05 Cummins fuel issue on a 2500 Ram

[MuleShack]

I had it idling in the driveway on Saturday and it sounded kind of weak where it was missing and the only thing I could think of was NOT AGAIN!!

My fuel pump went out originally 900 miles after my 100K warranty ran out. I took it to the dealer at that time and they replaced the fuel pump and the injector pump for almost $3000.

Tonight I tried to start the truck and it wont fire...but it sure stinks in the back of it from exhaust fumes. It didn't even get a rumble, just turns over. It reminds me of when the fuel pump went out the first time.

I'll have to check for codes tomorrow, but if it is the fuel pump or injector pump again, does this have to go to a dealer or can any shop do it? Do the parts only come from cummins or can you get after market?

I changed oil back in March along with the filter and I try to change out the fuel filter every 2-3 months. The only other time it wouldn't fire is when the fuel pump went out.

Suggestions?

PS--Valv your pm box is full

[Valv]

Shack, have you to get the codes ? Did you look under the hood and see if there's any leak ?

Try a quiet spot and "bump" the starter (turn the key to start for a fraction of a second) then leave it on. Keep door open, you should hear the pump in the tank buzzing for 30 seconds.

[MuleShack]

It seems like the pump us running...I can hear a humming under the hood and a clicking what seems like it is coming from the tank. But It also sounds like the clicking could be coming from up front also.

I cant find my code reader at the moment...The wife must have organized the garage again

Still wont fire, just turns over.

[Valv]

Just turn the key switch on and off 3 times then leave it on, read the mileage display, it will flash the codes. Even if the lift pump is bad the CP3 injection pump should run with no issues. Chevy Duramax has no lift pump and has same CP3 injection pump as Cummins.

You don't hear the lift pump humming under the hood, you'll hear a buzzing sound from underneath the truck. Have you checked the usual: fuses, etc ?

[MuleShack]

P0191 Fuel Rail Press Sens Circ Range/Perf

P0234 Turbo Boost Limit Exceeded

P0483 Cooling Fan Speed

This is what comes up when it is sitting dead in the garage. I will check fuses and the like now.

I dont hear any pumping or humming from the fuel tank.

Fuses all look good under the hood.

If it is the lift pump, I might look into an air dog 150 and have the shop put it in.

[Valv]

Hmmm. Do you have a chip or programmer on your truck ? There is a TSB for the P0191 as I can see.

All 3 codes shouldn't stop the truck from starting.

[MuleShack]

Everything is stock.

I crawled under the tank and listed and there is no pumping going on, so guessing it is the lift pump???

60K since they installed the replacement.

[Valv]

Does it have a warranty ? I would say go for the Airdog, but you have to get the truck out of there.

[jmd1]

this is going to be a long read but will hopefully yield some info toyour question..

DodgeRam.info > TSB's > 18-005-06 REV. A

TSB 18-005-06 REV. A

Superseded by TSB 18-005-06 REV B. Left for reference only.

Visit Geno's Garage

for Truck accessories.

Date: April 26, 2006 Flash: DTC Correction, Turbocharger Protection, And Clutch Durability Improvement

THE StarSCAN® FLASH FILES FOR THIS BULLETIN MUST BE RETRIEVED FROM

THE INTERNET.

UPDATE CD 6.05 WAS THE LAST CD TO CONTAIN FLASH FILES FOR StarSCAN.

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 18-005-06, DATED

FEBRUARY 15, 2006, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL

REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES THE

ADDITION OF A DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE WHICH WAS OMITTED FROM THE

ORIGINAL BULLETIN.

Models: 2006 DH/D1 Ram Truck Heavy Duty

NOTE: This bulletin applies to Ram trucks equipped with the 5.9L Cummins 24-valve

diesel engine (sales code ETH) built on or after June 9, 2005 through and

including January 31, 2006(MDH 0609XX and 0131XX).

Overview:

This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the ECM (Cummins) with new

software.

