Skeg

[harvey lee]

I have a 50hp 4 stroke merc and I hit a rock and busted about 2 inches off the bottom of the skeg.

I know I can have another repair it but it does not look that hard.

If I were to grind the skeg so the break is straight, then make a new piece and weld that on, what troubles could I possibly run into?

Is there anything I could mess up by doing this myself?

Thanks for any help.

[Surface Tension]

Tom, hopefully the prop shaft didn't bend too.

A lot of heat will be put to the gear case.

I'd drain the lower unit and remove the gears and prop shaft.

Then on reassemble replace the seals and while its off a new impeller.

I'm a cheap skate too but I'd have a shop that specializes in skeg repair do it. I don't believe the repair is that much.

Good Luck.

[jentz]

Do you see any lube leakage?If not how does it handle missing 2 inches? I dont think you'll notice any difference unless its bent, then it may drift to one side.Grind it straight and you can then run it two inches shallower than before.Me I would leave it and install a prop protecter, unless I saw leakage.

[JWB475]

Panther Marine makes a skeg protector that bolts on, you can get it at Cabela's, that might work for you as well.

[JosMN]

I have done a couple skeg repairs myself – one on my old 30hp mariner and one on my current Mariner 60. Both were damaged prior to me owning them. What I did was held a piece of paper at the bottom and drew out approx the size of the missing piece. Next cut the piece out of heavy gauge aluminum (close to the thickness of the lower skeg, or a little less) – test fit and test fit again till it was close. Next I used JB weld to joint them up. This is where it gets a little tricky. You need to not use a lot the first coat and a piece of masking tape or a clamp of some sort to hold the new piece in place till the first coat cures enough to hold it there. Once that is cured I put a heavy coat of JB weld on both sides with a bondo spreader. Let it fully cure again, sand it down smooth and reapply any low areas or pinholes – sand again. Then throw some matching merc paint on it and you are set. I did this to the first one 6 years ago, and my current motor 3 years ago and they are still in perfect shape. Its a cheap fix and you need the patience for the curing process. Make sure to rough up the areas you are putting the weld on too! You could always by one of those chrome skeg covers, but if I remember right they run around $100.

[harvey lee]

I checked the lower unit very well when I got back to shore and no cracks or leakage any where in regards to the lower unit. Runs fine and no vibration that I noticed after I put my extra prop on. A few times I stopped after going 4-5 miles at full throttle to see if I could fell any heat on the outside of the lower unit and found none but the water was only 57 also so maybe not a great way to check for excess heat.

I cannot notice any difference in the boat handling without the 2 inches of the skeg knocked off.

I may just take it in to a shop and have the skeg repaired and have it all checked out as I have good insurance.

I am sure I could do the skeg repair.

[Wish-I-Were-Fishn]

That JB Weld is amazing stuff! I think I would have it done at a shop though if you have insurance.

[paceman]

I have been running my 40hp evenrude for about 2 years with missing 2 inches. No issues to report. I think you would be fine if you chose not to fix it..

[BehindtheHead]

i wouldnt use jb weld it only bonds to the surface. i would just find someone that tig welds aluminum.

also i wouldnt leave it off. if you hit another rock your prop is less protected and will be more likely to bend the prop shaft. there is a reason the skeg is the length it is.