Arctic Cat 600 ZL problem..

[Jordyn Kaufer]

When I start the ZL, the idle is too low because when I press on the throttle the engine cuts out. If someone hold up the back so the track is free, it spins when it starts and i think thats what the problem is but is it the clutch that is doing this? Or what can I do to solve this problem???? After it gets warmed up its ok but its a pain!!!!

Thanks,

Jordyn

[witgey&water]

Is it EFI or carbs? If it is carbs are they clean? If it is EFI and you do lift the track and spin it does the primary clutch go from small to big and the secondary go from big to small in diameter.

[barebackjack]

There is a pin that is under your kill switch that when the throttle is released will enable it to idle, common issue for these to break off apparently as I have heard ALOT of this lately elsewhere. Might be the cause.

[Surface Tension]

Could be your not letting it warm up.

[Jordyn Kaufer]

Surface tension,

it wont warm up, it will just die out if i wait for it to warm up.. and it is an EFI not carbs, and yes the clutch does change.

barebackjack- whats this pin deal your talking about??

Thanks

[Jordyn Kaufer]

Side note: once the sled has been running/warmed up its fine. Just starting it is the big problem

[Surface Tension]

So your saying the track will spin when you lift up the sled and no one is giving it throttle?

If so.

You have the wrong belt.

The primary clutch is stuck.

The secondary clutch has been "shimmed" to a belt different then the one you have on.

That leads into belt deflection. One way or another there is a way to adjust for belt wear. Either by adding shims or a mechanical adjustment to the secondary (driven) clutch.

[barebackjack]

http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/ArcticCat_OEM/ArcticcatSnow.asp?Type=13&A=347&B=20

This is just a diagram, look for the throttle switch part #26, that MIGHT be your culprit. Im not a mechanic, just happened to hear of this issue so I would consult a mechanic about this issue rather than taking my advice.

[Macgyver55]

On the more unlikely side, a possible loose or broken motor plate/mount.

[Jordyn Kaufer]

I'm almost one hundred percent confident that it's somethig with the clutch/belt

[Macgyver55]

Thats why I said unlikely. But if belt alignment is the issue it is a possibility. Frank has already covered the most likely possibilities.

[Jordyn Kaufer]

Ok thanks Macgyver!!!! I think my dad was going to check to see if the right belt is on there and possibly pick one up before i get home from school! Thanks errr body

[norm]

check the spring in your drive clutch (the one on the motor) and make sure its not broken

[redtrucks]

This comes from a Arctic Cat HSOforum:

This topic has come up more times this year than I can count so I thought I'd pin this for you guys. I've experienced this problem firsthand with mine and my buddies 99 ZR500 EFI as many of you have. You'll be going low to mid throttle and either punch it or slowly back off and the sled will just BOG or feel like you hit the kill switch. The very first thing to do is eliminate the THROTTLE SAFETY SWITCH when troubleshooting. What is happening is now that these sleds (1997-newer) are getting some mileage and age, the bushings, switch, and throttle lever assy. are wearing out/becoming sloppy. The switch activates and shuts down the sled-just like if you hit the kill switch. There are a couple of fixes for this.

#1. Unplug the TSS/Kill switch harness altogether and just run with a tether or key switch. If you remove your handlebar cover and foam, it is the 3 wire harness coming from the RH throttle block. Just unplug and go. (Disclaimer-While I've ran with mine unplugged on my ZR, I DO NOT ADVOCATE disabling a safety system!! Like I said earlier-this is for "TROUBLESHOOTING" )

#2. Replace the white bushings for the throttle lever. This is a temporary fix, as it's only going to happen again........and probably soon.

#3. Replace the whole throttle block assembly. Hey, if that little safety switch is that big of a deal to you- go right ahead! It costs right around $75 bucks.

#4. This is a tip from one of our members, once you unplug that 3 wire harness, take a piece of heat shrink tubing and put it over the MIDDLE pin of that plug. This will eliminate the TSS, but you will still have the use of your kill switch.

(Disclaimer-Again, this is for "troubleshooting" purposes ONLY......wink, wink!)

[Jordyn Kaufer]

Thanks redtrucks.. I'm still positavr thought that it is the belt but I will take all of this into consideration.. It's not that it bogs down or dies when I run it. Just getting it started when it's cold is hard sometimes. We also found that the clutch wasN't releasing all the way back down so some WD-40 fixed that