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big thank you!


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ran 15 hours straight not an issue other than that up pipe leak... Hope to resolve that tomorrow! Also parked it outside to try a true cold start... Fired right up at 2am when I went to go plow last night... I still had a OP low code... come threw sometime... but no CEL, and when reset it has not come back on... I am sure it still has some bugs to work out of its system... but it honestly runs better than it has in 6 months... So, hopefully get the up pipe readjusted and the leak fixed... and the boost gets back where it should, and the terrible noise and slight hint of exhaust smell in the cab goes away...

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ok, soap... Got my turbo pipe realinged and clamped down... leak is gone... took it for a small/short spin... brought it back and gave it a few revs just to listen to it... after second longer rev it died instantly again, and now crank/no start again... any ideas? It runs so dang well when its running... no codes... oil pressure gauge comes up once it is cranked a bit... seams to me like it has to be some some simple little wire/fuse/relay something... currently have charger on the batteries again...

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Sure sounds like a sensor shorting out, or the IPR cutting out, or a FICM going bad.

In order for this engine to run, it needs (sensors) a good cam shaft sensor and, crank shaft sensor signal, and IPR to regulate high pressure oil.

It needs a minimum of 450 psi of high pressure oil in order to start, it can drop below that after it has started, but not by much. It needs the FICM to produce a minimum of 45.6 volts to the injectors in order to start, but it will run, below 42 volts, until it stalls. It should stay above 47.

Josh, a scan tool would be a good friend with this thing, without one, you are just blindly guessing. If I had spare time, I would come over, but I dont think I will have much for free time until next week end.

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Thats where I was leaning towards on it here... I don't know where to start right now without any codes to go off of... let me see what I come up with here, I may just have to let it sit until I can get ya to scan it for me... With the ICPS plugged in, I get 0 on the bully dog for fuel pressure readings, as well as IWP (i think) readings... When I unplug it, I get the reg readings on both, but still no start. I did replace the ICPS the other night while trying to get it running, still do not think the old one was bad, but had to try something...

I will be in touch... thanks for all the help thus far...

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what two sensors are on the oil cooler? I assume one is oil temp... But if I believe there are two plugs... the other thing is possibly around the turdboo area... which would be the IPR if I understand correctly... but, It would be hard for me to believe it ran before, and has ran so well after repair, with a bad oil pump, or the FICM, which leads me more towards a damaged sensor or electrical issue with harness etc...

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yup, thats what he said... Said he thought you worked with his brother... Dan runs a shop just south of my place a few miles... he does good work... just doesn't like messing with these 6.0 diesels... I usually check with him, but if its anything to do with under the hood he doesn't like to touch them...

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Okay Scott,

so after waiting on getting this thing scanned, the only thing he came up with was low fuel pressure... And then was supposed to come back out to run a test on the fuel pressure side... I have not heard back from him at all, and have not got ahold of him... so, I decided to pull the turbo tonight and check the ICPR, in which I found this... The screen was concave and torn, it appeared to be clean on debries, however I assume about anything that was on that was sucked threw into the injectors... (potentially why the old ones failed??) So, I have a new ICPR on order, and I think I am going to check with ford and see if they can get an STC update kit... Question is, is it worth pulling that HPOP to do this, or with what I found with the IPCR, do I assume that was just the issue, and put it back together? The HPOP doesn't look terrible to pull except the heat shield... I would prefer not to do more than I have to cost wise, however, if its cheap insurance I would rather do it now... I am getting good at pulling that turbo!

Another question, I believe there is supposed to be a insulation wrap around that ICPR, which there was none. And, the ICPR was black with soot (most likely caused by the leak I had on the y pipe side of the turbo I had...) So, do I need to find another one of these heat shields to protect the new ICPR, or fashion one up, and Is there a good possibility that the extra heat cooked that ICPR?

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thank you again for the help thus far!

