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flluorocarbon breaking


kt

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This past weekend i busted off a couple two pound bass on 14 lb fluorocarbon during the hookset. I don't exactly know what the problem was. However, i recently read an article on another fishing HSOforum that said that basspro Aaron Martens quit using the palomar knot for fluourcarbon because he had problems with the knot breaking. I was using a palomar knot when i busted the fish off. Just wondering if any of you have had this problem before with fluorocarbon. I know fluorocarbon burns really easy if its not wet before cinching the knot, but i always wet the line before tying the knot. I'm kind of confused as to what the problem was. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.


thanks,

kt


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That happend to me also, I'm not sure what causes that to happen but I learned not to swing for a home run when setting the hook. You might want to try a double improved clinch knot. Also I pull the knot tight very, very slow and in my mouth until it's tight. What kind of line is it??

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I use floro for all of my snells, but have not used it as a primary line (really see no need).

But I do know that when you cinch the knot, you MUST wet it before drawing tight or it will break very easily. I too use a trilene and have had no problems, as long as I wet it first.

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Floro can be tricky to work with, expecially when tying knots. With floro its best to tighten the knot when its wet, heat makes the line weak, and Floro heats its self up when pulling the knot. I think you will have less problems if you wet the knot before you sinch it up. Give that a try!

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Sorry Tom ole buddie ole pal... That just makes you look that much smarter... I was just adding to what you said... O.k. maybe I missed what you said...

Think of all that great bait I sold you back in college... Cut me some slack!.. LOL

Deitz Dittrich

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This is not criticism! But, have any of you seen a difference in using flourocarbon over clear or green mono while bass fishing. I use it as leader material in ice fishing and summer fishing with walleyes, and I have noticed a big difference there. But, if you're fishing around weeds or any other cover, has it had any impact on your catch? Most of the line profile is camoed by the structure you're fishing.

I've observed nothing but problems (i.e. break-offs, massive wind knots, big coils) when it comes to bass fishing. The stuff doesn't seem to take a liking to repeated casts.

Someone, enlighten me. smile.gif

------------------
Ray Esboldt

Catch-N Tackle
MarCum
Stone Legacy

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I've switched over to spiderline on all but one of my baitcast reels that one I use for walleye fishing. It has vanish on it and works when I need it for bass. I can't stand it when you make a perfect cast just to have your reel look like 2 rats had a fight with it. I don't get that with the spiderline unles I really wip it out there, but then your asking for it. And it's not as hard to get it out.

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Like I said, I use fluorocarbon (Vanish) on all of my rods. I like the fact that the line sinks, which I think keeps me in a little better contact with the bottom.
I started out with it on just my jigging and worm rods and liked it enough to try it on everything else.
I also think I get a little better sensitivity, but at this point that could all be a mental thing since I have a lot of confidence in it.
More out of curiosity I tried it on the jigworm rods this spring and I also liked it. I use 8 pound and that comes off nice and casts real well for me.
I think one of the keys with fluorocarbon is using lures that are a little heavier. That fits the way I like the fish. I could probably get by using mono on half of my rods, but I do think simplifying things always helps.
Like has been said earlier, the key is to really get the knot wet before pulling it firm.

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