Linsys Router problems

[Shack]

Quote:

We dont game here. Most of what you are saying is way over my head. I need to use basic logic to try and determine where a problem lies.

Then, at this point I would suggest hiring a Geek to find and fix the issue. If you want to give fixing it yourself a try, you are going to have learn something and figure out how to understand these things at this point, unless Pure Insanity or UpNorth would like to drive over to your house and fix it for ya for free or maybe have a magic wand. It really is not that hard and if you really want to fix the problem yourself and dig into it, one week after that point you will look at how internet comes into your home, and goes out, in a total different way. It's going to have to get Geek.

Have you had your ISP look into the modem??? Ive seen many times were people have problems with their "router" and it turns out to be a defective setting or even a defective modem... If it is a modem, hopefully you can return your router or have them refund you for it

Good point PI. For giggles to get on the internet and a rule of diag. I would assume with cable you can hook one PC right up to the modem to rule out an issue prior to the router when coming in.

Yes UN, gaming is a straight shoot at full throttle. My wireless network was recently hacked. Not by anyone looking for my info, but rather my son looking to get more packets towards streaming Netflix via the Wii at night when he should be in bed asleep. Going from a paraphrase encrypted WEP to a higher encrypted WPA and then back can cause many issues, especially if you are running more than one machine on the network.

Comcast I guess has very poor customer service. Qwest has every modem and step by step setup on file I have found. Connections out of Big Lake is the same. They even had the Monti Flea Market special, no-name routers manual my friend picked up on file when figuring out my friends "It is junk and broken" router issues a couple weeks back. Turned out to be a wrong user name entered in the wrong place. He was using his web log in password where he should have been using his ISP's PPPoE password.

If none of the stuff UN suggested works, you can look into the below. Bare with me as I might cover/go over somethings that are not applicable at this point or already covered. Just getting it out and will flow after the fact:

First thing!

With most routers, pushing the little "reset" button on the router next to the AC input with a pin is not the same as a reset involving restarting/booting or a power down of 30 seconds to 3-4 minutes. Pushing the little button cleans any manual input like passwords, user names, ext.... Just an FYI as someone I helped kept doing this verses just a power down and restart. Once again, this person ranted and claimed their router was junk only months after purchase, while curing the brand name of the router.

Being a cable connection,

Maybe this has been covered already? But here goes what I would do if the above did not cure it:

First, on every PC check to see what Network is checked as to how you PC get to the network:

As you can see with my Windows 7 Machine I have more than one option in Que and if your hooked up via a WAN (either-net), you would want one of the red X's next to any wireless network and no red X by the the local area connection network.

Quote:

If I have a computer wired to a router and I can not get on the internet and I type 192.168.1.1 into my browser and it will not give me a log in screen to my router I have to think this is a router issue not an ISP or modem issue.

If you are entering this, then your thinking is wrong. If you are typing "192.168.1.1" into a browser for Belkin, this might be the issue. For most Linksys, the IP is 192.168.1.1; for Netgear and D-Link, 192.168.0.1; Belkin, 192.168.2.1; Siemens, 192.168.254.254.

I ran into a similar issue like this last summer when helping a friend with a Netgear 300 broken and junk get into router settings with the IP address being entered only flying about 10% of the time during setup (not working 100% at the end or when needed). This was when typing the routers IP into the browser http search bar. I did a quick 3.8 second search and found with any Netgear it is best to type in/use www.routerlogin.net, type in user name and password and this worked just fine and got the router up and running? I was using Google Chrome but figure the browser has nothing to do with it or does it?

I am not fluent in cable highspeed, only DSL, but I would assume (I have seen the prompts for cable) there is some sort of server/switch prior to the modem on the Cable companies end that needs a user ID and a password? Maybe a reoccurring and often changing static IP? I would assume Comcast would provide this and I know with PPPoE & DSL, the password is regenerated when a total reset of the router is done.

One test I have found helps with ruling out somethings is to open CMD (Command Promt) and type ping 192.168.x.x and then tracert 192.168.x.x. The IP should be your routers default Gateway. I would do this on all the PC's. This will help rule out a PC to router communications issue. If everything is fine, I would target DHCP. This is if you can get into router settings yet?

Also try disconnecting all computers from the network and using only one to get into the router settings and try this with your XP machine also to see if your router settings pages will show. When you get to your router settings, find DHCP and make sure it is turned on and set for all hosts/sources. Take a look for some kind of tab that allows you to view the DHCP routing table and see if the IP's match up with the ones for your machines. If anything, see if you can clear everything and just start over allowing DHCP server to assign new IP's as the PC are hooked backed up.