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I would just replace the IPR, then if it doesnt work, then go after the HPOP. To do the HPOP, you need to pull the intake, the turbo, the, pull the HPOP cover, its about a 10 hour job. Most likely the IPR will fix it.

As for the fuel pressure? did he hook an actual fuel pressure gauge to it, or are you referring to the ICP on the scan tool? If so, that is High pressure oil.

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not really sure what he did... When I talked to him, he said the scan said there was a code for low fuel pressure, (which I knew, and knew was oil pressure issue) but he said he was coming back out with a FP test kit to make sure it wasn't the fuel pressure... But, he never called me with his findings, and we have been out of town for work, so i don't know what he found... or if he showed up the second time... This is why I wanted to be here when he came, because I was hoping more so to make sure the FICM and what not where reading correctly and narrow down the possibilities... I have had terrible luck with this particular shop previously with this truck... so not real surprised, but the guy has always been real nice to work with...

I had a hunch the IPR was the issue... and should have just pulled the turbo and checked it out... I think there is a very good chance that will be the answer...

If and when the STC needs done, do I have to pull the intake being there is no EGR cooler present? Looks to me as the whole cover is exposed easily... but maybe not...

I figure I will fashion a heat wrap around that regulator when I reinstall it, I think I have some material handy I can use, just won't be a fancy snap on wrap...

I guess I will no more sunday afternoon once I have my new reg. and can get it put in...

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So Far! Lol... Two good days of plowing on it without any trouble. Runs nice and smooth like it used to... got a telehandler to move 30 miles this week, so we will get to see how she does under a good load...

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Scott, any time or interest in work on this POS here? Not positive, but I think the Head gasket blew tonight... Had trouble mid day at the job site, it was missing on 2 cylinders... Then i fired it back up after it sat for a but and it cleared itself out of it... and on the way home it died on the hwy after about a half hour of driving... got it pulled off and tried firing it... it acted hydro locked and would not turn over... then after a few mins it did turn over and fire with lots and lots of white smoke... Initial analysis after this is the oil seamed high and the over flow bottle low...

Only code shown in Bully is cylinder 3 cont/balance....

Just let me know... at this point I do not expect a speedy repair... but need to get it going... sooner the better, but can get by without it for a little bit...

If you are not interested I think I will just tug it to Ford and be done with it... It'll cost me... but If the head gasket went, thats probably more than I want to tackle...

I Don't see much other options for what went... unless it could be something to do with the oil cooler... the EGR is gone... so that didn't blow... but very similar symptoms to when the Egr burst...

Thank you!

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Dam 6.0's!

Sure sounds like a bad head gasket, these 6.0's dont like power chips, especially if the new head gaskets and stud kits havent been installed on it yet. The other option is if an injector oring blew out, and it hydro locked with diesel, or even oil.

The big question, would I be interested in doing them?

I will tell you doing it there wouldnt work for me at all. To many needed tools, and too many hours away and trips there and back. It really doesnt interest me much to do it there.

To be honest, I am not to interested in doing the job right now, if it were summer time, maybe. But it would take up my garage until I was done, and it is too cold to do it outside, and to be honest, they just really suck to do in ideal conditions. Not a fun home job at all. I think I will have to pass on the job. Sorry.

Just for reference, head gaskets are a 20 hour job, so you would be looking at about $600 in parts, and 20hours x $?? per hour.

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plenty fair enough, I just wanted to check with you before I hauled it to ford... it sure smelled coolent like... and like i said, the oil was over the end of the dip stick, and the overflow was lower than it was... so... sure seams like head gasket to me...

dang thing... what else could go! Jeepers.

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ha, yeah, I just re read my post, I guess I didn't mean work on it here at my place... more just if you where interested here in the near future... Sorry for the mix up! Wouldn't ex[ect you to that kind of project away from your own stuff...

If it goes to ford, do they have updated gasket and studs, or are they the same talk thats in there and I should be looking into aftermarket?

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