Recharged My A/C - Very Easy

[1968]

DIY a/c repairs can work out,or ruin everything. Most diy products have sealant in them. Once you put sealer in, it's nearly impossible to remove without total system replacement. If the "stop leak" is moisture reactive you better be 100% sure there is NO air in the system. I've seen pics of grenaded compressors and condensers, 100% clogged lines/valves/orifices from sealants. A real gauge set is needed too. If the high side is too high from overcharging, the compressor will suffer and a rupture is more likely. The "if a little is good, more is better" strategy is used, the car will suffer, cooling will be impaired and personal injury is more likely to occur.

R12 cars are best kept R12. Demand has dropped sharply as the older cars get more scarce. There's plenty affordable freon out there if you look hard enough. A diy retro kit is usually a bad idea. A proper retro can cost as much or more than a R12 recharge. The system should be flushed with expensive solvent, new reciever/drier/accumulator installed, leaks fixed, possible upgrade of the condenser and/or compressor, plus other modifications. You won't find any of that in the box from wallyworld. I've seen some retros work out, most others, never worked again.

If you want it to last and work well, do it right. If the car is a turd, well I guess try mechanic in a can and hope for the best.

[Scott K]

I have converted many vehicles over, without an issue. I have done it the "proper way" and the home mechanic way, and havent seen any different results over time. I now buy a bulk package of the low side adapters for the low side, and just add it through the low side. I have been doing it this way for 5 years, and other then ones that leak, I havent had any come backs about other issues.

[1968]

Not saying it can't/won't work. Sometimes it works very well(mostly on cars with large condensers). But many of the cars I've seen that were changed over have had seized compressors. That pretty much finishes off the ac for good with the budget conscious motorist. A seized compressor or fried clutch plate/hub from excessive high side pressures after service can start a blame game too. Not to mention a possible roadside breakdown if the compressor doesn't have it's own belt.

Not a lawyer, but putting the wrong(according to the manufacturer's underhood sticker) could create some liability for those that charge for conversions. Never been blamed for a broken car after working on it? I had a brake job get blamed for a head gasket oil leak once.

[LMITOUT]

If the car is a turd, well I guess try mechanic in a can and hope for the best.

I'm not going to pay for an A/C job that costs 1/2 of what the car is worth, so that's the theory I'm going with.

[1968]

Understanadble, never seen your car. There are still some old Honda'a that are worth the effort. Everyone has different priorities too. My very first ac job, the car needed 500 bucks worth of ac repairs and 550 to fix the brakes that were currently grinding in the front. Skip the brakes he said.

[LMITOUT]

Everyone has different priorities too. My very first ac job, the car needed 500 bucks worth of ac repairs and 550 to fix the brakes that were currently grinding in the front. Skip the brakes he said.

Funny!

My '90 Accord has 128,000 miles on it, but the way the tinfoil-like body is deteriorating I doubt it'll outlast the engine.

[titelines]

That's what happened to our 1990 Accord. 200,000 + miles on it, rusted through everywhere, started losing the 1/4 panels etc., but it started everyday no matter the weather, ran through snow like a tank, ran like it was brand new and still got 35 mpg. Hated to get rid of it, but it left a pile of rust on the ground wherever we went.

[LMITOUT]

I can relate to the rust piles. My Honda is allergic to pressure washers.

My ol' Accordion got a dose of R134a tonight in anticipation of the heat that's a comin'. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow!