Walleye Trolling Rod Combo

[Walleye #1]

Anyone have any reasonable suggestions for a line counter and rod combo for trolling cranks and spinners?

Walleye #1

[canman]

I have the Scheele's 7'6" rod and a Diawa Accudepth. Both are very good. Rig it with a super line and you have a very versitile rig...

[TravP]

I have a set of Daiwa Accudepth plus size 17 reels. I paired them with 2 telescoping 8ft trolling rods made by Pegasus, bought them at FF for 50 a piece on sale.

[Walleye #1]

TravP

What is the action on the rods? Medium? Fleet has a sale going right now, hence the reason for asking. Just not sure how sensitive of a tip a guy needs...they maybe seemed a little stiff.

[TravP]

Their a medium action I would say. I'll be pulling blades with 2-3oz bouncers on Mille Lacs this weekend with them. I think they should work pretty well.

[Luck e 1]

Cabelas has some good combos that R also pretty inexpensive.

[Het]

I've been using the Daiwa SG27LC reels on Ugly Stik CAL 1100 7' medium action rods for a few years now. They're excellent for pulling boards, cranks, and spinners. I use 12# Suffix Pro on them. I've always used the Daiwa reels, but went through just about every rod on the market, but never found one I could 'fall in love' with. Once I found the Ugly Stiks, I was sold. They're also extremely durable. I used longer rods for years. The seven footers make netting fish a lot easier, even in a 20' boat.

[JohnMickish]

Whats "reasonable"? If you plan on using it 50 times a year you will need different equipment that if you plan on using it 5 times a year.

For a trolling rod, you can spend the money but you don't have to. Ugly sticks and Cabelas depthmaster rods work but they are kind of sloppy and can make it hard to see what your lure is doing. They will take massive strikes and hold up well.

Better choices for rods would be the Limit Creek trolling rod, Scheels trolling rod (available up to 14' long!), Cabelas IM6 salmon rods (available in 8-10' long), St. Croix Wild River salmon rods and others in this price range. These more expensive rods have more sensitive tips that will show what the lure is doing better, letting you see that you are dragging around a fouled lure. Dragging a fouled lure usually results in more fishing and less catching.

For reels, I have some of the Okuma Magda reels, not bad but you get your moneys worth (aka it's cheap but it works). The Diawa depthmaster is a better choice.

If your going to use it alot, the Diawa Sealine, Shimano Tekota, Okuma Convergance, Abu Garcia Ambassadour LC6500 and Cabelas Depthmaster Gold are all better choices, but more expensive.

You can easily get a decent rod/reel for under $100 or you can have $300 tied up in each combo. IMO the reel is more important that the rod for this situation, but I wouldn't use a "mushy" rod because you can't see what's going on, but then again, I am a very technical fisherman and missed opertunities and mistakes drive me crazy.

Let me expand on the rod a little bit. Usually when you are trolling with line counters, the rod is in a rod holder and offers little give when a big fish hits. Because the rodholder dosen't move a trolling rod needs to be able to absorb the hit. A trolling rod needs a sensitive tip, softer midsection but still have plenty of backbone to control the fish. Many of the tournament angles are now using salmon rods for longlineing cranks and spinners. The tip also needs to be able to tell you when a little fish is caught but swimming with the boat. This happends more than you think. The tip will just look "different".

I hope that helps and didn't get confusing.

[TravP]

Whats "reasonable"? If you plan on using it 50 times a year you will need different equipment that if you plan on using it 5 times a year.

For a trolling rod, you can spend the money but you don't have to. Ugly sticks and Cabelas depthmaster rods work but they are kind of sloppy and can make it hard to see what your lure is doing. They will take massive strikes and hold up well.

Better choices for rods would be the Limit Creek trolling rod, Scheels trolling rod (available up to 14' long!), Cabelas IM6 salmon rods (available in 8-10' long), St. Croix Wild River salmon rods and others in this price range. These more expensive rods have more sensitive tips that will show what the lure is doing better, letting you see that you are dragging around a fouled lure. Dragging a fouled lure usually results in more fishing and less catching.

For reels, I have some of the Okuma Magda reels, not bad but you get your moneys worth (aka it's cheap but it works). The Diawa depthmaster is a better choice.

If your going to use it alot, the Diawa Sealine, Shimano Tekota, Okuma Convergance, Abu Garcia Ambassadour LC6500 and Cabelas Depthmaster Gold are all better choices, but more expensive.

You can easily get a decent rod/reel for under $100 or you can have $300 tied up in each combo. IMO the reel is more important that the rod for this situation, but I wouldn't use a "mushy" rod because you can't see what's going on, but then again, I am a very technical fisherman and missed opertunities and mistakes drive me crazy.

Let me expand on the rod a little bit. Usually when you are trolling with line counters, the rod is in a rod holder and offers little give when a big fish hits. Because the rodholder dosen't move a trolling rod needs to be able to absorb the hit. A trolling rod needs a sensitive tip, softer midsection but still have plenty of backbone to control the fish. Many of the tournament angles are now using salmon rods for longlineing cranks and spinners. The tip also needs to be able to tell you when a little fish is caught but swimming with the boat. This happends more than you think. The tip will just look "different".

I hope that helps and didn't get confusing.

Like I said, check out those Pegesus walleye trolling rods at FF. They fit your description perfectly, but only cost 50 bucks.