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Building a Fish House


Cowhead

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Well me and three other guys are looking at going in on and building a fish house and putting skis on it so we can drag it down to the river and leave it there for the winter and were looking at building it about 13x 7 any ideas on how to make skis for it and what to build it out of so its light weight and easy to move with a 4 wheeler when the ice isnt good so we dont have a 2500HD out there? so any thoughts and ideas would be great and were looking at doing battery powered lights with marine batteries and what kinda heater should we use?

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Well i will for sure check into the Siding and what do people usually use for the Skids to make em slide nice across the snow?? and well i guess i can figure that out later too but my main concern is what to use for a ventless heater? I want something that doesnt require power or maybe one that will use 12volt with low power consumption I am also looking for the plastic stuff you see in comerical kitchens thats on the walls or in trailer houses for bathrooms that thin plastic sheets i would like to do that on the walls and celing so if anyone knows what its called or where i can pick it up that would be great

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The Pro Rib siding is good stuff. While you are at Menards, check into their FRP (fiberglass reinforced panels). That is the white plastic board you see all over restaurants. For the skids, I had a piece of flat steel made with mounting tabs. On bare ice you could almost push it by hand, with any amount of snow you'll be digging.

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Fleet Farm or Northern have good prices on ProCom ventless heaters. I had a 10k BTU in an 8x12 last year, and it kept it HOT in there. Be sure if you go the ventless route to have a CO detector. I had 2 with digital readouts that never went above 0 PPM.

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well i am thinking i might use some Rectangle steel for the skids and turn them up at the ends and run three the long way down the house and then weld an angle Iron frame and then set that down on top of the skids and then just build my floor and set it into it and then just screw my walls to the studs in the floor unless that isnt going to be sturdy enough. we were thinking about doing 3/4 floor then 2x4 then 1/2in so the floor will be about 4 3/4 thick or we can brace with more angle iron and just do a 2x2 floor. We were thinking about packing the entire thing with foamboad floor walls and celing and then how about a roof do i need to slope it or should i make it flat or what should i do we might load it on the trailer and move it about 140 miles round trip but thats about it for the most part it will be on the river.

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What ever you decide, do not skimp on materials. Changing your skis later is not fun especially if they break off on the lake or wear out fast. If you look at the pics of my hut(2009/2010 ICE SHACK BUILD)you will see big skis. They have steel under them now and it was a big mistake that the guy before me made. I took the shack off of the trailer to get it ready to pull out on to the lake and it froze to the ground. It took two trucks to break it free. I would recomend that you use Teflon or Hyfax under your skis. You can pick up used teflon from skating rinks or hockey rinks. The zamboni (ice cleaning machine) rubs on this strip at the bottom of the boards. Just make sure that you use the smooth side down.

I am adding 9" wide X 1/2" thick strips of teflon under the skis this summer.

Hope this helps.

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Don't buy a Procom ventless! You will regret it. I buddy of mine bought one that had a bad valve, returned it and got one that had broke at the threads when he was installing the gas line because it was made very cheap. Brought that one back and got another one that he had to be very carefull puting on the gas line because it just about cracked again. He did use it last year and he had to crack the windows all season because it was hard to control the heat. You can't get ahold a anyone with there customer service because they are made overseas. This year he's upgrading to a direct vent. He learned the hard way trying to save a buck.

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to warm up my dream shak initially, i use a big buddy, i think a buddy is a great heater. could use it all the time with a 20lb tank on it if need b, shak is 16x8 and keeps it 70deg on low i like it! cause if your gonna leave the shack on lake take heater with when leave or lose your heater!

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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