Symptom/Condition:

The MIL may illuminate due to one or more of the following Diagnostic Trouble Codes

(DTC's):

P0071 - Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Rationality

P0111 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Rationality

P0514 - Battery Temperature Sensor Rationality

**P0191 - Fuel Pressure Rationality**

Quieter A/C compressor operation when turned on after extended non-use.

Engine speed limitation when cold, to protect the turbocharger bearings.

Special Tools/Equipment Required:

NPN Battery Charger

9097A Special Tool, Bluetooth UConnect Flash Adapter

CH9401 StarSCAN® Tool

CH9404 StarSCAN® Vehicle Cable

CH9409 StarSCAN® Documentation Kit

CH9410 StarSCAN® Ethernet Cable, 12 ft.

CH9412 StarSCAN® Software Update Device Kit

TechCONNECT PC or equivalent

Repair Procedure:

USING THE INTERNET TO RETRIEVE THE FLASH FILE:

NOTE: When performing this Repair Procedure, the software release level in the

StarSCAN®; must be programmed with 6.05_SP4 level software or higher.

The software release level is visible in the blue header at the top of the

StarSCAN® screen.

NOTE: The StarSCAN® diagnostic scan tool fully supports Internet connectivity.

However, in order to take advantage of this feature you must first configure

the StarSCAN® for your dealership's network. For instruction on setting up

your StarSCAN® for the dealer's network; refer to the StarSCAN® Quick Start

Networking Guide available on the www.dcctools.com HSOforum under the

"download center".

NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted.

1. Install a battery charger and verify that the charging rate provides approximately 13.5

volts. Set the battery charger to continuous charge. Do not allow the charger to time

out during the flash process. Remove the charger from the battery when the flash

process is complete.

2. Connect the CH9410 StarSCAN® ethernet cable to the StarSCAN® and the dealer's

network drop.

3. Connect the CH9404 StarSCAN® vehicle cable to the StarSCAN® and the vehicle.

4. Power ON the StarSCAN®.

5. Retrieve the old ECU part number. Using the StarSCAN® at the “Home” screen:

a. Select “ECU View”

b. Touch the screen to highlight the PCM (Cummins) in the list of modules.

c. Record the "Part Number", displayed on the "ECU Overview" screen, for later reference.

NOTE: If the ECM is not operational, the "ECM part number" can be obtained from

the label on the controller. If the label on the controller is not legible, record

the "Reference No." for use later. The "Reference No." is located in the

Reference No. box at the top, center of the Engine Data Plate (Fig. 1). Do not

use the reference number shown in the figure. The Engine Data Plate is

located on the intake side of the breather cover or affixed to the APPS

bracket.

FIGURE 1 - ENGINE DATA PLATE

1– ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER

2– REFERENCE NUMBER

3– DATE OF ENGINE MANUFACTURE

6. Download the flash file from the internet to the StarSCAN®. Using the StarSCAN® at

the “ECU Overview” screen:

a. Select "More Options"

b. Select "ECU Flash".

c. Select “Browse for New File”. Follow the on screen instructions.

d. Select "Download to Scantool".

e. Select "Close" after the download is complete, then select "Back".

f. Highlight the listed calibration.

g. Select "Update Controller".

h. When the update is complete, select "OK".

7. Is “WCM - Wireless Control Module” displayed in the "ECU Overview" screen list of

modules?

a. Yes >> go to Step #8.

b. No >> go to Step #9.

8. Enter the Wireless Control Module (WCM) Secret Key information. Using the

StarSCAN® at the “ECU Overview” screen:

a. Select “WCM”

b. Select “Misc. Functions”

c. Select “PCM Replacement”

d. Follow the on screen instructions.

e. When complete proceed to Step #10.

9. Enter the VIN into the ECM. Using the StarSCAN® at the "ECU Overview" screen:

a. Select “PCM”

b. Select “Misc. Functions”

c. Select “Check PCM VIN”

d. Follow the on screen instructions.