The other thing I would check into is finding out if your IP lease (I think) time limit is running out for the IP brought forward by DHCP. Some times the above tests will come back positive, but your connection allowance is timing out instantly because of something. At this point you should be able to type in CMD ipconfig/all and see when the leases were started and when they expire. This will give you an idea of what to look for using my wireless connection:

At this time you can use this report to check all of the other connections specs to make sure nothing is set wrong in the routers settings. After this I would type in CMD: ipconfig/release and after the numbers/info/data are done coming up, type in ipconfig/renew to see if all your network connections are present. At this point you are going to want to make sure a valid IP shows up for your router in the right click area on your connection type (wireless mainly).

Other thing to check is with Windows Defender/Firewall or any third party anti-protection software for a block on your routers IP showing up. Obviously this is happening for a reason and with different routers and not to mention different manufacturers. That is why I can almost guarantee this is NOT a router issue that is the cause, but maybe the reason because of protocol. Are you running any on-line privacy third party software? Are you running any software on all your PC that is the same besides the OS and you or someone has installed?

Last but not least is moving one of your PC's, or preferably a laptop, to your routers location and using a known good 3-4' factory made either-net cable to hook directly right too the router.

Quote:

New router locked up today. It has a feature called self healing that Belkin support instructed me to disable. All of our computers could get into the router but not connect to the internet. I hard wired one computer to the modem and everything was fine. I went to the self healing and enabled it then it started working again. Could be the old router was not the problem. Not sure where to go next.

First I would want to know what this self healing actually does. It does something that is normal but the name was added for the purchasing customers POM. Second this wraps back to what Upnorth was talking about with regards to the DNS(s).

Lastly I would like to just throw up the old run down here:

Quote:

Belkin Router Setup with Comcast – Step by Step Instructions

It is considered quite primitive if you are stuck using wired routers for getting internet access for more than one computer. Almost all households and especially businesses world over have switched to wireless routers, thereby making it easy for all to get access to computers. Even though many people are using it, it does not mean that they do not face problem with it. This article will provide you with step by step instructions as to how you can do the correct Belkin router setup in case your Internet service provider is Comcast.

Belkin Router Support – Listed Below

Whenever you face a problem with your router, you generally rush to find Belkin router support. The below given instructions will remove that need in case you want to configure your Belkin router with Comcast:

The first step requires you to reset your modem. You can do this by hitting the reset button located usually at the back of your Belkin router. Do the same with your modem as well and then go on to plug in the cables in the required ports provided at the back of your router.

Connect a cable from the first port to the back of your computer on which you wish to setup the router.

Open up Internet explorer or the web browser that you use and type in 192.168.2.1 in the address bar of your browser. After you hit enter, you will be asked for a username and password. Simply put admin in the username and leave the password field blank. Hit next.

You will now be transferred to the status page of your router. Simply click on initial setup and go on to select the dynamic address field. You will now view a different screen on which you would need to click on clone mac address. Hit enter.

The Belkin router that you are using will now show the similar address of mac, just like the one on your computer. You will now be able to access internet wirelessly.

The above instruction will guide you in configuring your Belkin router, therefore you would not need to search anywhere in search of Belkin support. Simply follow the instruction and have wireless connectivity.

Give the above a whirl if Upnorth's or PI's options did not work. Let us know, well mainly for others looking for a cure, what works in the end. I actually have been router and wireless headhunting the last couple months for myself and friends, it seems, almost every weekend. I have been compiling screen capture images and video as to the solutions. When I get some time I might put them together and upload them to HSOshow.com if interest is shown. Good luck!

[upnorth]

Shack you can setup the internal network most any address scheme you want. What you put for the internal networks is what they default to. I normally wouldn't recommend using the defaults for security sake. Makes it easier for someone with some skills to hack your network.

