Throttle safety switch

[DTro]

Could someone please explain to me what this is and how it works.

What is the design intent? Frozen or stuck cable, or if a rider falls off?

Is there a way to test it or make any adjustments to it?

[Shack]

All of the above. This video might help you give you a better idea of how it works. Same on pretty much any sleds from a couple years ago back:

[Macgyver55]

Could someone please explain to me what this is and how it works.

[DTro]

Thanks for the explanation Mac!

So everything I've read has said I should have 1/8" of play in my cable, but when I try to adjust it so that I have a little play I get issues with that safety switch. With no play it seems better.

Should there be no slack?

[Surface Tension]

I've seen more then once where the pin and bushing for the for the throttle had enough sloop/wear to give throttle safety switch issues. If your on the trail when this happens. Hold the throttle open just a hair when starting.

[Shack]

LOL my bad. I must have read throttle safety switch(s) then your questions Here I tried to keep it simple for Dtro with some visual aid. LOL Coffee is filled and brewing some more, so here I go lol!

I assume you are not talking about the tether. I do not think your talking the black things on the carb? I am not positive (can not remember the year) that your sled has the positioning sensors on the the outside of the carbs. You have the throttle one fur sure.

I assume (and the title of the thread lol) you are talking the little black switch underneath the throttle lever on the throttle block which is the throttle safety switch (TSS). Frank described a failure I remember being as a problem. If this is what you are talking about, I am sure someone or I can get the exact specs and repair. Basically two little plunger switches (one switch though and some I think were single plunger style) that prevent the sled from starting (denied of spark) if the the throttle level is not all the way back in the idle position against the throttle block. Switch could be just bad, but I remember hearing about the private point of the throttle thumb level being broken or loose causing issues. No adjustment of the switch if I recall. Could be wrong. Also slack in the cable could cause the throttle not to rest at idle tight enough against the block. I also remember you should have a 1/4" of play with Polaris's, but do not quote me. 1/8" seems pretty tight but could be what it is.

By chance if you are asking about the little black elec. things on the sides of the carbs, most refer to them as throttle positioning sensors (TPS), but I believe if you go to order them through Polaris, they are ordered as the ASM sensor, but not sure because they are known by sevral diffrent names.

Quote:

Yes there is! Not sure how your particular one works, but normally it is a series of adjustments that syncronyze the carburetors so they open at precisely the same time when you squeeze the throttle. If they dont open at the same time, the ignition cuts out to prevent a "runaway". I'm thinking you may have inadvertently gotten it out of adjustment while removing your carbs for cleaning. It could be as simple as accidently switching the the carb tops, or it could be tied to the adjustment of the stripped cable end.

I'd personally be against bypassing it as the video shows, although many sleds (even newer ones) dont even have them. If you are the only user its not such a big deal, but if its a family sled I'd spend the time to do it.

An added plus is, it may also improve the sleds performance if they are out of sync since "unbalanced carburetion" will diminish the sleds capability.

I am not sure if Mac is talking about the throttle safety, TPS or a combo of both. The Throttle Safety Switch (TSS) as far as I know only deals with the throttle level being at rest & seated in the proper position against the throttle block to let the ign. system know the throttle is at idle during the next start up. If not, your get no spark, hence the the frozen reference. The positioning switch(s) I believe do not have anything to do with the carbs being out of sync either, other than causing them to send mix signals to the CDI, which could cause running and performance issues like chugging, backfire and even a no start, nothing related to safety. The TPS's evaluates a static voltage signal and feeds back to the CDI a voltage value based on where/what angle position the throttle shaft is at. A little tab on the inside of the sensor rotates which allows a rheostat of sorts to limit voltage output going back as a reading to the CDI. Some of my buddies have gotten pretty crazy with calibrating the voltage being sent back to the CDI. They adjust it up to almost 10v and believe the factory setting is 5v. Give you quicker out of the hole response and other pluses. If by chance this is the sensor you where talking about, they are not cheap and most times only need adjustment if they are the cause of a running issue.

Here is a proven way to adjust them. The factory/after-market testers are $40-$50 so making one up would be up to the guy who needs one:

And as for the throttle safety switch (TSS) not having nothing to do with falling off, I guess this would be said by those who would hang on. I guess the type that has to be off the sled when pulling over would just watch it fly down the trail, but no the TSS failing or working proper has nothing to do with the rider being on the sled or not.

[DTro]

Yeah, it's a little confusing to me. All I know is that if I jiggle the thumb throttle I can get it to kill. Well not really jiggle, but if I let off the throttle all the way, I can pull it back a little more and it will kill.

[Shack]

I would say it is your throttle block and lever assembly which houses the kill and throttle safety switches:

Unless you want to take it apart and figure it out.

Dude I just sold one of these that would have fit on your sled. I still have a good amount of parts including trim, bumpers, clutches and what not. Selling a jackshaft with new bearings yet today even.

[Macgyver55]

Actually the system I described is more commonly used on Cats than Polaris. As Shack said, the Polaris system is more focused on the thumb lever than the carbs themselves. If its not a worn lever assy then I'd still focus on the adjustment affected by the stripped cable.

But it is still very important that the carbs are both synchronized and that both slides are at rest against the idle speed screws before adjusting the cable slack.