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Should I switch to amsoil?


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I own a 2000 Ford F150 5.4L V8. I currently am running a high mileage partial synthetic if that makes sense. The truck has 120k miles and is starting to burn a little oil between changes. Based on others experience, is amsoil a smart choice in my situation?

Since I know very little about synthetic vs conventional oils all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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I run amsoil in my car, 2001 Jetta with 150K. I don't notice a difference in performance. Its more expensive and I change my oil less that is about the only difference.

if your asking if you won't burn oil if you switch to amsoil? yes you will still burn oil.

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Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils.

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One thing you should know to when switching you actually need an engine flush. Also I was told once you switch you should never switch back or you will cause some engine problems. Not sure why but just what I was told. Any mechanics confirm this?

My cousin got me on amsoil, he had to flush my engine out with some solution before adding amsoil.

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Burning a little oil in a high mileage vehicle is fairly normal. No brand/type of oil will change this.

I thought with the old synthetics you weren't supposed to switch back and forth, but with the modern day ones it didn't matter.

Never have heard of the engine flush for synthetic thing before.

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Engine flush my but.

I run Amsoil in my 180k GMC Sierra and Dino oil in other cars. Know oils well.

If you're already on (slight) seal swelling high-mileage oil, stick with the high-mileage oil. Going back wil cause it to use a little more oil. I found that out on my wife's car.

Maxlife has been tested against the others and found to be the best. You get it either in a Semi-Syn or a Full Syn.

Run a top quality filter too. Purolator PureOne, Amsoil EaO, M1, Wix, MAPA Gold, etc.

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I would just stick with what you got at that many miles.

No point pouring in something that costs more for your engine to eat. Just change it when your supposed to and enjoy cheap maintenance.

The other thing you may run into pouring synthetic in a higher mile car is that since it does a better job cleaning and the molecules are much smaller you might end up with a bunch of leaks. Not always does that happen, but sometimes.

If your gung-ho on switching to a synthetic consider running a high-mile one with seal conditioners in it. That way you got a little protection against having the leaks.

As far as flushing the motor goes, don't do it. Your almost guaranteed a leak doing that in a older car. No need for that kind of stuff unless its been very neglected or having a issue like a sticky lifter.

Oh yeah and 1+ the PureOne and Wix filters. They are the best 2 filters on the market.

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For your current engine conditions, I would recommend against AMSOIL's top of the line products ASL 5W-30, ASM 0W-20 or ATM 10W-30 (up to 1 year oil change). If you change to AMSOIL use either the XL series (6 month max), or the new OE (Original Equipment recommended interval) product. I would also recommend against using a flush, since you are already using a partial synthetic product you shouldn't need to use it. You should see no change in oil consumption. The AMSOIL products will give you at least -45 deg pour point, so depending on what you are currently using you will probably get a little easier starting.

To answer other questions/comments in this thread - In the middle 1970s there were some synthetics brought out by small chemical companies that were not compatible with anything else, you had to do a flush to use them and a flush to remove. Today ALL of those are gone! (Thankfully!) The "Old Wives tale" of you can't change between is totally false today! All consumer passenger car motor oils on the market are capable of being mixed without harming the engine. There is no reason why you cannot go back and forth. AMSOIL has always been compatible with petroleum lubes to mix.

(There are some special industrial lubricants that cannot be mixed.)

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Spear- I've noticed that I'm losing about a quart or so between oil changes(5,000 mi). I think I'll stick with the high mileage partial synthetics for now and change my oil more frequently. Thanks all for the help.

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Spear- I've noticed that I'm losing about a quart or so between oil changes(5,000 mi). I think I'll stick with the high mileage partial synthetics for now and change my oil more frequently. Thanks all for the help.

That is probably better than normal. You have nothing to worry about. I think Ford considers something obnoxious like a qt per 1,000 as normal.

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Quote:
I think Ford considers something obnoxious like a qt per 1,000 as normal.

I actually had a local Ford service writer tell a Mustang owner that a quart every 500 miles was acceptable, and refused to do anything about it - while the car was still under warranty!

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Hey oilman, we run high mileage toyota trucks and 4runners in our family. What do you recommend with them? They don't burn any oil. I have had 4 high mileage toyotas 300,000+ and non ever used, leaked or burned oil. I an developing a knock upon starting in a 2004 Tundra V8 now. It fades pretty quick though.

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Hey oilman, we run high mileage toyota trucks and 4runners in our family. What do you recommend with them? They don't burn any oil. I have had 4 high mileage toyotas 300,000+ and non ever used, leaked or burned oil. I an developing a knock upon starting in a 2004 Tundra V8 now. It fades pretty quick though.

Why would you use anything other than what you have been using if you are getting 300,000? I doubt an oil will help a knock.

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With 300,000 already on the truck I would say probably don't change to AMSOIL, but stay with what you have been using, it has gotten you successfully that high. I would ask what viscosity you are using? If 5W-30 you might go up to 10W-30 on the same oil.

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