[Shack]

Yes you are right UN. This is what I use to get the entire setup that does not work to work. Basic defaults with wide open access. Once the connection is working at this point, I then back fill the areas needed. This is for the networks that are locked/messed up for various reasons. Going at this with a DSL connection set up on PPPoE (seems to be the most common as to what I have dealt with) here for example:

Before I do anything, if you can do it, I get all available staic info from within the router settings that I can. At some point I am on the phone with the ISP and at that point I obtain, and if provided double check for good measure, the PPPoE access user name(s) ([email protected] for example) and the ISP generated password (eddTYhMC for example). Then pull all and any access points that are are shared on the network. I then go to the router and modem with my laptop (and iPhone with 3G internet and phone access), reset to factory the router and then unplug the router and modem. Just as a quirk I shut down any and all firewalls on my laptop. Wait for a minute and plug back in/hook up and straight feed access the router settings with a known good either-net cable, my laptop and router default 192.168.X.X. Depending, I will see if I can get anything straight from the modem. I instantly shut down the firewall within the routers settings access HTTP page and configure the PPPoE connection with either the way the firmware justifies or manually inputting, MAC, Subnet Mask, Gateway, router/ISP server static IP, Domain Name System (DNS), user name, password, ext... I then hit DHCP server settings to make sure it is set to on. Besides this and at this point I run with all the routers defaults from a hard reset because they are usually set for the easiest way to get to the internet. Then I check my browser to see if I can pull up Google. If not, I then start looking back into the router default settings (I know how my laptop is set up correct and bank cash on it not being on my end) as to what and which default settings are the cause. Once Google pops up, then I start the basics with router configuration like wireless user and guest accesses and checking the defaults over, while work my way back out as how the owner or I would like their network setup. Then we hook up and config, starting with the main used source on the DHCP designated IP address list (which very well maybe switched over to a static IP after the fact) to make sure this PC, or device, is doing its jog correctly at accepting what the routers has to offer as far as with IPv4 or IPv6 and in ipconfig. At things are not matching up a check into the network cards drivers would next. For piece of mind and after any remote access period needed from me, I go through all the user names and passwords on their PC with them to have them change things to secure me out of the picture. This is a measure I would stress when having a relative or friend, much less a hired Geek, help you fix your way out of a jam. You can change passwords and user names at a drop of a dime, but you can not change things when something happens and if they are or are not really to blame.

This statistically has worked like a charm. Most times with any setting related to the band router I am working with can be found with an easy search or opening the owners pdf reference manual/guide. I need be I call the manufacture directly and no matter who answers, have always worked things out for the better. Most times you have to be direct and ask exactly the questions you can not search your way out of, with both the ISP & router manufacture, but working between both of these sources (I know multiple calls at times but life ain't easy & cheesy) I have yet to not figure out even the most messed up of situations. When I I am done or before I leave, no matter how in-depth, there is a secure internet connection setup depending on how the owner would like it. Haven't lost one router yet. Have run into a few pain to the brain types and old (can say that now thanks to a new Linksys e3000) and now bridged Actiontec gt7604wr modem/router was IMO the worst as there is no support to be had other than archiving digging.

I have recently really dived into the ports forwarding, Quality of Service dedication, NAT and Voice Over IP setting aspects for a given application(s) and making sure what is need is able to get where and with the proper dedicated allowance.

[Shack]

The more I think about this, another thought to check on, ipconfig/all in cmd first to see and check the Comcast IP lease renewal date and time first and verify the IP is being configured over properly in the PC(s) Windows Network and Sharing program. Maybe for some reason Comcast is frequently changing the IP address ranges in your area for some reason. This is a static IP to Comcasts servers, but static in only if it is not changed by they system. If it is working one day and not the next, there have been similar issues with other routers and no internet, a setting is being changed and if the user is not changing (third party software included and is still suspect) the only only other source would be on the ISP's side. I am assuming Comcast has been the ISP during the entire time though.

Even with recently updated firmware, I still put more weight in a PC or server third party firewall. With people letting viruses, would be hackers, phishing scams that use fake log in screens, down to keyloggers capturing and recording a user's key strokes past even the best router firewall software willingly, but unknowingly, your systems defense is the only thing really keeping you safe. Not mention de-cryptic software available for free. Heck, and only binging this forth to spread knowledge and the word, but 3 weeks ago at my in-laws place I was configuring their wireless and port forwarding for gaming. Password protection was enabled for access to their routers settings http page and WEP. They did not know their user name and password, which the DSL installation tech had setup for them. After some trial and error, the user name was their last name and guess what their password was? Yep, their last name as well. The live in a tight development and I could pick up about 7-9 different wireless signal on my laptop. It must be the same tech in the area that set up every system I could get to show up, but every wireless network accesses password was the same as the user name. Most did not even set or change the default with their settings access. I told the ISP when I had them on the phone about it and they said they would look into it.