NOTE: Due to the ECU programming procedure, a DTC may be set in other modules

(TCM, BCM, MIC, SKREEM, etc.) within the vehicle, if so equipped. Some

DTC's may cause the MIL to illuminate. From the “Home” screen select

“System View”. Then select “All DTCs”. Press "Clear All Stored DTCs" if

there are any DTCs shown on the list.

NOTE: The following step is required by law when reprogramming a ECM and/or TCM.

10. Type the necessary information on the “Authorized Modification Label” p/n

04275086AB and attach near the VECI label (Fig. 2).

FIGURE 2 - AUTHORIZED MODIFICATION LABEL

1 - POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE P/N (INSERT P/N) USED

2 - CHANGE AUTHORITY: TSB XX-XXX-XX

3 - DEALER CODE: XXXXX

4 - DATE: XX-XX-XX

Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

Time Allowance:

Labor Operation No: Description Amount

18-19-06-15 Module, Powertrain Control - Reprogram

NOTE: Cummins Diesel Equipped 0.4 Hrs.

Failure Code:

ZZ Service Action

[MuleShack]

Does it have a warranty ? I would say go for the Airdog, but you have to get the truck out of there.

Dealer replaced the lift and injector pump at 100,900 miles and I now have 160K on it, so I doubt there is a warranty left on it.

I'm going to call my mechanic in shakopee tomorrow and see if he wants to tackle the air dog install.

I dont think this could be injector related because they shouldn't just fail all at once. It was running fine and then seemed like it was getting shorted on fuel on saturday idleing.

[MuleShack]

Hmmm. Do you have a chip or programmer on your truck ? There is a TSB for the P0191 as I can see.

All 3 codes shouldn't stop the truck from starting.

2 years ago I was in a shop in savage and they wanted to charge me $125 for a computer flash, when I initially took it in to replace some bad injectors. Their computer wasn't working properly at the time so I left...didn't feel the need to pay $125 for an upgrade to the computer.

Is this normal to charge so much for a computer upgrade that comes from the manufacturer? If it is, Is it worth it to have it done?

[Valv]

2 years ago I was in a shop in savage and they wanted to charge me $125 for a computer flash, when I initially took it in to replace some bad injectors. Their computer wasn't working properly at the time so I left...didn't feel the need to pay $125 for an upgrade to the computer.

Is this normal to charge so much for a computer upgrade that comes from the manufacturer? If it is, Is it worth it to have it done?

Unfortunately yes, it is normal to charge that much for any scan, reflash, etc., that's standard shop rate, even if it takes 10 minutes.

Have you tried to disconnect negatives from battery for at least 1/2 hour while leaving ignition key on ? This will clear the current codes. Then shut key off, reconnect batteries and try too start, or see if codes come back again.

[MuleShack]

I'll disconnect the batteries in a little while and see what happens.

Is the Flash worth the money or is it not necessary?

[Valv]

There were issues with P0191 on '04-'05 models, if you have dealer scan for codes, as might as well use the time spent for a reflash.

[MuleShack]

The same 3 codes plus P2509...something about power loss which probably happened when I pulled the battery cables off with the key on.

[Valv]

That is bizarre. You can call/text me at 612 sevn fiv six 0149 if you want.

[Valv]

Steve, how did this turned out ?

[MuleShack]

I took it to Boyer cause they said they would be able to get at it on Tuesday afternoon or Wednesday but I have not heard from them yet. Not sure if I got bumped in line or if they cant figure it out?

I'm going to call today.

[MuleShack]

Just got off the phone with them. They said that it started right up for them, they tested the codes and got the same ones that I showed when it wouldn't start. They drove around for a while, then let it sit. What do you know, it started right up again so they only have scan and test drive into it now.

I'm guessing I have a sensor going bad or something but no codes give that away on their scanner.

Good news is this time its a cheap repair bill, but I sense I have something coming in the future.

[MuleShack]

160,000 miles and on original crank sensor, so I told them to replace that so I wouldn't have to bring it back in a few months.

Some of the online research suggests that those go bad quite often and can cause the same problem with not starting.