Water pump replacement question?

[311Hemi]

I pulled the lower unit on my 02' F115 the other day and below is what I found. The water pump had never been done by the previous owner as far as I know and while it still had a strong stream it was past over due.

A few questions:

1) The housing appears to have melted a little at one point, I assume I should just replace it and not reuse the old housing (1st pic)?

2) I am curious as to what the grayish colored substance I found inside the pump housing could be. It's fairly hard and made it a little difficult to pull the housing off (2nd pic).

3) The replacement impellers I have seen are strait, is this one just really worn or were they rounded like this as well? Obviously it has some cracks in it as you can see.

4) I found a small crack in the seal below the water pump, I assume I should now replace that as well (last picture). Is there much involved with that?

[marine_man]

Yes.. I'd replace the housing. It's tough to tell what's melted from the picture.. but if it looks distorted I'd do it

Is the grayish stuff some sort of adhesive used to hold the metal sleeve inside the upper portion of the housing?

The impeller fins are curved because the impeller is larger than the housing, by design. When you get your new impeller it will be apparent. You'll have to slightly bend the fins to get the new impeller inside the metal sleeve

I'd replace the gasket if it's cracked.

marine_man

[boatfixer]

If the impeller housing is melted, replace it. What it looks to me like may have happened is the housing melted and someone put some type of adhesive between the cup and housing, thats the gray stuff you see.

Your old impeller is worn out, the new one will have straight blades.

Replace that seal that is cracked

[311Hemi]

I don't think the lower unit as even been taken off this motor, so if that is adhesive then it's from the factory. I assume that is not needed when putting it back together?

With knowing how the impeller is oversized, it's possible the melted housing is from the engine being started out of the water as the only part that is melted is where the outlet is on the pump (upper right section of the 1st pic). I will have to see if it matches the opening on the metal cup. The housing sits flat on my work bench and dose not appear to be warped.

[CAMAN]

I'd replace it all. The waterpump should be available in a kit.

[311Hemi]

I will be replacing it all and found complete kits.

I found another post talking about the same melting (same place on the housing) and the guy said that it happened from him running his Yamaha while running water through the flush port (without using ear muffs).

I think you guys are right about the adhesive over the cup. Do you guys put it on there when putting everything back together or is it not needed?

[marine_man]

If you get the complete kit you should get the metal sleeve with the housing as well.

I'm not sure what to tell you.. to be honest, I was surprised to see the metal cup separated from the plastic housing. If the metal housing isn't affixed to the plastic housing all you're going to do is melt the plastic housing due to the metal cup spinning around with the impeller. That could be the cause of your distorted cup.

marine_man

[311Hemi]

The metal cup has a couple tabs that go into the housing that keep it from spinning. The main replacement kit comes with the metal cup, but not the housing....so the cup is meant to be replaced. I will be replacing the housing as well.

[boatfixer]

I'll just about bet it's been off there. If that housing was hot enough to melt, the impeller would be melted and the liner would be black from the melted rubber, especially if it were run out of water long enough to melt stuff from hot exhaust. I believe it may have been run out of water, but its since been repaired, at least some parts

[311Hemi]

Certainly possible. They must repaint the lower unit bolts afterwords because there was not a scratch on them before I took the lower unit off.

Do you know if I need to remove the bearing housing to replace that top seal cap that is in the last picture? I believe I do....so I might as well replace both seals and the seal cap if that's the case.

[boatfixer]

Yep but its real easy. Just remember to slowly and evenly pry it out after removing the screws.

[311Hemi]

Ok, any thoughts on reusing this housing? I took some emory paper to the inside lightly to make sure it is smooth. There is pitting on the upper edge, but the seals main area of surface connection is below that.

This is what I found below the seal cap. Everything was still sealing properly and my fluid looked good, but I think it was a matter of time before I might have seen a failure.

[boatfixer]

Based on the pictures I would have no concerns using that housing. Light film of Loctite adhesive or some gorrila snot (OMC calls it Gasket Sealing Compound) or Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer around the outside and a little Marine Grease in the lips and run it.

[311Hemi]

Well, I finished her up this weekend and pressure and vacuum tests were successful. All new water pump (kit, housing, impeller) and new seals/o-rings for the drive shaft and shift shaft. I found the OMC gasket maker and used some of that as recommended. I did have a small issue with the new seals pushing out at 15 psi (probably due to the gasket maker and some grease on the outside of the bearing), but then I looked at the service manual and they only call for testing it with 10 psi. This happened without the water pump housing and seal retainer cover on, so that would help keep the seals in place if ever needed. At 10 psi everything held nicely.

Thanks for the help guys!!!