Also one last final option. If all else fails and it can be had or an image down loaded, run the the routers installation program/disk. Sometimes the ISP will even provide an installation program/disk, but I would think you have to be using their router they sell. You can even get third party ISP utilities on cnet that can help get things figured out, if you have a PC with internet access or are proactive. I have not traveled this route so I am not totally sure what is best an even out their. An option I think I may dig into.

[pureinsanity]

At work we have our router secured but also we have the router SSID named "notconnected". You'd be amazed at the people that come in to our office and try to log onto other peoples wireless networks. Heck even when I connect it for them I skip right over it because its a goofy name.

Whenever I have to reset my router I will be doing that as well

Connected to Not Connected

[upnorth]

You want secure, don't broadcast it. You just have to go in and create a new wireless connection and enter the SSID there. I have setup 3 enterprise level wireless systems and that is how we set them up. Hard to hack something you can't see.

[spearchucker]

I am tired after scanning through Shack's novel. Comcast's IP addresses are not the problem here. Resetting the router would have taken care of this and he has internet when connected directly to the modem.

Your wireless USB adapter is an ancient version that only supports 802.11b and most likely only supports WEP. WEP isn't much better than leaving it wide open. Ditch it and get something newer if you can't hardwire it. DMZ has nothing to do with getting connected to the router. It just exposes all of the DMZ computer's ports to the internet. The router simply passes all traffic from any port to the DMZ computer.

I think as others have stated, you need to get someone over that knows what they are doing. If you reset the router to default settings everything should work if you are typing in the correct IP address.

[Shack]

Nobody that I know of forced you to read it. Spearchucker if that makes you tired, I would hate to see what opening any software or hardware pfd user manual does to ya.

I figure if you are going to post something, why not just post instead of covering the same old lines or what has been covered already. Short of that I figure why even post a response and why even have a forum that helps people with PC issues? Obviously this issue has not been resolved for the memeber, so I thought I would throw out some ideas.

Also (double yawn ) I am just soooooooooooooo sick of searching on the net for info or a solution to a problem I have and seeing the same old carp that does not fix what you need. I look for and appreciate in-depth posts that give detailed info that maybe could hold a an answer of some value or possibly for what I am looking for. In fact, I am also soooo sick of the reoccurring posts of IMO nonsense as I am scanning down a forum list. I have just come to find it best to when scrolling down a forum to past by any post that that does not look like someone has put some thought into it. Unless I notice it is a reply/response after the main post of info. I figure the best thing is to pass forward what I appreciate finding for myself.

Also when I post in this fashion, I am not just posting for this particulate situation, or to annoy anyone, I am posting for those who happen to come in this thread down the road looking for help maybe not related to the solution needed here. I can also direct back to this in the future if I have to.

That is why I posted like I did.

Take my advise as you may and I am not in this to puffy chest over this option or that, just letting others know what has worked for me. If it works for you great!

[pureinsanity]

Shack your posts are long, but as you stated you're not forcing anyone to read it. If however I had an issue, and I posted it in here I would appreciate your in depth commentary.

With that being said. back to reality and its question.

Have you noticed any errors on the pc that cant connect? Like duplicate IP address? I use to live at house were the wireless card for a computer would constantly drop connection or have limited connectivity. Updating that wireless card to a knew one seemed to do the trick.

Lastly were is the placement of this router? Is it sitting on top of the modem? is it in a cabinet? Ive seen several get messed up because they heated up, they couldn't breathe.

[eurolarva]

As I mentioned and the reason for me opening this post. I could not open the password screen to my Linksys router using an IE browser typing 192.168.1.1 ( I know that Belkins router is 192.168.2.1) I disconnected the Cat5 cord from the router and plugged it directly into the internet and I have internet access. I replugged the Cat5 into the router and still can not connect to the screen to get into the router. I un plug the router and re plug it in now the router works. This sure sounds like a router problem. The new belkin router is running fine. I check the security logs daily and have seen one attempt on the fire wall. I agree with pure insanity about getting a better adapter for the older XP machine. I hope to get that done this weekend so I can go back to WPA.

[pureinsanity]

As I mentioned and the reason for me opening this post. I could not open the password screen to my Linksys router using an IE browser typing 192.168.1.1

Maybe some how your gateway got changed?

Try this.

Click the Start button > Select Run > type in "cmd" > hit enter.

A DOS prompt should show up. Type in "ipconfig" and hit enter.

