light that works with the wireless option only. The light is a very nice option when coming back at dusk or at night! I could not believe how well it lit up my boat lift.
Once I found my tools, it took around 30 minute to install. This was a one person install & very easy. They have step by step instructions that are very easy to follow as well. I have this installed on an older Shore Station 4000# lift so your install pictures might be slightly different then my pictures. The first thing you do is make sure you boat lift is at the lowest position & secure your boat off the lift. You do not want any tension on the cables. I then hung my battery hangers & batteries under the canopy. Next, you remove the acorn nut holding the manual wheel on. You do not just pull the wheel off; It’s spins off. Now, you remove the brass washer & the brake (ratchet wheel). Next, you remove the brake dog (clacker pawl). Just take the bolt out & remove. You do not need these parts with the new motor, but keep them in case you ever need the wheel again. Next, remove the cotter pin on the spindle bolt. Then, pull out the bolt & then remove the spindle. Replace the spindle & bolt with built in lock with the new boss lift parts. No cotter pin is needed. I love that design! Next, install the new torque arm & slide the boss lift over the new spindle with supplied bolting. I plugged in the boat lift motor in after I installed the batteries cables. I then zipped tied the LED light & wires to the canopy & plugged my LED wire in to the boat lift motor. Tighten the bolting & you are ready to put your boat on & raise it on the lift. The other nice thing about this lift motor is if your batteries go dead, it has a drill attachment spot so you still can raise or lower the lift.
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😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular 😪
we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables, winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).
I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.
For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.
I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches. I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.
This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.
I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware. But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.
I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.
If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?
Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess
My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.
Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.
above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out
here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there
here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
Question
walleye44
If you are still hand cranking your boat lift & are worried about how hard it is to install an aftermarket electronic boat lift motor, let me put your fears to rest. First, I did my research on which boat lift motor to purchase. I called around & asked questions. The technical support for EXTREME MAX & what you get for the price for the Lift Boss motor; they were the best. I really like the water proof design of the motor case. The motor does not just sit out in the elements. They have a 2 year replacement warranty. Plus, they are local in the Lino Lakes/ Hugo MN area! You deal with people when you call! If there is a warranty issue, they fix it there on site. They do not need to send it out. They know their products inside & out. They answered all my questions fast. You can get the motor in an AC (120V) or DC (12/24 volt). You can choose just a key-turn, wireless (comes with key backups) & a cable model. Since my dock sections are a total of 150 feet long, I choose the DC model & I liked the fact of wireless as well. The only difference between the 12 volt & 24 volt system is you need a jumper wire, (2) batteries hangers & (2) batteries. The only difference in performance would be the speed of the lift. If you buy the solar charger, you need to buy a 12 volt or a 24 volt system. They only work with one or two batteries so you need to make your decision at first, not upgrade to the 24 volt system later. I would have maybe preferred the cable option instead, but I bought the LED canopy light that works with the wireless option only. The light is a very nice option when coming back at dusk or at night! I could not believe how well it lit up my boat lift.
Once I found my tools, it took around 30 minute to install. This was a one person install & very easy. They have step by step instructions that are very easy to follow as well. I have this installed on an older Shore Station 4000# lift so your install pictures might be slightly different then my pictures. The first thing you do is make sure you boat lift is at the lowest position & secure your boat off the lift. You do not want any tension on the cables. I then hung my battery hangers & batteries under the canopy. Next, you remove the acorn nut holding the manual wheel on. You do not just pull the wheel off; It’s spins off. Now, you remove the brass washer & the brake (ratchet wheel). Next, you remove the brake dog (clacker pawl). Just take the bolt out & remove. You do not need these parts with the new motor, but keep them in case you ever need the wheel again. Next, remove the cotter pin on the spindle bolt. Then, pull out the bolt & then remove the spindle. Replace the spindle & bolt with built in lock with the new boss lift parts. No cotter pin is needed. I love that design! Next, install the new torque arm & slide the boss lift over the new spindle with supplied bolting. I plugged in the boat lift motor in after I installed the batteries cables. I then zipped tied the LED light & wires to the canopy & plugged my LED wire in to the boat lift motor. Tighten the bolting & you are ready to put your boat on & raise it on the lift. The other nice thing about this lift motor is if your batteries go dead, it has a drill attachment spot so you still can raise or lower the lift.
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