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Enclosing a ladder stand with wood


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I bought a 2 man ladder sand (Big Dawg brand) last year for gun season in Wisconsin. It put a camo "enclosure" on the bottom of it but in general was not happy with it and want to box in the sides and the back of in, and try to extend the floor a bit as well. I'll then use the camo cloth to cover the front after I'm in the stand.

The stand is 160 miles away so I'm having a hard time visualizing how I want to do this. I'm headed up there next week and want to make sure to get it completed.

I realize I can't box in the front because I need a way in, and I don't want to impede the ability to raise and lower the shooting rest. I'm not sure if I want to use screws to attach any wood to it and drill through the frame or if there's another method to do it? I'd also like to enclose the entire thing at some point and cut windows in but for right now I want to start with just the bottom half.

Anyone done this before or have any ideas?

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The first thing to think about is weight: Most importantly that you're not making your stand unsafe by adding 100+ pounds (I'm just throwing a number out.) of plywood in addition to hunters, gear, and anything else. Also, it'll be a real bear to put up after you add the plywood. Again, make sure it's safe and no one gets their skull checked for hardness.

The issue that I see is compromising between weight and durability. If you get 1/4" (or thinner) plywood, it may not last very long. If you get 1/2" treated, it'll be pretty heavy, and the chemicals might interact with the stand and rust that out, too.

What about using some kind of flexible plastic sheeting? You could get some heavy-duty zip ties and use them to attach it to the stand. Bring the sheet and zip ties, a thick marker, a nail or two, a big pliers or vise grips, and a propane torch. Bring the sheet and marker up the stand and mark where to cut the sheet to fit outside the frame and where to make holes to run the zip ties through (two holes at each attachment point). Then go back down, cut the sheet, fire up the torch, heat the nail, and burn your holes. Bring up the sheets and zip ties, and go to town.

You can also paint it orange or whatever you want while you're at home.

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I would not alter the stand for safety reasons. You could add a portable roof and use canvas or something for the "walls" that would not compromise the saftey but still add to the comfort of the stand. If you want to make walls and windows I would start over with an all wood stand and leave this one alone.

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Buy a Big Game Partner Plus and their wrap. (Hey Big Game, send me a commission check smile ) I have two and have had the blinds termanently attached with no issues for multiple years. Only con is zipper noise is too loud when the woods are quiet, but you can leave it unzipped knowing if the woods are quiet, there is no wind to move the flap. Elastic straps may weather a bit so using rope or cable instead will last longer.

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The first thing to think about is weight: Most importantly that you're not making your stand unsafe by adding 100+ pounds (I'm just throwing a number out.) of plywood in addition to hunters, gear, and anything else. Also, it'll be a real bear to put up after you add the plywood. Again, make sure it's safe and no one gets their skull checked for hardness.

The issue that I see is compromising between weight and durability. If you get 1/4" (or thinner) plywood, it may not last very long. If you get 1/2" treated, it'll be pretty heavy, and the chemicals might interact with the stand and rust that out, too.

What about using some kind of flexible plastic sheeting? You could get some heavy-duty zip ties and use them to attach it to the stand. Bring the sheet and zip ties, a thick marker, a nail or two, a big pliers or vise grips, and a propane torch. Bring the sheet and marker up the stand and mark where to cut the sheet to fit outside the frame and where to make holes to run the zip ties through (two holes at each attachment point). Then go back down, cut the sheet, fire up the torch, heat the nail, and burn your holes. Bring up the sheets and zip ties, and go to town.

You can also paint it orange or whatever you want while you're at home.

This is exactly what we did with a stand a couple of years ago. I want to say we used clear plexiglass acrylic sheets, .10" thick, cut to fit, and used zip ties to secure. We used frosted sheets to still conceal movement. Very light, easy to put on and take off, and does not comprimise the safety of the stand.

The one challenge that I remember is the sheets have to be tight. The first year someone was sitting in the stand they kept hearing "buffeting" when the winds picked up so we had to re-tighten the zip ties, and we may have cut a hole or two in to allow air to move through...

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Instead of plexiglass try using the election signs tht are made out of plastis cardboard. You can find them everywhere. Wait until after the election and people will be glad to give them to you for FREE.

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Instead of plexiglass try using the election signs tht are made out of plastis cardboard. You can find them everywhere. Wait until after the election and people will be glad to give them to you for FREE.
Just make sure you repaint them camo or you may have some guys using it as target practise if their candidate didn't win! laugh
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Great ideas.. thank you. To be honest, I hadn't thought of the weight factor and that's why I posted the question because I figured there was something obvious. I hadn't thought of.

The plexiglass/plastic cardboard likely solves the issue of how to enclose the sides and it sounds like it might be a longer lasting material than wood.

I know that we didn't do as good of a job of setting the stand as I would have liked last year (long story.. short on time because of a funeral I had to get to) so I have a feeling after getting it re-adjusted and level, the platform issue may not be there. If I've got a "back" on my seat so I can set things on the seat and they can't fall down then I'll be good to go as it's a double seat so there's plenty of room.

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