Whatever the "Default Gateway" ip address says is the address you should type in your browser log into your router. Perhaps it somehow got changed upon setup and that's why you cannot access.

Secondly I know you have two routers now, and well I hope you are not using them both at the same time. This could explain a lot as to why you are having troubles. You do not want to run two routers ever. The place I work at had a router to distribute internet, and than used another router as a switch or hub. They wonder why their stuff only worked half the time.

[spearchucker]

Make sure that you have "Obtain an IP address automatically" selected in your TCP/IP properties of your network connection also.

[upnorth]

Look back few posts the checking stuff was all listed.

[pureinsanity]

Sorry. I missed that! And if I missed it the odds are that guy might have missed it too. At least we are on the same page

[pureinsanity]

I am willing to bet if you put a new updated network card in your problem will be gone.

Also have you tried accessing the router via another computer? Maybe a wireless one to see if you can connect to the router?

Basically, we can narrow down a few things. That one pc is the only one dropping connection. I am sure youve tried a different cable? If the other computers never disconnect like this one than its obviously not your ISP or Routers problem. You can at least eliminate that, and if you have switched the cabling you can eliminate the cabling, the only things left are your Network Interface Card aka NIC (the physical hardware, or the setup) of your computer.

NIC's these days are pretty cheap. so I think that is your next step. Mainly if you can see the routers admin screen from other computers.

[pureinsanity]

Have you checked that computers firewall settings? I noticed you were using XP. is it Service Pack 2?

There are settings within the XP SP2 firewall to allow communication with the Router. I have a feeling that could be a culprit too... Play with XP's firewall settings and see if that makes a difference. I believe your router has a "built in router" it might be causing a conflict of interest

[upnorth]

These $50 router/wireless AP/switch devices don't take a lot to mess up. Enterprise level Wireless AP alone is $450.

A few power spikes could mess them up to the point where the code they run on could be corrupt. Have had more that one network device go bad when the power went down, came up, but went down again before it had completely booted up. That was a high end Cisco router, a cheap Netgear, Linksys, Belkin, could easily flake out under than kind of a scenario too.

[spearchucker]

XP should be updated to SP3 since SP2 ins't supported anymore my MS. As for consumer routers, I would recommend something that can run DD-WRT. It is by far more stable and feature rich than OEM firmware, but takes a little more knowledge of computing. Most routers will work out the box with default settings. It may not be optimal, but should work.

[pureinsanity]

Gotta love electronics and how electricity can cause havoc to our devices!

I am still sticking by the faulty NIC. You can be I am interested in finding out what solution was able to fix it.

[upnorth]

I have seen more than once where a NIC was turned off in device mangler.

[spearchucker]

I have seen more than once where a NIC was turned off in device mangler.

I was thinking the same. Even if it is enabled, it may be worth removing the NIC in device mangler and letting Windows find it and re-install it.

[delcecchi]

that is why they sell "switches" as well as routers.

[eurolarva]

Wireless computer would lose connection to the router and the internet as well. Sometimes one wireless could not connect while the two other wireless machines and the hard wired machine were fine. The only solution each time was to shut the router down for at least 20 seconds then re power it back up. The new router is running like a pro. If it was not the router I wasted 30 bucks. I just need to get a new adapter for the older XP machine so I can run WPA AES and things should be okay.

[Shack]

Yep, the router is the smartest, but also the more complicated and expensive of the bunch. Hubs and switches are bare-bones options that you IT guys like because you are in-control vise verse as with a router that can think.

Like I said above with the XP I would check the network card's drivers first to see if they need updating. Instead of taking apart anything, you can uninstall and reinstall the network card (NIC) when right clicking and going into properties. Here are a couple videos that might help

This might help also:

Quote:

This section lists the error codes and possible resolutions for the error codes. The error codes are listed in numeric order.

Before you continue, make sure that you have the error code available. You can view the error code in the device Properties dialog box available in Device Manager. You can also resolve many of the errors within Device Manager.

To start troubleshooting, follow these steps:

Make sure that Device Manager is open, and that the device that has the problem is selected. You can perform some recommended resolutions through Device Manager.

Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.

Select the Hardware tab, and then click Device Manager.

Double-click the device type that has the problem. For example, if you have problems with your modem, double-click Modems to see the devices in that category.

A list of devices appears. If a device has problems, the device has a red exclamation point next to it. If a device is unknown (usually because of missing drivers), the device has a yellow question mark next to it.

Right-click the device that has the problem, and then click Properties. This opens the device Properties dialog box. You can see the error code in the Device status area of this dialog box.

