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99 Chevy S-10 throwing code


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Guys,

I just got done looking at an 99 S-10 2.2 4 cylinder, auto that I am considering purchasing. The only issues the truck has is throwing an Evap Emission Control Leak code and it likes to start the second time you turn the key rather than the first. Any ideas on where to chase down the code causing leak and what might cause it to start on the second turn of the key rather than the first? If it is too much work to fix I might pass, otherwise if it is simple fixes, I am probably going to pull the trigger. Other than these minor things the truck is in really good shape.

Pretty good deal on it and my Taurus tranny is on the way out, and the Saturn is being sold to a flipper. Blown head gasket or cracked head on it. Not much fun, but I need to be able to get back and forth to work.

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The actual code would help quite a bit but I would suspect it is either a bad gas cap, rusted filler kneck, a bad vent solenoid, a cracked vacuum hose or a seal on the tank. All of these are normal problems for gm vehicles.

As far as the extended crank the first thing I am looking at is fuel pressure. If it drops than I know it's either the pump or the regulator.

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The previous owner said he put in a new pump not that long ago. Doing some reading online it seems a lot of people have the fuel pump relay go out at about 150k. That is right about where this one is and could be a pretty easy fix. When I turned the key over, I did not hear the pump kick in, and couldn't here it after I let off the ignition. Just a hunch but I think this might be the culprit. He said it just started taking the two turn start one day and has been doing it for about a month.

I am taking the code reader with me today when we go back. If it is anything more than the evap emission control leak I might pass. I will let you know what code it pulls when I get home. Jeremy, I still have your cell number from back when we did the kids ice fishing get togethers. You mind if I text you the code later?

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It was a P0452 code. Some research online says the fuel tank pressure sensor. Sounds like I will need to pull the tank down a bit to get to it. Could that sensor maybe be causing the delayed start too? The last three times starting it up is fired up after about two seconds on the first turn. I did pick it up. Everything else about the truck is in great condition. The deal was too good to pass up, even if I had to drop a new motor in it I would still come out ahead.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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