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Leech's~~ No Snow luber Hyfax saver.


leech~~

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Well Rube-Goldberg is alive and well in Leech's garage!

After nearly wearing out my new hyfax last weekend on Mill Lacs I came up with this rigged up lubing system for my hyfax. I had heard about guys that Grass Drag doing something like it and thought I would give it a try. It's basically a weed sprayer running to a tee with small hoses running down to the hyfax through two small holes drilled in the tunnel. On the seat I have the valve so I can hit it every once in awhile when driving to let some oil flow down to the hyfax.

For a lube mix I am using some veggy oil with some Iso alcohol mixed in to thin it out and to keep it from getting to thick when really cold. The veggy oil should not hurt the lake and the alcohol will just evaporate off. The sprayer works well because you can add some pressure to it which well help push out the thicker oil. I have a few things to do on it yet like tying down the tank but the whole thing cost me about $20 bucks to make and if it ever does snow frown I can take the whole thing off in about 10min's. smile She will get a workout somehwere this weekend!

full-27051-16168-sled2004.jpg

full-27051-16169-sled2008.jpg

full-27051-16170-sled2003.jpg

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Hey there thats a slick little setup(no pun intended) Im heading to the pond tomorrow for a few days so maybe i can follow the oil slick to the hotspot LOL. Sorry couldnt resist.
Lol, ya hopefully it will work slick and not leave one! I'm sure a few pumps every so often should not be leaving much of a oil slick behind! I thought about putting in a few drops of red food coloring into the oil to see how much maybe flowing out. But then you would be able to find out where all my spots are! laugh
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..... or ice scratchers would work...

I have heard a lot of mixed reviews on them. Bending, breaking, not throwing up much on ice but better on hard packed trails and better for hitting the coolers on the bottom of the foot rests then getting down to the hyfax. Some of them also mount back so far that they don't lube much of the hyfax. I put the drip tubes right up front on the rails so it should hit the whole hyfax all the way down.
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I used to race ice ovals in my younger "wiser" days. RV antifreeze works well, that's what most ice racers use.

There was a day that the old green antifreeze was king in lube systems, but, not so much now days. Sure wouldn't use it on a lake.

Nice thing about the veggie oil is you can squirt some in a frying pan and have some fresh fish on the lake smile

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I have heard a lot of mixed reviews on them. Bending, breaking, not throwing up much on ice but better on hard packed trails and better for hitting the coolers on the bottom of the foot rests then getting down to the hyfax. Some of them also mount back so far that they don't lube much of the hyfax. I put the drip tubes right up front on the rails so it should hit the whole hyfax all the way down.

Yes they do work better when there is some snow, bare ice is just not good for anything. I'm rocking a 162 inch track and haven't even wanted to take it out yet this year even with the scratchers on it. They do make scratchers that are flexible and reverse compatible and you can mount them wherever you want on the slides.

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is this really necessary , i always thought as long as there was bit of snow and your not burning out horsing around that it does not real damage to the sled.

Does a bit of lake cruising really wear the hyfaxes that bad?

See bare ice in back ground. That will melt your hyfax in short order! winkfull-27051-16214-pike003.jpg
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is this really necessary , i always thought as long as there was bit of snow and your not burning out horsing around that it does not real damage to the sled.

Does a bit of lake cruising really wear the hyfaxes that bad?

Over this new years weekend the lake I was on had about 50/50 bare ice, snow spots. I thought it wouldn't be a big deal. By the end of the weekend there were melted black specks all over my skid rails. Melted hyfax. Fortunately hyfax are not expensive, just a night in the garage with a cold one.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
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