TIme to get those trees trimmed!

[Powerstroke]

January has come and gone! Half of winter is gone and spring will be here before you know it. DOn't wait too long to get those trees trimmed.

If you've got elms, oaks, apples or any other tree that benefits from dormant pruning, now is the time to get that scheduled. Whether you do it yourself or hire and company, the time left to get it done will go faster than you think.

This is also the time to plan for any tree or lawn treatments. If you've had issues with Apple Scab Anthracnose or another fungal disorder, early spring is the time to do the treatments. Don't wait until leaves are out and the grass is green. By then it will be too late and the disease will have already set for the year. Many of the diseases do not have a curative treatment, so if you want to prevent your landscape for suffering through another early leaf drop or yellow lawns, treat early. Its easy, very effective and generally cheap.

[delcecchi]

From Extension at the U of M for apple scab on ornamentals.

Quote:

Fungicides must be applied preventively to successfully manage apple scab. Because spores are released so early in the growing season, fungicide sprays must begin when the first green leaf tips emerge in spring. Sprays should be repeated until petal drop for crabapple. If the tree is healthy and free of leaf spots at this point, further treatments are unnecessary.

Check fungicide labels for the recommended spray interval. Most labels offer a range of days to wait before spraying again. (e.g. 7 to 10 days after spraying, you will need to spray again). Several factors affect what spray interval is most appropriate. In plantings where there was a severe scab infection the previous year, use the shortest interval. In plantings where scab has not been a problem, a longer interval will probably give adequate protection. In addition, if the weather is dry the longer interval is acceptable, whereas during rainy weather the shorter interval is preferable.

Once leaf spots appear in the tree, fungicides provide very little control of disease. There is no point in spraying an already heavily infected tree. Contact a certified arborist to apply fungicides to large trees. Chemical treatments are listed in the table below.

The name of the plant being treated MUST BE LISTED on the fungicide label or the product cannot be used! Some products are registered for use on ornamental crabapples but are not safe to use on crabapple or apple fruit intended for human consumption. Always completely read and follow all instructions on the fungicide label.

( different instructions for food apples.)

[Dotch]

Here are a couple links to U of M fact sheets about scab:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/trees-shrubs/managing-apple-scab/

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/apple-pest-management/apple-scab/

Now, we have never had an issue with apple scab here even though we have relatively susceptible trees. Lots of factors involved but I suspect a big part of it is sanitation and relative distance from other apple trees. We never leave apples on the fruit trees and clean up under all the apple trees including crabs every spring after pruning. The wind roars through here like a freight train so lord only knows where the leaves end up. We also prune the living snot out of trees so air movement is very good. Air movement is usually very good as the 2 1/2' - 3' snowdrifts covering the dooryard this afternoon would attest.

I am getting itchy to prune. Already did a few small branches here and there that ticked me off during the mowing season. Lots more to do as the smaller trees we've planted keep growing. Much easier to prune and shape them when they're that size.

[Powerstroke]

Great links to the extension office.

LIke I said, if you've had issues with scab in the past, the time to plan is now. Once the leaves are popping you are late.

I no longer work for any of the companies so I have no vested interest anymore, but I am always happy to share if you have symptoms to discuss or you're wondering about treatment plans. There are a few guys on here who still this daily that can help recommend treatment options too. I'm not super familiar with the newest best pesticides, but those aren't always the best.

The best treatments are the ones that do the most prevention with the least amount of chemical. No chemical is always better so follow recommendations for mechanical controls such as pruning, watering and fertilizer. A healthy plant rarely needs chemical intervention.

[delcecchi]

A healthy plant rarely needs chemical intervention.

If there are a lot of apple trees in the area and the humidity is high, it will take chemicals. Likewise apple maggots. Your sanitation etc is of little help if others in the area do not do the same. The link to the "integrated pest management" for apple trees is quite good.

[Powerstroke]

I know. My statements come from 10 years of tree experience. My comments are for those with ornamental yard trees.

If someone is running an orchard, they likely aren't looking to me or internet forums for their advice.

WHat I saw every year is people have a plan in mind for their yard trees that usually involves waiting for a tax refund, or waiting until its nice out because they do not understand the need for dormant season pruning. Most people also do not understand that the vast majority of fungal disorders can only be controlled using preventative measures that need to be applied long before anyone starts thinking about lush leaves and lawns.

Every year we would get a backlog of work from people who wanted tree pruning done and it was too late. I'm just saying if there was something you were concerned about last year, nows the time to give someone a call.

[delcecchi]

Yes, pruning is best done on dormant trees, and can help with disease. But apple scab, at least in southern Minnesota, can't be controlled by pruning and sanitation alone if the trees are susceptible varieties.

Spraying chemicals at appropriate times is necessary. You are correct that the appropriate time starts quite early.

[chanfish]

powerstroke;

i had ash tree with white spots all over and leaves fell early last year..do i need to spray that? is there a site that tells you what to use and how to do it? can i do myself?

i have sparkling crab with the apple scab..can i do that myself or how does one do that? ladder and sprayer?

[Powerstroke]

Most apple trees can be done by the homeowner with a common garden hose and a sprayer attachment. Most garden centers will have the right kind of sprayer and the fungicide. Apple scab is easy to prevent, but the treatment gets difficult because the scheduling of the treatments are rather strict. Generally its 2-3 treatments starting at budbreak and then consecutive treatments 7-10 days afterwards. FOllow the instructions of the fungicide for best results, but thats a typical treatment plan for scab. If the tree is of a manageable size that the pressure in your garden hose can help spray over the entire tree, then you can DIY.

Now that you understand what is involved in a smaller tree, you can understand why larger trees such as ash can be difficult for the DIY homeowner. Larger trees require pressure pumps and spray guns designed for 20,40,60ft spray patterns.

The symptoms you describe could be a fungal disorder or from an insect problem on the ash. DO you have any pictures or remember any other details about the damage? What do you mean by "white spots all over"? Was it on the leaves? When they begin to fall? WHat did the leaves look like? DId they shrivel up and dry out?

[delcecchi]

Might try this diagnostic tool from UMN extension

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/ash/

[Dotch]

Very nice! Bookmarked that baby.

[delcecchi]

Your tax dollars at work.

[chanfish]

here are pics (i hope) of the ash with white spots and the crab with scab.

[Dotch]

It's a little tough to tell from the picture but the spots give the appearance of being raised, making me suspect the spots are galls. Galls are generally caused by insects and/or mites.

[chanfish]

ok. thanks...i googled galls and ash and this looks like it..no treatment or control recommended...

[Powerstroke]

You got it. Galls are generally very benign and frankly difficult to control. Except for the spots on the leaves where the mite has gotten between the layers of the leaf, it does very little to harm the plant.

[Dotch]

Finished the last of the fruit/other tree pruning yesterday. Something that was noticeable was the fairly large amount of leaves still on the apple trees as a result of the frost that shut them down last fall. Will need to make sure we rake up well underneath yet once this snow gets done horsing around. Used some of the apple wood last night with the lamb chops I made. Dayim they were tasty!