Use the Troubleshooting Wizard, if it is available, to help you diagnose and resolve your problem.

On the device Properties dialog box, click the General tab.

Click Troubleshoot to start the Troubleshooting Wizard. The wizard asks you some simple questions and provides a solution to your problem based on the answers that you provide. If the Troubleshooting Wizard is not available, go to step 3.

Follow the resolution steps provided by the wizard to resolve the problem.

Check the Device status area of the device Properties dialog box to see whether the error is resolved. If the error is resolved, you are finished. Otherwise, go to step 3.

If the Troubleshooting Wizard did not help you resolve your problem or was not available, locate your error code in this article.

Note If you cannot locate your error code in this article, contact Support. For information about how to do this, visit the following Microsoft Web site:

Follow the recommended resolutions for that error code.

Check the Device status area of the device Properties dialog box to see whether the error is resolved. If the error is resolved, you are finished.

If the problem still occurs, unfortunately, this article did not resolve your problem. For your next steps, you may want to ask someone for help. Or, you may want to contact Microsoft Support to help you resolve this problem. For information about how to do this, visit the following Microsoft Web site:

Codes 1 through 10

Review this section if you have received an error code between 1 through 10.

Code 1

This device is not configured correctly. (Code 1)

Cause

The device has no drivers installed on your computer, or the drivers are configured incorrectly.

Recommended resolution

Update the driver

You may be prompted to provide the path of the driver. Windows may have the driver built-in, or may still have the driver files installed from the last time that you set up the device. If you are asked for the driver and you do not have it, you can try to download the latest driver from the hardware vendor’s Web site.

In the device properties dialog box, click the Driver tab, and then click Update Driver to start the Hardware Update Wizard. Follow the instructions to update the driver. If updating the driver does not work, see your hardware documentation for more information.

Code 3

The driver for this device might be corrupted, or your system may be running low on memory or other resources. (Code 3)

Recommended resolutions

Here are some things that you can try to resolve this problem.

Close some open applications

If the computer has insufficient memory to run the device, you can close some applications to make memory available. You can also check memory and system resources, and the virtual memory settings.

To check memory and system resources, open Task Manager. To open Task Manager, press CTRL+ALT+DELETE, and then click Task Manager.

To check virtual memory settings, right-click My Computer, click Properties, click the Advanced tab, and then click Settings in the Performance area.

Uninstall and reinstall the driver

The device driver may have become corrupted. If the driver is corrupted, uninstall the driver from Device Manager and scan for new hardware to install the driver again.

You may be prompted to provide the path of the driver. Windows may have the driver built-in, or may still have the driver files installed from the last time that you set up the device. However, sometimes, it will open the New Hardware Wizard which may ask for the driver. If you are asked for the driver and you do not have it, you can try to download the latest driver from the hardware vendor’s Web site.

On the device Properties dialog box, click the Driver tab, and then click Uninstall. Follow the instructions.

Restart your computer.

Open Device Manager, click Action, and then click Scan for hardware changes. Follow the instructions.

If you want to take the tiring and long route, by all means and more power to ya. This also does not take the place of ruling out a loose or poorly seated network card though. Like PI said these things are direct cheap anyways and replacing, minus any re-installation head aches, could save a ton of time monkeying around?

As far as getting into the router settings, I checked a little further and found this on the in the set up guide:

Quote:

In your browser, type “http://router” (you do not need to type

in anything else such as “www”). Then press the Enter key. If

you’re still having trouble running the manual setup option, type

“192.168.2.1” in your browser (you do not need to type in anything

else such as “http://” or “www”). Then press the Enter key.

Like I also said running any software or router manager usually corrects the issue for some reason when I have not been able to get in with the 192.168.X.X. You run the auto setup feature and then go to your browser and see if you can get into the advanced setting.

We will through this up and sorry if I I covered something you know, but my crystal ball is down today.

Sorry if I got long winded again, but EH, that is how I am and the way it is. Honestly I get way more props for doing this than those who knock props for doing this and again, that is how I am and the way it is. Good luck and hope your router issues are a things of the past.

[delcecchi]

I thought they make switches because you can't have a bunch of routers all connected in series. Or maybe you can if you want to screw around with the ip addresses somehow.

I am not an IT guy, by any means and find your essays quite informative. My work was way lower in the hierarchy than networks. Way down on bare silicon. not bare silicone. So most of the pc stuff is new.