Rebuilding Tandem axle trailer

[randerson]

So I came across a tandem axel utility trailer last fall and stripped the deck down and redecked and undercoated the frame I went threw the bearings and repacked them and discovered that it had brakes on both axles but they were shot and been cut apart so I have decided to replace the brakes on one axle and I'm wondering if it should be the front or rear axle that has the brakes this trailer does have 6k axles and currently only registered for 4.5k I have replaced all the lights to led and run all new wiring and put on a new tongue jack this trailer will only be used a few times a year for hauling firewood and possible a small bobcat 4500# so I want to put brakes back on it and I'm going to replace the drums as well than register the trailer with a higher capacity when finished just not sure if I should install the brakes on the front or rear axle

[LightningBG]

Rear. Or better yet, both.

[Macgyver55]

I believe that in Minnesota you have to have brakes on both axles of a tandem trailer.

Quote:

A trailer manufactured after June 30, 1988, is required to have brakes on all the wheels in the state of Minnesota. This is applicable to a trailer with a gross weight of 3,000 pounds or more, or a trailer with a gross weight exceeding the weight of the towing vehicle

[randerson]

Well a lot of trailers do not have brakes on both axles and the front axle is the correct one because generally there is more weight over the front axle and I got this information from e trailer unfortunately the axles that are on the trailer are some older ones and have I believe hayes brakes on them and I have not found any to replace the units ( been told that they might be old trailer house axles but most trailer houses I see have 5 lug and these are 6 lug) that are on there and might have to replace the axle if I'm going to have brakes on this one.

Thanks

[Surface Tension]

I just got done replacing surge drum brakes and actuator on a tandem trailer.

Old spindles with the oddball bearing sizes so finding a drum/hub was impossible unless I found and old one laying around somewhere.

This trailer had 8" drums and hub separate and they don't make 8" trailer brakes any longer. I bought 10" slip on Ranger drums to go over the spindles. Then went with a complete 10" TowZone brake assembly.

I'd imagine your in the same boat I was. Since my tandem was for a boat I went with hydraulic.

You didn't say if the trailer has electric or hydraulic brakes.

Does your tow vehicle have a brake controller?

What size are your rims? It matters because it might or might give you the possibility of disc brakes.

Do you have hubs or integrated hub/drums and if so what size?

[randerson]

They are electric yes I do have a brake controller I think they are 12"x2" drums but the assembly it self is a 4 bolt brake assembly not 5 like I'm finding

[Surface Tension]

They make a 4 bolt flange 12" assembly.

Hayes Trailer Brakes - 185150 Note that they are almost twice the price of a 5 bolt flange.

Your drums, are they a hub/drum or a slip on drum over a hub?

What are the ID of the inner and outer bearings?

That information matters, if you have an integrated drum/hub with odd ball bearings your

not going to find one. If you have a slip on drum then your best bet is running to Napa

and hope that you get a counter person willing dig a little for drums. You might also considering using the old drums and have them turned.

If they are these size then your good to go but by the pictures they don't look like it.

Inner Bearing Size (in.) 1 3/4

Outer Bearing Size (in.) 1 1/4

Compare the price and availability of new seals and bearing for the oddball spindle.

In the long run you might be better off with a new axle and new standard brake assembles.

For $200 plus an axle you'd be Tow Zone Electric Drum Brake Kit — Pair, 12in., Model# 56122

[randerson]

I'm not sure of the bearing size at hand as the trailer is up north at the moment but yes the drum and hub assembly are one and I agree that replacing the axle and assembly together would be my best bet. Thanks for all the help

[LightningBG]

I dont think the answer is as simple as "put on front because more weight"....

There are a ton of factors coming into play when braking with a trailer.

First of all, if the trailer has an equalizer between the axles, as soon as the weight shifts forward, the front tire gets weighted, pushing up on the front side of the equalizer, pushing down on the back of the equalizer, therefore pushing down on the back tire, equalizing the load on each axle. All instantaneously.

Second, if when the vehicle brakes, it dips the nose and lifts the rear of the vehicle, therefore lifting the tongue. This is counteracted by the shift forward in weight on the trailer.

Now, the trailer as a whole is shifting weight forward (but not necessarily onto the front axle, due to the equalizer), the lift on the back of the vehicle is minimized....

Since the back tires are so close together, imagine them as a single axle (especially since there is an equalizer), and imagine the vehicle/tow hitch as the front axle). Most of the stopping power is in the vehicle, just like most of the stopping is done with the front axle of a vehicle on its own.

From another trailer place.... (trailersrless.com)

Quote:

When only one brake axle is being installed on a tandem axle trailer, the brakes should be on the rear axle for maximum system performance. Rotational torque applied to axles during braking shifts the equalizer and applies more weight to rear axle. If brakes are installed on the front axle, the wheel may skid during braking. Brakes on rear axle are more effective as the equalizers shifts and the rear tires dig in to the pavement.

Brings rotational torque of the brakes onto the axle into play.

Now.... this is all just stuff to consider. Some places say front, some say rear. Probably pretty close to the same results if the jury is still out.

But for my sake, the rear seems to make the most sense.