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Hey / question about recuves

Lentz

By Lentz
in Archery - Bowhunting

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Lentz Apprentice

Lentz

Posted
Posted

Hey well I'm new to this form and I didant see a welcome spot to post why I joined this site I am a avid bow hunter I also deer hunt but now hunting is where my pride lies

I have a 48# recurve at a 28 inch draw and have 2117 aluminum arrows with a 4 inch feather vain and I'm wondering if this is a good arrow and what weight field point 100 or 125

Not planing on hunting with this this fall unless I can get 6 for six in a paper plate at 20 yards have been shooting a little and can do this at 10 and almost 15

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Cheetah Mentor

Cheetah

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I shoot 125gr with my recurve. If you have actual feathers on the arrows, then 4" is probably ok, I shoot 5" feathers. If you are shooting plastic vanes then all bets are off, in my experience they do not shoot as well off of the shelf of the bow because they cause the arrow to spring off a bit and fly wobbly.

According to the Easton arrow chart, those shafts might work.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/uploads/files/51_hunt-sel-chart.pdf

The trick will be to figure out what your real draw length is. The weight written on the bow is measured at 28". If you draw 27", the weight will be less. at 29" it might be a little more.

According to the chart I linked above, the 2117 shaft is in group H.

With 100gr heads your 2117 shaft needs to be about 30" long to shoot out of a 48# recurve.

With 125gr heads your 2117 shaft can be a little shorter at 29", 30" is also ok because the 48# weight is on the edge in the chart.

If you are pulling the bow shorter, like 27", and the weight is in the mid-40# range then you need the arrows to be a bit longer. If you draw long at about 29" and maybe get 50# out of the bow then then 29" shaft will work better.

hope that makes sense...

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Cheetah Mentor

Cheetah

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Hard to say, a recurve's peak weight is when at full draw, unlike a compound. So when drawing a recurve unless you are doing it a lot you might not draw back quite as far because the last inch or two are the hardest. I suggest measuring your arrows and then draw and have someone check how far the point sticks out in front of the bow and work from there.

If the arrows seem to fly well currently, then you are probably fine. Put on some broadheads and practice with those to see if the arrows continue to fly well.

Focusing on your shooting form, clean consistent releases and drawing back completely and with the same anchor point every time will probably help you the most with your consistency.

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Lentz Apprentice

Lentz

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I'm shooting fingers one above 2 under with my middle finger where the kisser on a compound would go and any suggestions on broad heads for it I'm shooting mx-3s by muzzy for my compound and assuming those should still fly strait

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Jason_Gundersen Enthusiast

Jason_Gundersen

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The safest bet is to go to a pro shop and have your draw length accurately measured... Dropoff in poundage between 27" and 28" can be significant... When you go make sure you dont try to "show off" and overpull your bow you want to make sure its your natural draw length to get the best fit

As far as broadheads go, as long as you shoot feathers, just about anything will do... I have shot walmart specials, muzzys, bear 2 blades, and few others and they all fly just fine but I would never consciously shoot over 20 yards at a deer

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Lentz Apprentice

Lentz

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I went out to the range and sometimes when I overdraw my arrows come out weird so I think I'm on the border or 100 and 125 they fly strait most of the time and my draw length is 27 1/2 when I was in my anchore point

The arrows I was relaxed I could just feel try we're going to come off good as I took my stance normally did one of them I called out at 20 yards

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