Light crappie bite

[BLACKJACK]

Wasn't sure how to title this post but wanted to share my experience last night with the experts on this forum. Was fishing in about 12 feet of water, right away when I put my first line down (glow white hook) saw a fish approach the minnow and the bobber bobbed and slowing started going down - a typical crappie bite. Small crappie, tossed it back. The rest of the night, all my fish were caught when I saw the fish approach on the flasher and the bobber pushed up, I'd set the hook, half the time I'd have a fish, lost a few at the hole, but ended up with 7. I caught nothing on my other rod, had down a glow forage minnow for awhile, then tried a plain hook, not even any nibbles on rod #2, all the fish seemed to like the other hook, or was it me paying more attention with the flasher or what???? Fun but perplexing. Wasn't sure what to try next on rod #2... And what can a person do to not lose fish at the hole?

[united jigsticker]

Thats the type of bite I describe when I say "they're hitting up!". Yes, Crappies almost always feed "up", but this is what I termed "hitting up" when I was a little child catching my first Crappies.

Sometimes these bites go undetected if the angler is using a heavier split shot above the bait and hook, especially if the hook isn't weighted and the bait is not lively. With the right set-up, enough tension is released off the float when the fish hits, and it floats up slightly. In other words, you must have had the right set-up!

The forage minnow probably lacked the motion the fish were looking for. With the weight of the lure and your concentration on rig #1, you may have had bites that simply went undetected as well.

I typically only fish one rig so that I am able to concentrate all my efforts on whats going on right beneath me and on my Vex. Sometimes if the second rig sits and the fish hit it, they may get lightly hooked, get free, and then may become spooked.

However, if the bite is more aggresive, you can fish two lines without worrying too much about scaring the school. (this can make for intersting times, tangles, and missed fish too though of the bite is too aggressive.)

Glad to hear you caught some fish.

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Good fishing,
UJ
[email protected]

[This message has been edited by united jigsticker (edited 12-10-2003).]

[SpikeRoberts]

I was never aware of the "hitting up" phenomenon until I started using ice-buster bobbers. I wonder how many fish I've missed because my set-up wouldn't detect lite biting "hitting up."

Now I only use a set-up like Matt described for crappies. If I use a bobber at all, it is definitely a properly trimmed ice-buster over a jig with nothing in between. The ice-buster will come up and lay flat when the crappies "hit up."

If wind or deep water require more weight to get the jig down quickly, I'll change to a heavier jig rather than adding a split shot. I have a good supply of ice busters trimmed at different lengths/bouyancy so I can match the bobber to the jig weight and keep the bobber just barely floating.

[FI Guide]

I hear all you guys the crappies are sneaky fellas they are very good at stealing a meal i thought i was good at knowing when i had a bite but with the ice buster bobber you can really tell when the craps are hitting towards the surface

FI

[Guest]

When I deadstick a line for crappies I like to balance the jig and minnow so that if any crappie was to inhale the jig that they would feel almost no resistance. Whether you use a bobber or not, this can be done.

When using a bobber, I like a small bobber that is barely sticking out of the water after the rig is down and set up. If a feather hits the bobber it will go down (well maybe not a feather ). Use just enough weight so that the bobber is barely stayign afloat. That way if a fish picks it up from underneath you will see a change in the bobbers presentation. I like to cut the end of the tail off of the minnow so that the minnow stays alive but can't swim, then I hook it onto a plain hook without a split shot and drop it down. That way there is not resistance for the fish and the minnow won't move so much causing the bobber to sink. A small split shot can be added if needed to.

When deadsticking a rod without a bobber, I like a real flimsy tip rod. I like to rest the rod over a bucket or in one of the new Rod Straps by Todays Tackle. You can use the same set up as the bobber rig but without the bobber. Let the rod tip work the minnow and watch for any change in the rod tip. If the rod tip strightens, set the hook. Rods with a spring bobber can be used for deadsticking too.

I would be willing to bet that the crappies were still biting your #2 rod, but it just went undetected. If all the crappies are doing is light hitting causing the bobber to rise slightly, then you probably just missed the strike and the bobber quickly returned to the normal posistion.

