Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Wife wants to raise bees...any advice


tacklejunkie

Recommended Posts

Honey Bees are relatively easy to take care of because they basically take care of themselves. The advice I tend to give people when just starting out is to start out small. get 1-2 hives to start out with and see how they work for you and your lifestyle. Don't worry to much about where they will get there pollen since they will fly 3-5 miles circumference of the hive to find the pollen, and join a local beekeeper organization, by doing this you can get advice on your hives, and even some beekeepers will allow you to join them for a day in working their hives to see how you like it and help you learn to work yours. Good Luck and have fun!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good stuff dnice! Will add one info sheet found on the U of M's Extension HSOforum. It gives several sources of info including lots of fact sheets, etc. The U has some pretty good researchers working with bees including people like Marla Spivak whom I've heard speak a couple times. Not a beekeeper myself but recognize their importance to all of us.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/Bees/about.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We are friends with two of our local bee keepers. We have one of them bring us two stacks of hives each year to ramp up our truck garden pollination. The difference in production is astounding!

One of our sons is a little allergic to bee stings, and they seem to hunt him like he's covered in honey, so we have to keep the hives down by the river behind our place. This also helps to give the bees a close source for water. That way they're not always buzzing around the house whenever we hit a patch of dry weather. Having the hives several hundred feet away from the house means we rarely have any problems with them what-so-ever. Hornets and yellow-jackets are another story entirely.

I'd recommend contacting a local bee keeper, and see if you can simply "tend" one or two of his boxes on your place for the summer. They're typically pretty happy to have a new place to put a few hives, and will often simply give you some honey for your help at the end of the year. They're also obviously a wealth of knowledge when it comes to caring for bees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The U of M offers a short one day course on beekeeping, I highly recommend it, I took it before I got bees.

Its kind of a spendy little hobby by the time you buy hives, tools, bee suits, helmets, extracting equipment, sugar, meds. Also time consuming, to do it right you should go thru your hives once a week.

Consider the whole extracting process, where you're going to do it, it takes a warm, clean location, with lots more equipment.

Those are some of the cons.

The pros of beekeeping is that you get lots of honey, plus its facinating, I used to sit on a bucket by the hives and watch them come and go. When I moved I didn't start up my hives again, but I kept my equipment, maybe some day I'll start up again. Plus I found a local guy that would sell quarts of honey at a good price, no sense in my spending my time and money doing it.

Have fun!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Blackjack, the short course is a fantastic way to introduce yourself to this great hobby. The upfront costs to beekeeping can be pretty expensive but in my opinion well worth it.

I don't want to discourage you from starting, but it may be just a little late to start this season. Typically orders for packages of bees are finished by now. Generally speaking, you want to place "packaged" bees into your hive a couple of weeks before the first plants start to produce pollen. Starting from scratch, the bees will need time to "draw" out the foundation into actual comb where the bees can manage their brood, honey, and pollen stores.

Since, a newly started hive doesn't have stores of honey and pollen a new colony needs to be supplemented with sugar-water and pollen substitute. This will allow your hive to sustain itself until Spring actually arrives and they can sustain themselves with natural pollen and nectar. As a general rule, a beekeeper should be going into each hive roughly every week or two to inspect it. A bit more often when feeding sugar syrup.

Generally speaking, honey isn't harvested the first year a colony is established. You want to make sure the bees have plenty of honey to survive the coming winter. If everything goes well, your starting colony will survive winter and then you would end up "dividing" the overwintered colony next Spring. The parent colony would end up being your honey producer the following Autumn.

If you're still interested in giving it a try I HIGHLY recommend you get "Beekeeping in Northern Climates" it's an inexpensive publication produced by the University of Minnesota that will give you everything you need to know on keeping bees in Minnesota. I believe that book is given out at the short course as part of the fee you pay in attending the class. It can also be purchased here...

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG7553.html

I hope this helps!

Grapeapplepie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.