Another thing, are both the lines similar on both rods? Different color or pound test can make a difference. Flourocarbon, mono, braided? A few other things to think about.

You might also want to try jigging with maggots on one line and dropping a minnow down on the other. Keep the minnow presentation that worked for you and then switch to a jig and maggots on the other. I have good success using this route.

Or when it all comes down to it, just rig both rods the exact same as the one that produced. If the fish are hitting just that one rod, then maybe thats want they want on that day. Never know, might have found the hot presentation.

Good Fishin,
Matt Johnson

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[email protected]
Catch-N Tackle and Bio Bait
MarCum

[BLACKJACK]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Any idea on how to lose less at the hole? One theory I have is that I tend to 'just start cranking' instead of getting a good hook set, then when they struggle at the hole, they get off. One reason that I start cranking is that if theres not a fish there, you've only moved your bait 3-4 inches rather than a foot on big hook set, not scaring the fish as much. What do you guys do on hook setting?

[united jigsticker]

I always like to get a good solid hookset. I believe it is very important. Cranking seems to lose me more fish.

I also use alot of jigging spoons, and this helps the hooking because they have treble hooks on them.

Lastly, I would drill two holes next to eachother, and put the ducer down one while you fish from the other.

This avoids any tangles with your gear and your fish.

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Good fishing,
UJ
[email protected]

[Guest]

If I know I have a nice fish on I'm ready to grab it as it enters the hole, no chance of getting off

Actually, I found that if I keep my rod tip low to hole instead of higher up the bend in the rod is less and that takes away some of the pressure put on the line through the jig. Crappies have paperlips and those hooks like to pop out. If you keep enough pressure to keep the line tight but not to the point where your rod is bending you won't have so many hooks popping out. When in the water the pressure exerted on the line through the jig is less then when the fish reaches the surface, and once that fish reaches the surface the pressured exerted on the line through the rod causes the hook to pop out if the hook doesn't have a solid hook set. Jig goes flying and smacks the inside of your trap, crappie turns and goes back down hole, seen it happen tons of times. So once I get a fish close to the hole I'll lower my rod tip and keep the line tight but relieve some of the pressure. You don't want to take away all the pressure because then the crappie will shake loose or you will break your 2 pound test line once it turns and darts.

UJ has a good point about spoons too. Those treble hooks are tough to get out of and you will loose less fish. Plus small spoons are an excellent choice for crappies. Tip it with a minnow head or pack it with maggots (thanks UJ ) and jig away.

A good solid hook set is key. If you get a solid hook set then the chances of the crappie getting off at the hole drops a lot. A big 3 foot hook set isn't necessary, but a steady lift about 1-2 feet or a flick of the wrist works just fine. Remember, crappies don't have those walleye jaws where you can hook set as you wish, you have to finesse the hook set to make sure the hook gets set but doesn't come up with just a lip.

Good Fishin,
Matt Johnson

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[email protected]
Catch-N Tackle and Bio Bait
MarCum

[This message has been edited by MJ5 (edited 12-11-2003).]

[united jigsticker]

I think Matt meant to say "pack it with maggots and jig away" in reference to fishing with small spoons.

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Good fishing,
UJ
[email protected]

[korn_fish]

people call that type of hit different things. Lite bites, hitting up, lift bites etc.

I call it the lift bite. Thill stealth and mini stealth balsa floats were designed for this actually with worms or larvae (maggots, waxies). But most floats can be adapted to watch for a lift bite. Any pencil style float will work for this and I suggest a pencil style when using minnows. As MJ mentioned, add the split shot so that the float barely stays on the surface. Little resistance when fish pulls it down, and it will rise if they hit up.

The thinner the pencil float, the more it will rise durring a lift bite making it easier to identify.

I am sure that your other rod was getting hit, but they probably just spit it out before you could see it.

I usually use a rattle reel for my second line so that if it starts going down I can hear it. But that still doesnt help for lift bites. The other option for your second line is deadsticking with one of those spring lite bite detectors on the tip of your pole. set the line just tight enough so there is a small bend in the spring, and if there is a lift bite or a downward bite, you should be able to see it without having to look over into the other hole all the time.